Merc, I don't disagree with what you are saying. I did mention much ealier in this thread that the best mod is practice.
Sure, 12's are possible NA, crap, so is a lot faster. I was at Jensens today in Nescopeck, PA. Andy has built a number of fast cars running the 1/4 in the low 8's and when asked about cams and heads, he called them "bolt-ons". So, it all depends on your perspective. Most guys around here might not call this kind of work "bolt-ons" eventhough it is probably technically correct.
It's a little hard to help GT01 as he seems to be unsure of the direction that he wants to take...which is fine...it will become more clear as he learns more about his car and his financial limitations.
GT01: In 2001, I believe there were two different autos. I think this is the year they switched half way through the year. I have never had an auto stang, so I am not the best guy to respond. Since you have an auto, you can obviously forget any upgrades using the Steeda Tri-Ax mentioned earlier as it is for a 5 speed.
With an auto, there are three things you can do:
1 - 4.10's or 4.30's
2 - Change your converter. This is pretty expensive, but effective from what I understand (auto guys jump in)
3 - Performance chip/programmer. This will firm up your shifts and allow higher rpms. A must with the 4.10s.
You can always do 1 & 3 now and 2 later.
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My Stang:
2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)
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