GT or Cobra? Please Read

ImportCrossover · 04-03-2001, 09:26 AM

I will be purchasing my Mustang (coupe) in the next month or so, but I can't seem to decide on the GT or Cobra. I plan on spending about $35k on the whole project including engine performance, suspension, wheels, body kit, and other misc. accessories. Normally the Cobra would be an obvious choice, but Id like your opinions on whether or not it would be worth it too just get the GT and put roughly $12k into performance and aftermarket goodies or to get the cobra and have roughly $6k too work with. Any suggestions or thoughts you guys can share with me will be greatly appreciated.

Stefan · 04-03-2001, 11:56 AM

It would seem to me that you would want to start with the stongest base possible. The DOHC 4.6 in the Cobra is pretty stout despite what alot of people believe. If you go with the GT you're gonna have to dump a lot more money ( I would think) than starting with the DOHC and going from there. You can find older late model Cobras at very decent prices so older Cobras are roughly in the same range price-wise as a late model GT. Cobras are cooler IMO.

That's a good chunk of change so you should have no problem no matter what you decide.

------------------
66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe
Laser Red 96GT Ragtop
30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!

blue00gt · 04-03-2001, 12:18 PM

The Cobra is definitely a stronger package to begin with, but it depends on the extent of mods you want to do and what you'll be using the car for.
If you want to build a lot of horse power and drag race, the IRS is not the best choice. If you really want a Cobra, a 96-98 could be a good choice with the DOHC and live axle.
Basically, I had the same dilemma as you when I was getting ready to buy a car, and I decided on the GT. This is mainly because I planned on getting major suspension mods for handling and didn't want to pay the extra for the Cobra suspension just to change everything (although the Cobra motor is nice with its aluminum block and forged crank).
Also, I like to drag race from time to time and didn't want to mess with the IRS.
For the extra money that the Cobra costs (marked up to almost $40K) where I live, I think a $3K supercharger and $5K in suspension goes a long way towards having a GT that will thrash a stock Cobra for less money.

------------------
2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose.
79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M

ImportCrossover · 04-03-2001, 12:41 PM

I should probably clarify my question. The car will be brand new ('01 or'02). I would either get the GT and spend an additional $12k on it (including supercharger) or get the Cobra and spend an additional $6k on it which probably wouldnt leave me with enough for the supercharger. Although I do want too drag race the car will be a daily driver so handling is going to be a very high priority also meaning that the suspension will be highly modified either way. Thanks for your suggestions so far, please keep them coming.

Hammer · 04-03-2001, 01:39 PM

Another factor that you might face while working with a new car is availability of a Cobra. Considering a very limited run this year and many of them already spoken for, you might have a tough time finding one.

I would say that if you "have" to buy a new one, a GT would be the way to go right now.

If you are still considering used vehicles, a 98 Cobra in good condition would be a great baseline to work with considering the 4.6 DOHC and live axle...

------------------
"The Yellowjacket"
Ricer 1: What the heck was that!?
Ricer 2: I don't know. It looked kind of like a yellow SN95 Mustang.
Ricer 1: Nah, fast SN95 Mustangs don't exist... Must have been a mirage or something...

97snakedriver · 04-03-2001, 01:48 PM

You can do a lot for 12K on a GT, so let me muse on what I would do with $12K:

1. Rebuilt short block*
2. Big blower
3. Griggs or Maximum Motorsports suspension

The short block depends on how much power you want out of the blower (fuel economy since this is a street car). The stock short block will handle quite a bit of power, so you probably don't need to do this...

For the blower and installation, figure $4k total. Or $3500 plus your time if you install it yourself.

$8K left...

Are you planning on running slicks or drag radials? If so, some rear end work maybe a good idea. Bigger gear (3.73) $175 (plus installation), differential (TracTech) $385, 31 spline axles $385. Installation isn't too bad. So that's roughly $600-$700 out the door.

$7.3K left...

Suspension: Highly modified? Hee Hee. You can go NUTZ on suspension if you want to. First off, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS! I would suggest going with either Griggs or Maximum Motorsports and sticking with just that company for your suspension needs.

