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Old 05-23-2004, 09:07 AM   #1
GT01
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Default 2001 Mustang GT

I have been reading alot of posts.. Seems like everyone has somthing different going on.. If someone could point me in the right direction on were to start it would be great.. The car is completly stock.. Thanks
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Old 05-23-2004, 09:13 AM   #2
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right direction for what
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Old 05-23-2004, 11:23 AM   #3
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Old 05-23-2004, 11:33 AM   #4
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well I would like to get it to run 12 sec 1/4 mile.. I have been looking at superchargers. Will I need more than that?
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Old 05-23-2004, 07:14 PM   #5
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I all you want is a 12sec timeslip ... throw a lot of boost on your stock set-up and ...yes that's all you need!!!

I would suggest a more comprehensive approach.

1. suspension
2. exhaust -- as free flowing and tuned as you like it
3. power adder support; most will be purchased witht the power adder of choice ie. fuel, induction and computer tuned chip

Note: you can have 12 sec GT without forged internals and a 'trick' transmission, however, it woud be wise to look into how to make your engine live a long, healthy life.
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Old 05-23-2004, 07:55 PM   #6
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I live in Detroit Michigan.. There is some good Drag racing out here at the few 1/4 mile tracks we have.. I would like to play alittle.. I figure I will need to run atleast a 12 somthing and be able to hook up well.. I do want to get the most life out of my engine that I can. My question was more at how much more will I need the charger and cat back exaust are a given. Would you do a full exhaust headers back?I'm looking at the 3.90 rear end. or a 4.10 not sure...I just want to know where to start...thanks Sorry for the stupid post point taken....

Last edited by GT01; 05-24-2004 at 05:26 AM..
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Old 05-24-2004, 12:00 AM   #7
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1st, welcome to the site!

2nd, NEVER talk about street racing or you will get thrown off. None of the reputable message boards tollerate this. Be sure to say "I am going to the track.....". This is a huge liability issue and street racing is HIGHLY illegal and bad for all of us. I pay higher insurabce rates because of guys who do this and it really ticks me off PLUS I want to live and my kids want to live.

3rd, your question was like asking "so I just graduated from med school and I want to perform a brain transplant, what do i do next". I am NO WAY busting on you and we all love a new guy. Without guys like you scooping up stangs, this whole thing goes away. But, there is so much to discuss to answer this question.

4th, I will try to give you some advice:

A 12 second NA car is pretty hard to achive, without something major. You can do this with heads and cams (among other things), but you most likely need a power adder. Nitrous alone, will get you to the mid 12's EASY AND for less then $600.

What are your goals? If you want to go straight with LOTS of power for cheap, NO2 is your best bet. But, read up on it. You have to do it right.

There is always the bolt-on route, but they will not get you to 12's alone....perhaps low 13's. I speak of underdrive pullies, throttle bodies, upper plenums, cold air, performance chips, exhaust systems etc... and of course, 4.10's.

4.10's are a great mod, but you need to be a good driver. Oh, did I tell you that the best mod is practice???? However, if you plan a blower, then you want 3.73 max most likely.

If you want a supercharger or turbo, you have to change a lot more on the car. Things like ignition, timing, plugs, and the entire fuel system. Not to mention a custom dyno tune. Figure on a $4,000 - $8,000 expense depending on who does the work (remember what I said about nitrous).

Also, more power means you need to get it to the ground. So better suspension and a stronger rear end. It really takes about $10 - $12K to build a GT into a monster.

The best thing you can do is READ, READ, and READ. Ask lots of questions and be sure what is best for you. Don't listed to me, listen to all of us. Take it all in. Go to other sites like www.modulardepot.com. Some of the fastest Mustangs in the world are on that site. Also, don't jump at anything too fast.

One way to get into the 12's very quickly...tomorrow actually is to trade your car in on a 2003+ Cobra. Sometimes we spend lots of money building a car, when this often is the best option.

Look at my mods. I am running, or should be, mid 13's. An X Pipe would help me out quite a bit and heads and cams should get me into the high 12's. I would think this gives you some idea.

Hope this helps!
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Old 05-24-2004, 02:48 PM   #8
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Thanks xxxBlakexxx,

I must be able to drive this car every day! Today I was looking a a intake and heads and throtle body. I'm in a big circle of not nowing witch way to go..lol I think I like the idea of building the upper end.. I hear you can get 400 hp with a few things... Thanks again..
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:56 PM   #9
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That's the fun of it. Most of us build it a little at a time. I purchased my stang last summer...it was totally stock. I started the mods in September or October and I do not plan on much else for a while. Hate to have the car down during the nice weather and it is running so great right now. It really is a thrill ride to drive.

My favorite mods for the money are as follows:

1 - Tri-Ax shifter (paid $148)
2 - Deep dish Bullet Rims (paid $540)
3 - SLP Exhaust (paid $340)
4 - 4.10's (paid about $500 installed)

If, I could do it again, I would be fine if I had just done these and stopped. Don't get me wrong, i still enjoy my other mods, but these 4 made the biggest difference to me. Note, that they are really not focused on power, but looks and drivability too.

