Coolant Problems

Kisner · 08-15-2001, 10:52 AM

I just restored my 68's heater box assembly. My problem is when I hooked everything back up and filled the radiator with coolant, it appears it's not circulating. The shop manual says it should hold 14.7 quarts. Before I cranked it, I know I probably only added half that at most. I expected that once I cranked it, it would go way down as it filled up the block and heater core. After I let it run 10 minutes (3 different times), it hasn't budged. Could my water pump or thermostat have gone bad? How can I tell? For the past 2 months, the fan's been making a squeeling noise when I initially crank it, but it goes away after the engine warms up. I chalked it up to one of the belts being loose - just haven't got around to it yet. However, both belts feel right when I test the tension with my finger (I can push them down about a half inch).

Clark Rodgers · 08-15-2001, 01:48 PM

Kisner,
I would take off the radiator cap and start the engine, when the engine warms up the thermostat should open and then you will see the water flowing through the radiator. If not then the thermostat or water pump is not working.

As far as the heater goes just turn on the heat you should be blowing hot air out the vents if the water is circulating through the heater core.

Just try tightening the belts to see if the squeal goes away.

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

Gearhead999 · 08-15-2001, 07:34 PM

Does it overheat?? If it doesn't, then it is circulating. When you put the thermostate in, did you install it will the coil part toward the intake?? Did you have the heads off?? Did you put the headgaskets on the right way??

Lots of questions....

When you put a new thermostate in drill a 1/8" hole in the plate to allow it to bleed without opening.

thunderbolt · 08-15-2001, 09:34 PM

As Mr. Rogers said, take the radiator cap off. Start the engine. Wait until fluid starts to circulate. Until the engine warms up and opens the thermostat, it won't circulate. To fill the engine first, take the thermostat housing loose and pour fluid directly into the engine. This is what I would do, then follow the above procedure.

Kisner · 08-16-2001, 02:25 PM

Thanks for all the tips - great advice for a novice like me. I did decide to just go ahead and replace the thermostat. I took it off last night (what a chore to get the right-hand bolt out - couldn't hardly get a wrency in there). When I took the old one out, it was wide open. I'm going to replace it anyway, but isn't it defective. Shouldn't it be closed until it heats up? It's also a 160. Autozone says a 195 should be in my HP 302? Not sure what the difference is unless the stronger engines are not supposed to open up until they reach a hotter temperature. Guess I also didn't realize some coolant remains in the block when you drain the radiator. Found out when it came running out when I pulled the water neck off (what a mess on my garage floor - learn something new every day). P.S. nope I haven't had the heads off and it's never ran hot. But it hasn't been on the road in 7 years. The rebuilt engine (1994) has less than 50 miles on it. Father in-law bought it in 94, had motor rebuilt, gave it to a friend who stripped it down, promised to restore it, never did, and took close to $5,000 of father-in-law's money. He died 2 years ago, I inherited it, took it back from so-called friend, and have been trying to restore it back to only a daily driver ever since. Aside from the engine which appears to be in great shape and no leaks or signs of any dried out seals, had to replace most everything else, i.e., gas tank, radiator, batter, alternator, fuel lines, exhaust, manifolds, all power steering components, etc.,etc.,etc. It was probably worth more dead than alive when I got it. The good part is it had virtually no rust anywhere and the original floor pans were in great shape. But I'll have double the $ it'll be worth when I'm done. Due to sentimental value and my quest to restore it, I couldn't dare part with it. Sorry for the long reply.

08-15-2001, 10:52 AM	#1
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Coolant Problems I just restored my 68's heater box assembly. My problem is when I hooked everything back up and filled the radiator with coolant, it appears it's not circulating. The shop manual says it should hold 14.7 quarts. Before I cranked it, I know I probably only added half that at most. I expected that once I cranked it, it would go way down as it filled up the block and heater core. After I let it run 10 minutes (3 different times), it hasn't budged. Could my water pump or thermostat have gone bad? How can I tell? For the past 2 months, the fan's been making a squeeling noise when I initially crank it, but it goes away after the engine warms up. I chalked it up to one of the belts being loose - just haven't got around to it yet. However, both belts feel right when I test the tension with my finger (I can push them down about a half inch).

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08-15-2001, 01:48 PM	#2
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	Kisner, I would take off the radiator cap and start the engine, when the engine warms up the thermostat should open and then you will see the water flowing through the radiator. If not then the thermostat or water pump is not working. As far as the heater goes just turn on the heat you should be blowing hot air out the vents if the water is circulating through the heater core. Just try tightening the belts to see if the squeal goes away. ------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

08-15-2001, 07:34 PM	#3
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	Does it overheat?? If it doesn't, then it is circulating. When you put the thermostate in, did you install it will the coil part toward the intake?? Did you have the heads off?? Did you put the headgaskets on the right way?? Lots of questions.... When you put a new thermostate in drill a 1/8" hole in the plate to allow it to bleed without opening.

08-15-2001, 09:34 PM	#4
thunderbolt Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 380	As Mr. Rogers said, take the radiator cap off. Start the engine. Wait until fluid starts to circulate. Until the engine warms up and opens the thermostat, it won't circulate. To fill the engine first, take the thermostat housing loose and pour fluid directly into the engine. This is what I would do, then follow the above procedure.

08-16-2001, 02:25 PM	#5
Kisner Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Posts: 290	Thanks for all the tips - great advice for a novice like me. I did decide to just go ahead and replace the thermostat. I took it off last night (what a chore to get the right-hand bolt out - couldn't hardly get a wrency in there). When I took the old one out, it was wide open. I'm going to replace it anyway, but isn't it defective. Shouldn't it be closed until it heats up? It's also a 160. Autozone says a 195 should be in my HP 302? Not sure what the difference is unless the stronger engines are not supposed to open up until they reach a hotter temperature. Guess I also didn't realize some coolant remains in the block when you drain the radiator. Found out when it came running out when I pulled the water neck off (what a mess on my garage floor - learn something new every day). P.S. nope I haven't had the heads off and it's never ran hot. But it hasn't been on the road in 7 years. The rebuilt engine (1994) has less than 50 miles on it. Father in-law bought it in 94, had motor rebuilt, gave it to a friend who stripped it down, promised to restore it, never did, and took close to $5,000 of father-in-law's money. He died 2 years ago, I inherited it, took it back from so-called friend, and have been trying to restore it back to only a daily driver ever since. Aside from the engine which appears to be in great shape and no leaks or signs of any dried out seals, had to replace most everything else, i.e., gas tank, radiator, batter, alternator, fuel lines, exhaust, manifolds, all power steering components, etc.,etc.,etc. It was probably worth more dead than alive when I got it. The good part is it had virtually no rust anywhere and the original floor pans were in great shape. But I'll have double the $ it'll be worth when I'm done. Due to sentimental value and my quest to restore it, I couldn't dare part with it. Sorry for the long reply.