In the rear, go with their torque arm/panhard rod, and control arms. For MM, figure $250 for the lower control arms, $330 for the PHR, $650 for the heavy duty TA (You'll need the heavy duty if you drag race on slicks with the power you'll be making). For the front, K-member, A-arms, coil overs. Their K-member hasn't come out quite yet, but I would guess about $600. A-arms, $150, cc-plates $200, coil overs (depends on brand). Okay, so coil overs in the front, atleast new springs in the back, suspension wise rear coil overs would be the last thing I do, so that's: 250,330,650,600,150,220,X= 2200 + coil overs. Labor costs me $40/hr. For ALL of this, it would be... maybe $1000? Coil overs? $1000ish.

So we're down to $2.5K... I would upgrade to Cobra brakes. If you dig around enough you can find some for $4-$500 complete. Installation myself.

So, $2K... A good set of wheels and tires will eat that up.. Or just sticky tires:

$1.2K left. Do you need to pass emissions? If so, a H/X pipe with cats will run $5-600. If not, $2-$300. Cat back, $400. Shorty headers, $300..

So that pretty much does it. That would be a BAD *** car! Awsome on the strip, even better on the auto-cross or open road course. By good, I mean you would be destroying pretty much everything.

The other choice would be to tone down the suspension a bit and go for more power stuff. You could easily trim $1K+ off that and still have a bad *** car. Brace the stock k-member, rack bushings, A-arm bushings, instead of swapping it out.

Anyway, Cobra+$6K:

Plenty for a blower! Figure $4k for the blower out the door, installation and everything.

So $2k. Subframe connectors, axles, bushings for the rear, and a cross brace. So you end up with a car that handles pretty darn good thank you very much, and is making mid 400s RWHP and already has good brakes. Not too shabby.

Of course... If you did start with a 97,98 Cobra you could have all of the above...

Oh yeah. Screw the body kit. If you do half of either of the above, then there is no need for one. The car will be incredibly bad *** on its own.

[This message has been edited by 97snakedriver (edited 04-03-2001).]

97snakedriver · 04-03-2001, 01:51 PM

Oh Yeah!
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ http://www.griggsracing.com/

for the suspension.
http://www.steeda.com/

is ONE place to find the rest of the stuff.

04-03-2001, 04:32 PM

I'd probably get the cobra and add a blower.

Mustang92 · 04-03-2001, 04:52 PM

I'd say get the Cobra. Put all your basic bolt-on's, rims, upgrade the suspension and be done. With a few bolt-ons the car will be capable of 12's pretty easily.

------------------
00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Steeda Pulleys, Steeda Timing Adjuster, FMS 4.10’s, Flows w/turndowns, UPR shifter, UPR subframes, UPR adj LCA’s (not installed), Air Filter, Lakewood 70/30 & 50/50, Weld Pro Stars, Nitto DR’s, 253.8 RWHP/292.8RWTQ
Best on DR's 13.09@103.92 (1.81 60ft)
Best on ET Drags 12.91@101.93 (1.74 60ft)
M/M 100
88 LX coupe X-FHP, 12pt Cage, UPR K-member, 31 spline rear, full spool (For Sale)

Lizard King · 04-03-2001, 10:09 PM

GT GT GT. The March edition of MMFF has three modular 4.6 99+, done up with SuperCharger, Exaust, Fuel pump and tires... they run 11.7-11.9 on the quarter mile.

With the left over money you can work on the looks of the car (like the Steeda hood and bottom spoiler).

If your budget can move to 40K... than I'd consider that Cobra...

------------------
Lizard King, Bone Stock; 13.69 at 101MPH
• Extreme Burnout
•2000GT VS LS1
• Quartermile run
•2000GT vs LX Stang

Ty'97Cobra · 04-04-2001, 03:46 PM

I got the Cobra....

Now it is time to add the blower!!!

I get compliments on the 'stock' cobra all the time. How many do you see driving down the street, compared to a GT or Z-28.?.

I don't see many here..

------------------
1997 Black Cobra Convertible. #2788 of 3088
Mostly Stock
1988 5.0 LX Convertible -Work Car...Few Mods.

04-04-2001, 08:50 PM

With the Cobra you get better brakes, better suspension, better engine....

For a daily ride I'd get the cobra, bolt a blower on, add gears, h-pipe, and shifter and be done with it.

Oh yeah, I will mention this... the insurance is hideous on the cobra. My insurance guy said I could insure a c-5 for less $$$.

