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Old 08-13-2002, 06:31 AM   #5
Rick 91GT
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
Posts: 1,539
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You can take the rear main seal out a few different ways, one I have seen and done is thread a dry wall screw into the seal on both side then pull it out. I always use a small screw driver to get under the seal and pull it out, just need to be careful so you don't scratch the crank.

To install a new seal, pul oil around the crank so you don't rip the new seal while installing, put a thin coat of Permatex around the seal and tap it in place, I use a really small flat punch to ensure it is all the way in. Don't forget you should replace the pilot bearing while it is all out as well, it is in the end of the crank. The sell pullers that make it very easy, if not you can pack the caviity with heavy grease and pack in in, eventually the grease has so much pressure against the rear of the bearing it pops out.

Not quite sure why stop and go would kill the clutch unless it wasn't disagaging.

The flywheel tool makes things much easier, never seen it at any of my local stores, Jegs carries them. Look at the SPEC line of clutches the Stage II would be fine for you, and your future mods. Flywheel has to be resurfaced $25-$30 not worth taking that chance. Son't forget to put either liquid teflon or blue loctite (which I prefer) on the flywheel bolts since they go all the way through into the oil pan, or they will leak and ruin your new clutch. Torque everything down and you will be fine.
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