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Old 04-29-2004, 08:40 PM   #1
PowerSlideGT
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Default Any one in Paint and Body

Hey guys,

I have a 87 mustang gt, that has about an inch inch and a half of dent up top, and i was wondering how much it would cost to put a dark red metallic flake paint job on it?
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Old 04-29-2004, 08:47 PM   #2
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O yea and also along with this decal on the hood and fenders. I was wondering how much it would cost to get this kit actually painted on, because since i dont have that hood or the right year, i was wanting them to blind the hood line, and scoop part all togeather and then keep the rest the same.
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1988 mustang gt t-top svo alum. Heads, comp cam rockers, e303 cam, Mass air, BBK cold air induction, BBK throttle body, gt-40 intake 1 inch spacer, Alum. drive shaft, world class 5 speed, 3.55 gear rear end, drag front springs.
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Old 04-29-2004, 08:58 PM   #3
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that would look good, sorry i'm a wrench guy, but i hope to go to work for a body shop near bristol soon, wanna learn it, so i can paint my falcon myself. good luck.
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Old 04-30-2004, 12:02 AM   #4
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That's a pretty open question. What do you mean by an inch and half dent? Deep or across? On the roof? Are you looking for a show stopper, or just kinda shinny? It vary the price greatly. Are you goping to paint all the jams and under the hood? Are you willing to pull the motor?

We need more details to get even close to a guess.
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires.
my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250
NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft
corrects to:13.86@100
66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver
12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft
corrects to:11.69@115
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Old 04-30-2004, 04:10 PM   #5
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Im not looking for a show stopper, just a nice looking ride. So i dont wanna pull the motor, and i want the hedges painted, and under the hood. The dent is an inch or inch 1/2 long not that deep at all. I want it to look nice and shinny.
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1988 mustang gt t-top svo alum. Heads, comp cam rockers, e303 cam, Mass air, BBK cold air induction, BBK throttle body, gt-40 intake 1 inch spacer, Alum. drive shaft, world class 5 speed, 3.55 gear rear end, drag front springs.
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Old 04-30-2004, 04:18 PM   #6
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The dent is on the roof above the side glass... well heck i;ll be right back i';ll get a pic of it.
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1988 mustang gt t-top svo alum. Heads, comp cam rockers, e303 cam, Mass air, BBK cold air induction, BBK throttle body, gt-40 intake 1 inch spacer, Alum. drive shaft, world class 5 speed, 3.55 gear rear end, drag front springs.
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Old 05-02-2004, 04:40 PM   #7
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Here are the Dents, Give me an estemation.... on the paint job and the body work.
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1988 mustang gt t-top svo alum. Heads, comp cam rockers, e303 cam, Mass air, BBK cold air induction, BBK throttle body, gt-40 intake 1 inch spacer, Alum. drive shaft, world class 5 speed, 3.55 gear rear end, drag front springs.
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Old 05-02-2004, 04:46 PM   #8
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the first is a Roof dent, i cant label things correctly..
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1988 mustang gt t-top svo alum. Heads, comp cam rockers, e303 cam, Mass air, BBK cold air induction, BBK throttle body, gt-40 intake 1 inch spacer, Alum. drive shaft, world class 5 speed, 3.55 gear rear end, drag front springs.
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Old 05-04-2004, 06:31 PM   #9
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Default Body OK otherwise?

Hard for me to believe that the body doesn't need wok elsewhere on a '87? From what you've said though, I would expect $1200-1500 for a decent (read daily driver) that looks fairly good. A show stopper would probably be $8000-10000 I would bet. Then there are those others in between.

And then Earl Schieb will paint any cay for $199.95, LOL.

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Old 05-04-2004, 08:14 PM   #10
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I would think if you want a something that won't impress you at the drivethrough, that $1500 is not going to cut it. I would expect to pay about 4K for something decent, but not show worthy.
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires.
my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250
NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft
corrects to:13.86@100
66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver
12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft
corrects to:11.69@115
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Old 05-04-2004, 08:29 PM   #11
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Default Decent?

I think it's just semantics.....how good is "decnt"? I thought we were just talking "daily driver". Certainly, with more expense, we can get better quality if we are careful.

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Old 05-04-2004, 09:22 PM   #12
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Tried to get a silver 1994 T-bird painted. No body work just dull and some very thin spots on the roof. Took it to a couple of places. I would say 3-4K is about right for a paint job at a private (not dealer) paint shop. Tried Macco but they had gone out of business. I was expecting about 1K to 1.5K there. Finally could not see that much into painting a 94 T-bird so I sold it and got the black one in my avitar that was very low miles ~35K and garage kept (plastic headlight are still crystal clear) for about $5K difference.

