Need advise!

topless tire fryer · 07-08-2001, 11:04 AM

So I line up next to what looks like a bone stock Eclipse last night at a light and proceed to get my a** handed to me by him. He beat me by a mile of the light (gf called on cell, distracted me), but I still should have caught him way quicker then I did. I've got a '95 GT convertable with a auto, K&N filter charger system, Accel plugs, wires and distubuter and a Flowmaster cat back system. My question is what should I do first to improve my off the line performance, gears or a chip?

Jeff7477 · 07-08-2001, 11:15 AM

Gears! 4.10's for your heavier SN95 'vert if you can handle a bit less MPG. 3.73's otherwise.

------------------
Black '90 GT. Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back.

cad614 · 07-08-2001, 11:57 AM

I know the feeling! It's tough having these "slow" cars, luckily I haven't been challenged in awhile so I've been free to make it look good rather than go fast. I'm almost done with that though... so I'm going shopping for parts in the next couple of months.

------------------
'95 GT Convertable

dinomite · 07-08-2001, 12:55 PM

3.73 gears. same problem that i have heavy (convertible) bad gearing (aod). i don't know why ford even sold those two in the same package, it makes for an extremely slow car.

topless tire fryer · 07-09-2001, 02:55 PM

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm hoping to have enough jing to swing both the gears and the chip, but if not I'll do the gears first. I heard that 3.73 could cause problems with the AOD though, should I stick with 3.55?

------------------
'95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires.

90dpscoupe · 07-09-2001, 11:54 PM

nooooooo, just get the 4.10's you'll be glad when your seeing the eclipse in the rearview, now, you also may want to improve the shifting of your aod too, ahh hel1, just do a t-5 conversion. lots $$ though, get some subframes connctrs too.

ed1371 · 07-10-2001, 12:31 AM

I have always been advised that a chip doesn't help unless the motor has been considerably modded...(cam, intake, heads)

-ed

------------------
My Mustang
91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter,King Cobra clutch, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA: shorties,subs,strut tower brc, Comp eng. 6 point cage, dynomax 2 1/2" exhaust, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC cold air kit, off road h pipe.

Fox Body · 07-10-2001, 02:30 AM

That Eclipse must've been a GS-T (or better). It wasn't no stock GS or RS (unless something's wrong with your car or you completely suck at racing--which I doubt).

Go with the 3.73s.

-----------------------------------------
351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback
Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit
Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft
2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters
Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II
Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s
14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday)

"Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body

[This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 07-10-2001).]

HiFlow5 0 · 07-10-2001, 06:51 AM

ok u have a vert and its a auto, so thats against u from the start. 4.10's might be too low of a gear for highway driving, and gas will suffer. i've always been told that 3.73's are a good all round gear for auto's that are daily driven. throw a shift kit in that tranny and that will help a too. as for a chip it might not be worth it for a few horse's, spend a little more and get a NOS kit. i'm sure you'll feel the difference in that NOS rather then a chip. oh get sub frames for the vert!!

------------------
Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, custom interior

topless tire fryer · 07-10-2001, 02:54 PM

My buddy who was with me felt the need to remind me the stock looking Eclips got 3 gears of rubber while beating me, so I feel a little better. I think I'll take the 3.73's, and then the NOS.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

------------------
'95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires.

07-10-2001, 04:26 PM

Don't bother wasting your $$$ on a chip at this stage of your mods (unless you have $300 to give away, but then, jst send it to me

) The 3.73's will help you BIG TIME. And the N2O.....well, that'll just be the icing on the cake.

------------------
'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

#1 Pony · 07-11-2001, 01:37 AM

QUESTION.
What are sub frames for a convert, and what do they help do?

stevstum · 07-11-2001, 10:01 AM

I would do a gear swap and 3000 stall torqe converter and shitft improver kit. Then a 100 shot of NOS.

------------------
Steve Stumbaugh

89 LX 5.0 5sp.
Removed air silencer
Motorcraft 8mm wires
Autolite platinum plugs
BBK O/R h-pipe

ed1371 · 07-11-2001, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by #1 Pony:
QUESTION.
What are sub frames for a convert, and what do they help do?

Subframe connectors aren't just for 'verts but imho, the vert benefits more than any other stang. They are usually boxed or tubular steel that are welded onto your chasis. What they do is make it a LOT stiffer and reduce flex. If you have a convertable, it's like night and day.
Cost is usually 200 installed, this can go up or down depending on the kind you get.
If I had a stock vert, the first mod I would do to it would be subframes.

07-11-2001, 01:33 PM

Subs are a MUST for every Stang - right up there w/ gears!

------------------
'90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts);
30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

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07-08-2001, 11:04 AM	#1
topless tire fryer All show, some go 4 now! Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Franklin, NH Posts: 175	Need advise! So I line up next to what looks like a bone stock Eclipse last night at a light and proceed to get my a** handed to me by him. He beat me by a mile of the light (gf called on cell, distracted me), but I still should have caught him way quicker then I did. I've got a '95 GT convertable with a auto, K&N filter charger system, Accel plugs, wires and distubuter and a Flowmaster cat back system. My question is what should I do first to improve my off the line performance, gears or a chip?

