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Old 03-21-2001, 12:45 PM   #1
GONZO99TA
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Question quick ? on 96 mustang gt

i seen a 96 mustang gt for sale around here and was going to go look at it for my wife to drive. they are asking $8990 for it. not sure of options or anything because i did not stop to see it yet.
so what options were available this year and what was standard? stock hp? what gears were avail w/5spd and auto? anything parrticular trouble spots i should look for?
thanks for the help!

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99 30th annv. Trans am
79 Trans am black se
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Old 03-21-2001, 01:47 PM   #2
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Well, I don't have all the answers but here's a bit of info. I'm not sure what the standard options were but they are probably close to mine. My GT has leather wrapped steering wheel, driving lights, power driver's seat, cruise control, air conditioning, Mach 460 with CD and cassette. Keyless entry, alarm, and leather seats were an option as well. Stock HP is 215 with like 285 lb/ft torque (not a real monster but decent enough for a daily driver). My 5 speed has stock 2:73's with 3:27's being an option. I'm not sure about the auto's gearing. I haven't had any problems with mine yet (going on two years of ownership) but like other Stangs of the time it has a defective intake. It's a plastic piece that Ford will replace only after it blows. I could always use more power but other than that I love it to death. Hope this helps shed a little light.

---almost forgot--- 16inch rims and spoiler for the GT with 17inch rims available

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66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe
Laser Red 96GT Ragtop
30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!

[This message has been edited by Stefan (edited 03-21-2001).]
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Old 03-21-2001, 07:48 PM   #3
GONZO99TA
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alright i went and took a look at it. looks pretty good. it is a 5spd with power windows, locks, mirrors, after market pioneer cd player, 17" wheels and a power lumbar adj for the seat, but not a true power seat. the car has 43000 miles and seems to run out ok. it does need an alignment though. i was thinking of offering the guy like $5500. too low?
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Old 03-21-2001, 09:53 PM   #4
Unit 5302
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That car probably books at about $11k.

$5500 is pretty hard undercutting. It's priced damn good where it's at.
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Old 03-21-2001, 10:09 PM   #5
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Oops, forgot about the power locks, mirrors, and windows. I paid $14,400 for mine (convertible) in '99 and back then it booked around $17,000. $5,500 might be a little low for an offer - especially with good mileage like that. Check out www.KBB.com and plug in some numbers. If it hasn't been beat to death $8990 is probably closer to the mark. Anyway good luck. Check hard to make sure it has a clean title and hasn't been wrecked. Auction cars aren't uncommon.

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30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!
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Old 03-22-2001, 12:12 AM   #6
Unit 5302
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DO NOT use Kelly Blue Book for negotiations.

Use the NADA website.
http://www2.nadaguides.com/GlobalFra...=SendModelInfo

According to that link the car's NADA blue book is $12,675 average retail, $10,650 trade in. $8990 is a damn good deal.

If I was in the market right now, and I saw that car independantly of this post, I'd already have bought it, dude.
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Old 03-22-2001, 10:57 AM   #7
GONZO99TA
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looking back over my previous post i forgot to mention the car has been in a wreck. that is the reason for the low ball offer. it got a new front bumber and roof skin. none of the original glass except for front windshield were damaged. airbags did not deploy. i'm not opposed to buying a car with a salvage title for the right price.
it would turn into a summer daily driver for my wife (she has a blazer for any bad weather) and possibly a future project for me to autocross on the weekends. kbb or nada are starting points, but neither will give value for this type of situation.
alot of members on here could rebuild a mustang in their sleep so mainly i was looking for opinions on what to watch for in this car. i would take it to a local body shop and have them check the underside for straightness of course. any other suggestions?

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Old 03-22-2001, 12:56 PM   #8
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If it's been wrecked you definately have more bargaining room. Sounds like you're on the right track with having a body shop check it out. Keep us posted.

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30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!
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Old 03-22-2001, 01:12 PM   #9
Unit 5302
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Check the door to roof alignment.

It should be smooth and consistantly small all along the window frame to roof.

It it had a new roof put on it's integrity is probably not as good as what it should be.

The car has a Salvage title? Hmmm... I don't really like that. With the cars retail value, the damage must have been to or exceeding $10,000. I can't see how the airbags didn't deploy on a $10,000 accident. Anyway, you said it really needs an alignment? Any reputable body shop would have given it an alignment when it was on the rack being straightened, which worries me that the K member, or A-arms or other suspension components may be damaged or bent.

Definately get it checked out by the Ford dealer in my opinion.

Costs are higher, but if the car checks out, the price will still be way good, and if it doesn't you're probably saving yourself miles of headaches, or at least giving yourself more room to bargain.
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Old 03-22-2001, 01:26 PM   #10
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My personal feeling is that I would never put my g/f or wife in a car with a salvage title. There are too many sad stories about people dying in these cars that they actually bought from dealers who passed them off as "just like new." Be careful, also check the torgue boxes basically beneath the seats (under car) as these get all twisted up when a car has been beat on. All in all, take a good look around underneath. Look for how the panels line up, paint overspray and just sloppy work. Good luck.

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(Upcoming mods: subframes (bought), Bassani X (next), & FMS 3.73s
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Old 03-22-2001, 03:26 PM   #11
red82gt
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As long as its straight I wouldn't fret about the salvage title. My 82 is a rebuild and the guy at the shop that does my alignments comments about how my car is one of the few fox mustangs that aligns to spec without caster/camber plates and also holds an alignment (even with eibach sportline springs), the subframes, torque box fix, etc... help, but the quality of body shops is getting better (although there are still a few hacks out there).

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GT-40 heads (ported, polished, + milled), B303 cam, 1.7rr's, JE pistons, Offy intake, Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Flowtech 1 5/8" shortys, Flowtech X-pipe, MAC Flowpath exhaust, MAC pulleys, 373's, subframes, Eibachs+Tokicos, B+M ripper, FMS Clutch, Zoom Quadrant+cable, 17" CSA Ultra rims, 235/45ZR17 Yokohama AVS S4's, MSD 6A ignition+coil, FMS 9mm wires, Carbed, Naturally Aspirated, and Nasty!
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