Yeah I'd say $3-4K for good private shop job. Not show paint though.

Would be interesting to hear from a paint and body person.
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Old 05-04-2004, 11:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by mustardjohn


Would be interesting to hear from a paint and body person. [/B]
You did!!
Check my profile.....


Of course this is just a guestimate. Totally impossible to be close without looking at the car, discussing exactly what you want and don't want. But I think 4K is in the ballpark. AND I'm from Canada, our prices are going to be a little differnt too.

Just go to few shops, talk to some people.
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires.
my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250
NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft
corrects to:13.86@100
66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver
12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft
corrects to:11.69@115
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Old 05-05-2004, 08:50 PM   #14
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Sorry gofast... I missed that. Sounds like my quotes pretty much confirm your thoughts on cost estimate. Talked to a guy at work today who just got a paint job. One thing that can cut the price is how much prework you are willing to do. He took stuff off his car and did other things that the paint shop told him to do before bringing it in for paint and that cut some off his bill. At least that would be a point of discussion when shopping around for best price.
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:30 PM   #15
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Great point, when I do a car in my personal garage, I try really hard to get the owner to take it apart himself, and will charge more if I have to. It takes along time to do all the R&I on any car. And all it is, is time, no point paying a skilled guy skilled wages to do work you can easily do youself.
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires.
my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250
NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft
corrects to:13.86@100
66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver
12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft
corrects to:11.69@115
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:15 PM   #16
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Yeah, the guy at work saved between $500 and $800. I thought that was a great savings. I didn't ask exactly what he did. On the newer cars it doesn't look like there is that much that comes off, however.

The guy at work built his on Cobra from a kit so there were a number of things that he could do. For an 87 Mustang it looks like there could be significant do ahead type work too.

What is R&I. Is that like taking bumpers off and the like?
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Old 05-07-2004, 04:43 PM   #17
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Default Minimal body work?

That's the reason I questioned the small amount of body work needed for that car. Time and skill = money. From what he was saying, I thought we were talking masking everything with no disassembly. Believe me I know what effort is needed for the kind of work you'all are talking about. I did do that myself on my '66 Stang. Bare metal to final paint cost me $1500 in materials alone and 6 months of weekends. I figured that would have cost me $8000-10000 and that was a few years ago. To do it again, I would pay a professional.

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Old 05-07-2004, 10:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by mustardjohn


What is R&I. Is that like taking bumpers off and the like?
Remove and Install

I would not paint one of these without taking it apart. Those small tape lines will really stand out to car guys, maybe not your girlfriend or your Mom.

The most work on that model is the rear quarter windows. Some of the interior has to come out. It is the small things that make a big differernce, but some of it you can do yourself.
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93LXcopcarSOLD14.3@96 @ 4500ft 2.02 60ft on street tires.
my 67 ranchero NOT A 390 ANY MORE! 460! 3.70's cast manifolds, comp cams 262H, performer, 750DP 100K out of 79 F250
NEW(oct20/02)14.58@95mph 2.3 60 ft
corrects to:13.86@100
66 merc comet351w, isky roller 600 lift 268/260@.050, vic jr. 700DP, 5000stall, 4.56's c-4, 3400lbs with driver
12.3@110 @ 4000ft 1.69 60 ft
corrects to:11.69@115
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Old 05-07-2004, 11:10 PM   #19
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Default Rear quarter panel trim

Quote:
Originally posted by gofastmercury
Remove and Install

I would not paint one of these without taking it apart. Those small tape lines will really stand out to car guys, maybe not your girlfriend or your Mom.

The most work on that model is the rear quarter windows. Some of the interior has to come out. It is the small things that make a big differernce, but some of it you can do yourself.
It's definitely true. I had to remove the rear quarter windows to get the rear quarter trim off to prep for paint. Reinstalling those little bastards and adjusting them is a pain as well. All this kind of stuff is time consuming and will cost a bundle if someone else has to do it .

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Old 05-07-2004, 11:14 PM   #20
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seems like its a good time for you to learn how to do body work!!! 4k for just the paint job for him?? Plus the cost of removing the dent and smoothing it all out. Do you have insurance on it?? that would be nice. Im doing all my own bodywork and paint on my 65, since I like to do it and learned how to do it somewhat well on my 90 Jeep. I think the hardest part about doing the body work is working the body filler to try to get it perfectly smooth, which I dont think I have really done yet. (perfectly) Being 17 and working at Kmart also helps in trying to do everything myself, to save money!! (thanks to Rev for answering all of my FREAKING questions!)
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