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#9 |
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The Redneck James Bond
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Fayetteville NC
Posts: 1,707
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Here are a few key areas to look at on the First Gen Mustangs.
1. Front Unibody Extensions (Frame Rails). 2. Shock Towers. (Check for cracks and repairs. Shock towers should be bolted. If you see Welds. STAY AWAY.) 3. Rear Frame Rails (Check closely the areas where the gas tank mounts.) 4. Body seems that run inbetween the rear window and trunk. 5. Lower parts of the doors (They usually rust bad, but thats easly replaced) 6. Roof Line, make sure it blends with the rear quarters right. Floorpans arent neccassarily any indication of a rotted car. If you cowl leaks, you'll get floorpan rust. If your front windshield leaks, you'll also get floorpan rust. Floor pans are relatively cheap to repair/replace. A rusted cowl is expensive to fix, but is quit common with the first gen cars. Dont forget, these cars have been around for35-37 years, Alot of them will have imperfections. Most important concerns for buying an old car is 1. Structural Intergrity (Sound Unibody and roof, Shock Towers.) 2. Body. 3. Cosmetic apperance, interior and extior. Thats the list of priorties I go buy when looking for a car to restore, or rod.
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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. Red Baron, 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. Stage 2 CNC heads with Large Valves, Comp Cams (270-274 dur .550 lift), Forged Crank, DRP pistons, Manly H-beams, Pro M 87 mm Mass Air, 24lb Inj, 75mm TB, Plenum Spacer ,Long Tube Headers, Homemade H-pipe, 2 chamber Flows, 4:10's, Steeda Tri-Ax, LKW 70/30's, Eibach Drag Springs, Steeda SubFrames, Battle Boxes, Rear Girdle, Adj uppers, Alunimum Drshft, Southside Lift Bars. Project Cars, 64 1/2 6cyl coupe, 1930 Model A Nostalgia Rod. |
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