I think I might have screwed up.

Fulcrum · 07-08-2004, 11:59 PM

OK, stupid move on my part accepted. I dropped the engine.

Recently, I came across a garage sale and found an assembled '85 5.0 short block bored .030 over and turned .010 under on the crank. Pretty much what I thought I was going to do with my '79 5.0, but already done, and seemingly more cost effective at $200.00. In my enthusiasum I bought it right then and there. The block is obviously bored over, the pistons are marked .030, I recognize it as a 302/5.0 block, and I am told the rods are reconditioned and the cam is stock. The Timing chain looks new, so far I think I am pleased and I feel it is ok. That is until I tried to move it. It took two of us to put it in the bed of my truck. Between us I thought it was heavy but manageable. Then I get to my place.
At my place, I am alone. Trying to think this thru, I put two 2x8's, 8' ft long each, side by side, and begin to walk the block down, when about halfway the boards separated and the engine went between the boards landing (I think) square on the rear main on my concrete drive, after falling maybe about 18".

Being, I don't think this is the best way to treat an engine, just what would be the best course of action from here.

God, I feel dumb.

Coupe Devil · 07-09-2004, 03:46 AM

Does it have a pan on it? If so take the pan off, check the rods and check the main caps and bolts.. maybe check the crank while your in there. Make sure it didnt crack. If all that looks ok I say run it.

Fulcrum · 07-09-2004, 09:01 AM

It dosn't have a pan and I don't see anything obvious. I guess I'm more concerned with the rear seal having been mashed by the impact or maybe the crank being knocked out of alignment.
I have worked on a few engines in the past but I've never taken apart or re-assembled the block before, I've always just taken them and swaped them out and going from there.
I've been reading, and I think I could do it being there are no time constraints on this project. Do you think it would be prudent or would it be a waste of time to take it apart and reassemble it? If I do take it apart should I have it checked out by a machine shop?
I have a different cam that I wanted to use anyway, besides if it is a stock '85 cam, wouldn't that be a roller cam, and just how could I verify that.

tireburner163 · 07-09-2004, 05:59 PM

Just brush the dust off of it and inspect it closely. It's probably fine. It only fell a foot and a half.

-Josh, aka the tireburner

Crazy Horse GT · 07-09-2004, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tireburner163
Just brush the dust off of it and inspect it closely. It's probably fine. It only fell a foot and a half.

-Josh, aka the tireburner

bwahaha, the king of screw up's really know's his stuff, lol, hey josh, need to see my 10-1/2 black bullit's, with 315-35 zr 17's on back of my vert.

, skinny's up front!

tireburner163 · 07-10-2004, 01:09 AM

Marty, I don't really see how that is gonna happen because I'll never see the back of it

..................I'll tell you how the front looks though

-Josh, aka the tireburner

LX5liter · 07-12-2004, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fulcrum
It dosn't have a pan and I don't see anything obvious. I guess I'm more concerned with the rear seal having been mashed by the impact or maybe the crank being knocked out of alignment.
I have worked on a few engines in the past but I've never taken apart or re-assembled the block before, I've always just taken them and swaped them out and going from there.
I've been reading, and I think I could do it being there are no time constraints on this project. Do you think it would be prudent or would it be a waste of time to take it apart and reassemble it? If I do take it apart should I have it checked out by a machine shop?
I have a different cam that I wanted to use anyway, besides if it is a stock '85 cam, wouldn't that be a roller cam, and just how could I verify that.

Take the main and rod caps that were impacted off and plasti-gauge them to see if the bearings were crushed, and inspect the caps closely to make sure thet weren't cracked by the impact.

Rev · 07-13-2004, 03:27 PM

Turn the crank slowly from the snout with a ratchet and check for any resistance. Spark plugs out of course. The rotating assembly should rotate smoothly and with little resistance. If not, then do as LX5liter suggested and start looking at clearances.

Rev

07-08-2004, 11:59 PM	#1
Fulcrum Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Farmers Branch, Tx Posts: 46	I think I might have screwed up. OK, stupid move on my part accepted. I dropped the engine. Recently, I came across a garage sale and found an assembled '85 5.0 short block bored .030 over and turned .010 under on the crank. Pretty much what I thought I was going to do with my '79 5.0, but already done, and seemingly more cost effective at $200.00. In my enthusiasum I bought it right then and there. The block is obviously bored over, the pistons are marked .030, I recognize it as a 302/5.0 block, and I am told the rods are reconditioned and the cam is stock. The Timing chain looks new, so far I think I am pleased and I feel it is ok. That is until I tried to move it. It took two of us to put it in the bed of my truck. Between us I thought it was heavy but manageable. Then I get to my place. At my place, I am alone. Trying to think this thru, I put two 2x8's, 8' ft long each, side by side, and begin to walk the block down, when about halfway the boards separated and the engine went between the boards landing (I think) square on the rear main on my concrete drive, after falling maybe about 18". Being, I don't think this is the best way to treat an engine, just what would be the best course of action from here. God, I feel dumb. __________________ '79 5.0 Mustang LX Hatchback Garage Queen - work in progress. Bored .030. Roush 180 heads, milled .010, ported & polished. Manley RaceMaster Valves. Doug Herbert cam CF4N. Crane Roller rockers

07-09-2004, 03:46 AM	#2
Coupe Devil Moderator Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Myrtle Beach SC Posts: 1,643	Does it have a pan on it? If so take the pan off, check the rods and check the main caps and bolts.. maybe check the crank while your in there. Make sure it didnt crack. If all that looks ok I say run it. __________________ 1990 GT, 347, TFS TW Heads, TFS Cam, TFS Track heat, Twin turbos, FMIC, T5. Built Ford Tough Moderator

07-09-2004, 09:01 AM	#3
Fulcrum Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Farmers Branch, Tx Posts: 46	It dosn't have a pan and I don't see anything obvious. I guess I'm more concerned with the rear seal having been mashed by the impact or maybe the crank being knocked out of alignment. I have worked on a few engines in the past but I've never taken apart or re-assembled the block before, I've always just taken them and swaped them out and going from there. I've been reading, and I think I could do it being there are no time constraints on this project. Do you think it would be prudent or would it be a waste of time to take it apart and reassemble it? If I do take it apart should I have it checked out by a machine shop? I have a different cam that I wanted to use anyway, besides if it is a stock '85 cam, wouldn't that be a roller cam, and just how could I verify that. __________________ '79 5.0 Mustang LX Hatchback Garage Queen - work in progress. Bored .030. Roush 180 heads, milled .010, ported & polished. Manley RaceMaster Valves. Doug Herbert cam CF4N. Crane Roller rockers

07-09-2004, 05:59 PM	#4
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	Just brush the dust off of it and inspect it closely. It's probably fine. It only fell a foot and a half. -Josh, aka the tireburner __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

07-10-2004, 01:09 AM	#6
tireburner163 It's a lot like a race car Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Meridian, MS Posts: 4,130	Marty, I don't really see how that is gonna happen because I'll never see the back of it..................I'll tell you how the front looks though -Josh, aka the tireburner __________________ 1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide

07-13-2004, 03:27 PM	#8
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	No resistance Turn the crank slowly from the snout with a ratchet and check for any resistance. Spark plugs out of course. The rotating assembly should rotate smoothly and with little resistance. If not, then do as LX5liter suggested and start looking at clearances. Rev __________________ '66 Coupe, 306, 350-375 HP, C-4, 13.07 e.t., 104.8 mph, 1/4 mi. O.B.C. #2 '66 coupe

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