07-08-2001, 11:15 AM	#2
Jeff7477 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska USA Posts: 67	Gears! 4.10's for your heavier SN95 'vert if you can handle a bit less MPG. 3.73's otherwise. ------------------ Black '90 GT. Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back.

07-08-2001, 11:57 AM	#3
cad614 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: San Angelo, TX Posts: 377	I know the feeling! It's tough having these "slow" cars, luckily I haven't been challenged in awhile so I've been free to make it look good rather than go fast. I'm almost done with that though... so I'm going shopping for parts in the next couple of months. ------------------ '95 GT Convertable

07-08-2001, 12:55 PM	#4
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	3.73 gears. same problem that i have heavy (convertible) bad gearing (aod). i don't know why ford even sold those two in the same package, it makes for an extremely slow car.

07-09-2001, 02:55 PM	#5
topless tire fryer All show, some go 4 now! Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Franklin, NH Posts: 175	Thanks for the advice guys. I'm hoping to have enough jing to swing both the gears and the chip, but if not I'll do the gears first. I heard that 3.73 could cause problems with the AOD though, should I stick with 3.55? ------------------ '95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires.

07-09-2001, 11:54 PM	#6
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	nooooooo, just get the 4.10's you'll be glad when your seeing the eclipse in the rearview, now, you also may want to improve the shifting of your aod too, ahh hel1, just do a t-5 conversion. lots $$ though, get some subframes connctrs too.

07-10-2001, 12:31 AM	#7
ed1371 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 469	I have always been advised that a chip doesn't help unless the motor has been considerably modded...(cam, intake, heads) -ed ------------------ My Mustang 91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter,King Cobra clutch, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA: shorties,subs,strut tower brc, Comp eng. 6 point cage, dynomax 2 1/2" exhaust, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC cold air kit, off road h pipe.

07-10-2001, 02:30 AM	#8
Fox Body Mustang Maniac Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: GA, U.S.A Posts: 2,266	That Eclipse must've been a GS-T (or better). It wasn't no stock GS or RS (unless something's wrong with your car or you completely suck at racing--which I doubt). Go with the 3.73s. ----------------------------------------- 351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang notchback Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl, C4 w/ shift kit Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, Al driveshaft 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 255/60/15 Eagle GT II Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s 14 x 4” K&N air filter (getting the Xtreme setup someday) "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body [This message has been edited by Fox Body (edited 07-10-2001).]

07-10-2001, 06:51 AM	#9
HiFlow5 0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Springfield, Ma, usa Posts: 706	ok u have a vert and its a auto, so thats against u from the start. 4.10's might be too low of a gear for highway driving, and gas will suffer. i've always been told that 3.73's are a good all round gear for auto's that are daily driven. throw a shift kit in that tranny and that will help a too. as for a chip it might not be worth it for a few horse's, spend a little more and get a NOS kit. i'm sure you'll feel the difference in that NOS rather then a chip. oh get sub frames for the vert!! ------------------ Trickflow intake, Crane (E-type) cam, 70Tb, 75MAF, 1.6 Rockers, Pulleys, MAC headers and H-pipe, Dynomax mufflers, custom interior

07-10-2001, 02:54 PM	#10
topless tire fryer All show, some go 4 now! Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Franklin, NH Posts: 175	My buddy who was with me felt the need to remind me the stock looking Eclips got 3 gears of rubber while beating me, so I feel a little better. I think I'll take the 3.73's, and then the NOS. Thanks for the advice everyone. ------------------ '95 Chrome Yellow GT ragtop, KN filter charger, Dynomax cat back, Accel plugs and wires.

07-10-2001, 04:26 PM	#11
bada$$lx Guest Posts: n/a	Don't bother wasting your $$$ on a chip at this stage of your mods (unless you have $300 to give away, but then, jst send it to me ) The 3.73's will help you BIG TIME. And the N2O.....well, that'll just be the icing on the cake. ------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)

07-11-2001, 01:37 AM	#12
#1 Pony Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 268	QUESTION. What are sub frames for a convert, and what do they help do?

07-11-2001, 10:01 AM	#13
stevstum Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Salem, Or. USA Posts: 233	I would do a gear swap and 3000 stall torqe converter and shitft improver kit. Then a 100 shot of NOS. ------------------ Steve Stumbaugh 89 LX 5.0 5sp. Removed air silencer Motorcraft 8mm wires Autolite platinum plugs BBK O/R h-pipe

07-11-2001, 01:33 PM	#15
bada$$lx Guest Posts: n/a	Subs are a MUST for every Stang - right up there w/ gears! ------------------ '90 LX 5.0; 12K original miles (no sh*&); 3.55 gears; pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads; BBK shorties; MSD 6AL box w/ blaster 2 coil; Motorsport E303 cam; Pro-M 75mm MAF; BBK 70mm TB; Eibach spring kit; Southside welded subs; K&N cone filter charger; Hurst shifter; fiberglass turbo hood; A/C-less; rear seat-less; cat-less; 2 chamber Flos; Corbeau racing seats (fronts); 30# injectors; JMS Chip; 190 lb fp; TFS track heat Intake (12.299 @ 113)