While the car is a goof around thing for me, it needs to be driveable.
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My Stang:
2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:08 PM   #10
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Is your car a automatic? What are the mods for a stock Gt transmision ...? I need to be able to drive mine on the highway. I go about 80MPH most of the time with a 410 that is over 3000RPM's right?
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:33 PM   #11
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I have a 5 speed. What is your trany type? This will change what you can do with it. 5 speeds are real simple. At 80 mph, you will be running close to 3,000 rpms in 5th. I don't cruise that high as I am an olf fart (36) with a company car and my driving record gets heavily watched. I am not a big speed demon. I do run at about 72 most of the time whicj is about 2700 rpms. To be honest, it is really not a problem.

Let me know if you have an auto, so I can get into it a little more if needed.
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My Stang:
2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:44 PM   #12
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Yes I have a auto.. Is there a few different ones for 2001?
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:57 PM   #13
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Not to discredit anyone..but I must chime in.

Depending on your track conditions..altitude..weather and all of course.

Me, Explicitone, and GT can testify that you can run 12's in a NA GT 2v Motor. While it takes alot of bolt ons, the most critical parts are Driving and Track conditions.

If you do the work yourself, look to spend about 3000 dollars on suspension parts, exhaust, and typical drivetrain bolt ons, and your engine bolt ons. (Not included in est...Bullit Intake)

You can do it on a stock internals, cams, heads..it will be a high 12 with alot of driving practice...moslty on the launch and getting your shifting top notch. (How much more is there than that though).

Alot of people make up for lack of driving skill by throwing more mods on there car...No offense to anyone. Learn to maximize what you have before throwing Nitrious or a blower on it.

If you go with a complete motor build along with the suspension and other goodies (Still N/A) ...at the right track..you will be knocking on 11 second door.
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Old 05-24-2004, 11:16 PM   #14
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Merc, I don't disagree with what you are saying. I did mention much ealier in this thread that the best mod is practice.

Sure, 12's are possible NA, crap, so is a lot faster. I was at Jensens today in Nescopeck, PA. Andy has built a number of fast cars running the 1/4 in the low 8's and when asked about cams and heads, he called them "bolt-ons". So, it all depends on your perspective. Most guys around here might not call this kind of work "bolt-ons" eventhough it is probably technically correct.

It's a little hard to help GT01 as he seems to be unsure of the direction that he wants to take...which is fine...it will become more clear as he learns more about his car and his financial limitations.

GT01: In 2001, I believe there were two different autos. I think this is the year they switched half way through the year. I have never had an auto stang, so I am not the best guy to respond. Since you have an auto, you can obviously forget any upgrades using the Steeda Tri-Ax mentioned earlier as it is for a 5 speed.

With an auto, there are three things you can do:

1 - 4.10's or 4.30's
2 - Change your converter. This is pretty expensive, but effective from what I understand (auto guys jump in)
3 - Performance chip/programmer. This will firm up your shifts and allow higher rpms. A must with the 4.10s.

You can always do 1 & 3 now and 2 later.
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My Stang:
2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)
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Old 05-25-2004, 03:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
2nd, NEVER talk about street racing or you will get thrown off. None of the reputable message boards tollerate this. Be sure to say "I am going to the track.....". This is a huge liability issue and street racing is HIGHLY illegal and bad for all of us. I pay higher insurabce rates because of guys who do this and it really ticks me off PLUS I want to live and my kids want to live.

maybe im missing something but we have a "street racers corner" section and no one has ever taken heat for posting about street racing on this site before....

unless things have changed
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Old 05-25-2004, 08:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
GT01: In 2001, I believe there were two different autos. I think this is the year they switched half way through the year. I have never had an auto stang, so I am not the best guy to respond. Since you have an auto, you can obviously forget any upgrades using the Steeda Tri-Ax mentioned earlier as it is for a 5 speed.

I am unsure about the auto's, but, in 01 they did swap the t-45 for the 3650 (5 spd trannies). Again, I dont know about the auto, cause I havent owned one.
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Old 05-26-2004, 07:19 PM   #17
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I have a U code for the transmision what ever that means? Also who has the best sounding exhaust? I have been listening to clips for a week now,, I can't figure out witch one to buy.
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Old 05-26-2004, 10:03 PM   #18
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Exhaust? That is a real personal decision. Some of the more popular brands are:

1 - Flowmaster
2 - Borla
3 - Magnaflows
4 - Bassani
5 - SLP

Each brand has different options and what you do to the H Pipe or headers also changes the sound and performance too.

What are your goals with your exhaust? Can you try to tell us what you are looking for?

For example, if you want a little rumble and don't want to pay too much, welded Flowmasters are a way to go (2 or three baffle mufflers). If you are looking for the classic muscle car sound, then SLP may be want you want.

One of the best things you can do is go to Mustang car shows or hang out at the track to hear cars first-hand. Ask guys what they are using. Sound clips suck.

If you can't do this, then you will need a little blind faith. I bought my SLP without ever hearing one in person.
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My Stang:
2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)
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Old 05-26-2004, 10:44 PM   #19
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I want a low tone. Not real loud but I want to know they are under there..lol I can tell you spl's are to loud for me.. I'm going to start with a cat back.. But once I put the gear in and have the cpu reprogrammed I will put a no cat X pipe on it.. I have read the O2 eliminators don't work very well you still get the check engine light.. I was going to get magnaflow's but I think they maybe to quiet? but i'm not sure..
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Old 05-27-2004, 09:47 AM   #20
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In my own personal opinion, MAC has one of the best sounding catbacks out. Not "too loud", not too quiet. Has a very aggressive sound. Much better than blowmasters.
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