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Old 05-23-2001, 11:27 AM   #1
Stang_ROTY
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Question ? for C4 and Dynamic Racing owners

I got my quote from Dynamic Racing today and I am currently in sticker shock. So now (as always) I turn to you all for your opinions. I would like a C4 automatic to drive hard daily on the street but a Mighty Mite w/full roller, SFI bell housing and 10" convertor will cost around 2500 bucks. That seems like alot but is it worth it?? And the real question is...do I need it?? If not, I could get a C4 Comp w/brake for about 250 bucks less. Either way, it's about 2 grand for a tranny. Please give your opinions..whether good or bad.

------------------
Almost done

93 GT, Dynamic C4, 8 pt cage, chute,
Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, 3.73's
'69 393 stroker w/SRP pistons, Edlebrock Performer heads, Performer RPM Upper & Lower Manifold..Crane Gold 1.6 Rollers..BBK 70MM TB & cats..30lb Injectors..Cartech Fuel System..
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Old 05-23-2001, 10:29 PM   #2
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i have used dynamic trans for many years and never had any problems. you dont need a mighty mite unless youre making some serious power. save your money and get the comp tranny with solid front drum and 10 inch converter for 1450$. unless you plan on doing serious racing dont waste the money on the trans brake.
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Old 05-24-2001, 06:45 AM   #3
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Talking

Thanks for the advice. Can you downshift on your C4,if not you must go through a lot of brakes, right? What about a Lentech AOD? Are you familiar with them? Would you recommend that I still go with the Dynamic? I just want to be a ble to have fun on the street AND cruise the highway once in a while AND hit the strip with no worries.

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93 GT, Undecided btw Lentech AOD & Dynamic C4, 8 pt cage, chute,
Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, 3.73's
'69 393 stroker w/SRP pistons, Edlebrock Performer heads, Performer RPM Upper & Lower Manifold..Crane Gold 1.6 Rollers Comp Cam..BBK 70MM TB & cats..30lb Injectors..Cartech Fuel System..etc
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Old 05-25-2001, 11:45 PM   #4
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you can downshift them but its not good to do all the time. you just leave it in third till you come to a stop then shift it. if you go with the dynamic you will still be able to drive on the highway. lentech is expensive and its still an aod. theyre good if you have alot of money and not much power. the c-4 is a better tranny.
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Old 05-26-2001, 12:35 AM   #5
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Well, the bottom line is that my motor has been balanced with a 13 1/4 in. flywhell (not sure of tooth #) and I can't get an AOD anyway without eating the flywheel and sending the motor out again. I spoke with JR today from Dynamic and I'm going with a Roller Mite (Mighty Mite w/out brake). Sound like I'll still have fun and be more durable than an AOD. How are they on the highways?
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Old 05-26-2001, 12:37 AM   #6
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Well, the bottom line is that my motor has been balanced with a 13 1/4 in. flywhell (not sure of tooth #) and I can't get an AOD anyway without eating the flywheel and sending the motor out again. I spoke with JR today from Dynamic and I'm going with a Roller Mite (Mighty Mite w/out brake). Sound like I'll still have fun and be more durable than an AOD. How are they on the highways?
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Old 05-26-2001, 10:52 PM   #7
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i dont think you need a mighty mite less brake but i dont really know your intentions for the car. i dont usually talk to jr but im sure he has good reason to reccomend it. harold is the guy to talk to in my opinion. and hell work out a deal sometimes. anyhow, the trannies are fine on the highway. its the converters you have to worry about. they will heat up. make sure you get the best trans cooler you can and youll be fine. be sure you explain to harold or jr that you will be driving on the highway so you dont get a converter thats too loose. also you should know that there are different meanings to stall on the converter. theres actual stall or flash and foot brake stall. ask about that so they can explain.
and a money saver, they're always looking for trannies so if you can get extra cores c-4 or otherwise they will take off 50$ for each.
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Old 05-28-2001, 09:54 AM   #8
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jr was pretty cool and Harold agreed with the Roller Mite (mighty Mite minus brke)just in case I decide to step it up the future. I'll check again w/harold and maybe he can give me a deal somehow. I really don't want to waste $$ on stuff I don't need. How much flywheel HP is needed for a Mighty Mite Full roller setup?

------------------
Almost done

93 GT, Undecided btw Lentech AOD & Dynamic C4, 8 pt cage, chute,
Sothside Machine bars & Sub-frames, 3.73's
'69 393 stroker w/SRP pistons, Edlebrock Performer heads, Performer RPM Upper & Lower Manifold..Crane Gold 1.6 Rollers Comp Cam..BBK 70MM TB, ceraminc shorties & H-pipe w/cats..30lb Injectors..Cartech Fuel System..etc
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Old 05-28-2001, 08:50 PM   #9
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talk to harold about a deal. sometimes he can be good. going with what they said, it would be good to get the best you can in case you do upgrade. thats assuming you have the money. as for hp for each tranny, well i have the comp unit on both my 302 and 357 the 357 makes around 450 flywheel. its an 11.60 car. the other 400 stroker car makes 800 hp and that has the mighty mite. so if you plan on making an actual 600 hp then the mite will be the way to go. there are alot of variables with choosing a tranny such as intended use, converter selection, funds, how often you will be refreshing it etc. these are all things to keep in mind. alot of people buy trannies then say why doesnt it work or it sucks. the mite would be the best choice for racing, the comp would be good for regular street. both are streetable.
dynamic stands by their trannies so if you break it in a year theyll fix it. one tip i can give is, when 1 year comes have it refreshed for the 150 they charge. ive seen them go after the 1 year mark. get the best you can for what you can afford.
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Old 05-29-2001, 12:05 PM   #10
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Have you had either of your tranny's on the streets? I'm just curious as to what type of driveability I can get with 3.73 gears. Can I expect a nice chirping sound when I bang through the gears...we all know how important THAT is:-) So you don't recommend downshifting a lot...does that mean I'll spend most of my time on the street at 30-45mph in second gear? Also, what tupe of flywheel do you have and how many tooth is it?

