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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2
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![]() Hey all ... I am new to this message board and not real sure how it all works but here goes. I live in South-Western Ontario, Canada and as you guys have heard .. we get some snow. Anyone offer some advice on the best way to store my mustang. Its a 2003 silver GT, not that that matters. I have a garage and would like to keep it there. Just wondering if it needs to go on a tarp and plywood, and if it should be on jackstands and how often I should start it, and all that jazz. Any help you guys could give would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Pigeon Forge Tn
Posts: 611
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![]() Well off the top of my head:
Jackstands are a good idea, keep the flat spots away. Damp-rid or equivalent in the interior to control moisture/mildew. I've heard that dryer sheets in the interior will keep rodents away (havent tried it yet) Fuel stabilizer:Good I've heard that you should pull the battery, but I would probibly leave it in, and just make sure to run her for 10-20 min a week,or every few days, both for charging and keeping the engine up (make sure the garage door is open for the fumes! ![]() Other than that, ??? I'm new to this winter storage game myself. J
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____________ '66 Mustang Coupe- AKA "Lenore" *on disability for a (long) bit* '93 GT Mostly stock AKA "Fawkes" Rice Haters Club Member #239 "I find your lack of faith...disturbing." "Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats." H. L. Mencken |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2
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![]() I have heard that running it weekly can cause moisture to build up in the exhaust and can potentially cause problems ... what do you think??
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#4 |
Factoy Five Roadster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
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![]() If its stored outside the moisture will build up in the exhaust. Inside is not much of a problem.
***I would seriously look into a pre-oiler. This will oil the motor before you crank it. Cranking a motor causes the most damage. Oil drips off the bearings after awhile. Synthetec oil will lay longer than regular oil. And with the mod motors pre-oiling is even more nessesary. If you put it on jack stands. Put them under the frame to take the weight off of the suspension. The tire won't need to be off the ground but it will give them relief too. If it sits for a looooong time You may want to dangle the wheels so you can put the car in gear and turn everything to keep the tranny/rear oiled. Also what J says.
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Frank |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 950
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![]() block off your exhaust and intake too, squirels and mice love cars. Put out rat poison.
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#6 |
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Livonia, MI, USA
Posts: 1,194
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![]() Raise car BY SYSPENSION. This still raises the car off the tires, but the struts/shock shafts are not left dangling at full travel. The shafts of the shocks are not exposed to the elements either.
Raise the car as high as you can. The moisture is more closer to the ground (like fog). If you have the car indoors, then lay newspaper under the cr, and place a sheet of plastic over the newspaper. The paper soaks up the cement "sweat" and the plastic keeps it off the car. Stabil is fine. DONT stat your car once a week. The moisture is worse for exhaust. If you must, start it on a warmer day, once every few months. Let it run for a Loooooooong time, like 20 MINUTES. Make sure the exhaust tip is hot to the touch. Then the loisture in the exhaust will evaporate. Battery trickle charge once every 30 days is enough. Thats about it for now.
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Darius Rudis, Moderator Corner Carvers Delight 1989 Mustang LX - Open Track Car http://www.dariusrudis.com |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Mountaintop, PA
Posts: 634
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![]() How long we talking here? A few months in the garage is really nothing. I start mine up when I just want to hear it rumble. I leave it under a cover and that's about it. I throw some fuel treatment in the tank to prevent it from freezing, though.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
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#8 |
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,001
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![]() I usually do this for the winter months for my own ride:
1. Fill the tank with Stabil and gasoline 2. Put the car up on blocks by the suspension so (as Darius said) it's not all dangling by the struts and shocks. 3. Remove the spark plugs and put 1-2 tablespoons' worth of SAE 30 oil into each cylinder, then put the plugs back in. 4. Use rat poison. Lots of it. Like it's going out of style tomorrow. 5. Put some silicone spray onto a paper towel, and put a nice coating of silicone onto the weather seals, especially around the doors. This will keep the seals pliable and will keep moisture from building there and freezing. 6. Remove the battery, just in case something decides to short out. 7. Be sure the antifreeze/water mixture is correct for your climate, and that it is up to the proper level. I use 50/50 and have had no problems whatsoever. This is the recommended mixture for most vehicles in North America. That's all I have, and hope this helps. ![]()
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Capri306, Moderator The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri 1987 5.0L Mustang LX Notchback 1993 5.8L Eddie Bauer Bronco ![]() |
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#9 |
Rat Killer
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Cold ass Ohio
Posts: 1,143
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![]() Couple threads on that, one from my site:
http://www.knights-rule.com/cgi/ikon...t=ST;f=13;t=16 One from here: http://forums.mustangworks.com/showt...hlight=storage
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d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply..... ![]() |
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