Motor Rebuild Ques.

[skiwesser]

I'm going to rebuild my bottom end and was wondering a few things.

1) Should I have my rotating assembly balanced? I'm on a budget and I am using stock (home ported) heads (stock valves) and intake and my mach. shop charges $190. I may get another intake but prob not heads also Imay spray it w/100 shot. I was thinking balancing or a main girdle?? Either? I am on a pretty tight budget but don't want to sacrifice durability.

2) What cam should I use? My heads are milled .035 and I'd like to keep the 1.7 RR's. Leave stock cam? I like the specs on the trickflow #1 cam (lift with 1.7's would be .530/.542 & 221/225 dur @.050) too much for shaved heads?

Any other suggestions, tips greatly appreciated !!

Thanks
Wes

[Hozer 88GTConv]

I'm sure PKRWUD will chime in here, but my .02 anyway.

Yes, have your rotating assembly balanced. You can't build up your block with doubts about your crank. I don't think it is really an option. Think about it later after you are done, it may hurt money-wise now, but you can add stuff up top later with confidence that your lower end is sound. Esp if you are going with a power adder.

I don't think the stock cam is that bad for what you are doing either. A big bad cam on even ported stock heads and stock intake is probably not the most efficient way of adding power.

I'd balance the lower end now, and then do a cam later when I changed heads and intake.

[tireburner163]

Go ahead and get it balanced now. It's easier to do it now than later.

If I remember correctly the max lift is aroud .555. But that's with stock heads and pistons.

I would sell the 1.7 RR and get a set of 1.6's. I would actully probably go with a cam with a TAD less duration than the TFS #1 cam. Whatever you do say away from the FMS alphabet cams (E-303, B-303, etc). They're junk.

[Hozer 88GTConv]

Whatever you do say away from the FMS alphabet cams (E-303, B-303, etc). They're junk.

This has been beat to death, but I make 310 rwhp with a "junk" B-cam...

Not trying to flame, but they are still decent cams, not the best, but good drivability cams.

Originally posted by Hozer 88GTConv
This has been beat to death, but I make 310 rwhp with a "junk" B-cam...

Not trying to flame, but they are still decent cams, not the best, but good drivability cams.

I agree there are better cams on the market today. But I make well over 300hp with my B-303 w/ 1.72 rockers, Edel. heads & manifold. I run mid to high 12s on motor...mid 11s on a 150 dry shot. Not that shabby for a "junk" cam.

Originally posted by tireburner163
I would sell the 1.7 RR and get a set of 1.6's. I would actully probably go with a cam with a TAD less duration than the TFS #1 cam. Whatever you do say away from the FMS alphabet cams (E-303, B-303, etc). They're junk.

skiwesser-
I'd stay with the stock cam. Your heads still have stock sized valves and even if you get an aftermarket intake...you won't benefit from an aftermarket cam. You'd probably lose some low end torque actually. When my motor was stock with all the little bolt- ons...I ran 1.72 rockers and picked up a little top end. Not much...but there was a difference. So my suggestion is to use your 1.7 rockers. If you already have them...you might as well use them.

[tireburner163]

E-303 = junk. Idles like crap, falls on it's face in the upper RPMs

B-303 = Kinda quarky but a fairly decent cam. It likes carbs

F-303 = the best of the alphbet cams, IMHO, if you've got the parts to support it

X-303 = Does any body with a serious motor actully run this?



Over all most of the alphabet cams are marginal at best. I'd use one if I could pick up a used one for cheap. But I can't see buying a brand new alphabet cam when there are so many choices that are so much better.

I totally agree. My motor only has about 20K miles on it...but I rebuilt the motor some 7 or 8 years ago. The choices of cams back then weren't what they are today. Eventually I'll swap in a better cam...when I can afford some AFR 165s.

[blue oval 50h]

1. Balance it

2. Stock cam retarded 4*

[LX5liter]

Since nobody else mentioned it, I will. Try and do the main girdle as well when you have it apart. Its cheap insurance and there are more than a few 2 piece 302 blocks out there to prove it. And if you are going to a larger cam or 1.7 rockers, check your piston to valve clearance before your final assembly.

[skiwesser]

How exactly do you check piston/valve clearance?
All I know is what I've read: put some clay on top of piston, mock up head & turn over by hand? If the valve is gonna hit the piston will it not bind up? Can any piston be notched for clearance? Is it expensive to have them notched, how do I check and then translate to machine shop where to notch them?, how deep?

Inexpereance sux!
Thanks

P.S. A while back I ran a desktop dyno of a stock motor and the power really jumped when i retarded the stock cam so I was concidering doing that ,but 4* seems like a lot?
I don't have that program any more but it seems I remember that the retarted cam really brought up power anyone else tried this with their car?

[red82gt]

Originally posted by tireburner163
E-303 = junk. Idles like crap, falls on it's face in the upper RPMs

My car made peak power on the dyno at 6100rpms with the E303. That being said, I like my Comp XE cam a lot better, much more midrange power.

Also, don't bother with a girdle, it won't help to stop the block from splitting, all it'll do is act as a seatbelt to save the internals, which is a waste with stock parts.