Thanks Juiceman
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Old 05-29-2001, 07:30 PM   #11
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ive had all my trannies on the street and except for the 400 stroker which has 14:1 comp all have been on the highway. drove the 302 to fla from ny. only problem i had was the converter going, but it was a loose converter. you will be running at 3000 at 65 mph. the tranny will shift hard and you will easily chirp second if not spin em a little. i dont recommend downshifting alot but no you will not drive around in second gear. you want to get to third just as if it were fully automatic. when you come to a stop then downshift it to 1st. if your in 2nd or 3rd and someone rolls up next to you you can downshift it and stomp the gas with no problem. been doin that for years. as for flywheels i use the 164 tooth stock flywheel. mainly cause theyre cheap and easy to get. since you have a 351 thats what you will use. its 28 balance. if you want to be safe you can get an sfi flywheel but it will run around 250$ unless you get a deal. ask harold about that. be sure to give them every detail about your motor and car when you get the converter so they can give you the best converter.
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Old 05-30-2001, 11:48 AM   #12
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Well, now I think I'm in more trouble. You said that I should have the 164 tooth flywheel? That's the same flywheel Lentech said I'd need to run an AOD. That's when I hung up the phone. My engine is already balanced with the stroker kit and a 13 1/4 in. flywheel that I assume is a 157 tooth. I spent $1900.00 on the flywheel, dampner, and stroker kit with SRP forged pistons and a SCAT crank. This smaller flywheel I have already balanced is the reason that I choose to go with the C4 instead of the AOD from Lentech. I told Dynamic about the flywheel and filled out everything I could on their spec. sheet. Am I screwed by having this flywheel??? Wouldn't Dynamic have told me that my flywheel was incorrect. Or does the C4 fit either one since you said the 164 tooth was "standard"??
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Old 05-30-2001, 07:45 PM   #13
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well, ill explain it as best i can. i dont have my extra flywheel with me to mesure it so i cant say if its a 164 or 157 tooth. you can use either one however the 164 is standard for all 351 apps. so i would assume that the company you got it from gave you that one. now, since you told dynamic that you had a 351 they will most likely assume you have the 164 flywheel. if you do not, then you will need the small bellhousing, not the big one which will most likely be on it. what you can do is mesure the bolt circle on the flywheel. small wheel is 10" 3/4 i believe and big wheel is 11" 1/2. not sure of the exact mesure but its close. you will need to know for sure what wheel you have so you can have dynamic send the right converter and housing. next thing, although when you have the motor balanced you give them the flywheel , it does not mean that you cannot change the flywheel. that motor is a 28 oz balance like all 351w's so any flywheel with that 28oz weight will work. be it small or big. otherwise, if for any reason your flywheel broke you would then have to rebalance the motor or be able to exactly duplicate the old wheel. not very practical. so be sure what wheel you have before you order anything. if you want to change wheels to a 164 tooth then all you have to do is get the wheel and put it on. just get the right weight balance. unless its internal balanced. which has no weight on the wheel.
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Old 05-31-2001, 11:35 AM   #14
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OK...here's the deal. I got a SFI 157 tooth flywheel and it's pre-balanced. The stroker kit is in the block and the windage tray and main girdle fit well. I called today and put a deposit down on the Dynamic tranny and it should be here in a few weeks. Actually, I'm going to drive down and pick it up since I'm relatively close. One more question..do I need to spend the extra $$ on the aluminum pan and what is the advantage of it? I 'm still considering using the transbrake but as an alternative couldn't I use the line lock at the starting line?
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Old 05-31-2001, 02:11 PM   #15
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wel, you dont need the aluminum pan. some benefits are fluid cools faster, pan holds more fluid, has drain plug, and looks nicer. i dont know how much extra it is from them but stefs is only 100$. i dont rcommend it for the street only because it may get messed up from road debris. other than that, its more or less a personal choice of which you like more.
as for the brake, i sugest you just get the line lock. heres the run down on that.
line lock allows you to lock the front tires and do a burn out, hold the car at the line and rev up to launch, is alot easier on the suspension, and is fun. and cheaper. plus, you will need a line lock either way anyway. with the brake you have to watch tranny temp close since it causes the tranny to heat up real quick, lets you leave at higher rpm and harder but at the cost of the suspension, cost alot more, and cant just be used anytime you want to. most people dont get brakes unless the car is back halved or has serious suspension work. it will rip the trq. boxes off the car after a while. and break stock driveshafts and other parts. especially rear end stuff. so you will need the best parts to go with that brake.
you can get a trans brake at any time and the price will still be the same for it. and theyre easy to install. if you plan on making this car a great drag car then get it now. i like trans brakes myself but wouldnt use one on the street. just be sure to get all the right stuff that will be needed to handle it.
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