------------------
Rick
My 89lx(updated 2/21/2001)
My 97 Cobra

SMOKE · 04-05-2001, 08:25 AM

Another vote for the Cobra.

Going new? -The Cobra is the best base to start with and better components than the GT.
I know I own one.

Going used ... Hammer is sopt on .. get the 98 Cobra that's been babied and un modified.

Are you doing the modifications yourself? Would you some $money$.

------------------
K!
Personalized Black 98 SVO Blown Stage II ROUSH
without the side exhaust but some other cool stuff
Dyno 303rwhp 338rwtrq
Still working out the kinks!!!

King Snake · 04-05-2001, 10:06 AM

Hey rbatson, when I was shopping for a Mustang, I checked the insurance on both the GT and the Cobra and I was surprised to find the Cobra was MUCH cheaper than the GT. I asked them why and they told me that since there are fewer of them there are subsequently fewer claims against them, and the insurance rate is partially based on the number of claims. I am talking like several hundred $$$ a year cheaper! (for me)

------------------
'97 Cobra, Rio Red, MAC Cold Air Kit, 3.73s, NGK V-Power
BBK H-pipe w/cats (Coming Soon!!)

Ty'97Cobra · 04-05-2001, 12:35 PM

I would also imagine that the resale value of a slightly modded Cobra would be higher than a highly modded GT.

You would get more of your money back if you were looking to sell sometime down the road....

------------------
1997 Black Cobra Convertible. #2788 of 3088
Mostly Stock
1988 5.0 LX Convertible -Work Car...Few Mods.

Mercury · 04-05-2001, 12:44 PM

Either way you cant go wrong! Both are great cars with alot of engine potential.

Both are Fords, how can one possibly do wrong?

Although the NEW Cobras are really beggining to rattle GM's cage. you'd be surprised by the amount of horse power gained at the rear wheels with Headers, X pipe, and Two-Cat exhaust.

------------------
64 1/2 Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, high side of 10.5:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd.

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car.

97snakedriver · 04-05-2001, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by King Snake:
Hey rbatson, when I was shopping for a Mustang, I checked the insurance on both the GT and the Cobra and I was surprised to find the Cobra was MUCH cheaper than the GT.

Yeah, I found the same thing. I think also a fairly good percentage of Cobras end up in the hands of older men that just tool around in them, while a lot of GTs end up the hands of guys that street race or get into other forms of automative mayham.

04-05-2001, 10:09 PM

You guys must be kidding, my cobra is like a symbol 27 and the c5 is a symbol or 2 less. I'm gonna have to dig out my insurance papers now. I think I need to call some different insurance companies and get to the bottom of this. I'm paying a high premium.

46stang · 04-06-2001, 12:39 AM

if i could have afforded it, i would have gotten the cobra. the only 2 real advantages of the cobra are the dohc motor and the brakes. everything else you'll either mod later or leave it alone. the motor is the best thing because you can easily make over 400rwhp, the gt takes a little effort to get into that hp range. get the cobra it's a better starting platform. jmo.
p.s. i really enjoy my car now, but it basically makes the same hp as a stock cobra. so go figure.

------------------
96 stang,ported 99 heads, 99 intake, 99 cams,Steeda power pullies, 373's, 70mm t/b, gutted maf, bassani x-pipe w/cats, ultraflow catback,iat mod, home depot ram air, k@n. fms spings, tri-ax shifter.

04-03-2001, 09:26 AM	#1
ImportCrossover Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Slatington, PA Posts: 2	GT or Cobra? Please Read I will be purchasing my Mustang (coupe) in the next month or so, but I can't seem to decide on the GT or Cobra. I plan on spending about $35k on the whole project including engine performance, suspension, wheels, body kit, and other misc. accessories. Normally the Cobra would be an obvious choice, but Id like your opinions on whether or not it would be worth it too just get the GT and put roughly $12k into performance and aftermarket goodies or to get the cobra and have roughly $6k too work with. Any suggestions or thoughts you guys can share with me will be greatly appreciated.

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04-03-2001, 11:56 AM	#2
Stefan Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: Manhattan, KS 66502 Posts: 599	It would seem to me that you would want to start with the stongest base possible. The DOHC 4.6 in the Cobra is pretty stout despite what alot of people believe. If you go with the GT you're gonna have to dump a lot more money ( I would think) than starting with the DOHC and going from there. You can find older late model Cobras at very decent prices so older Cobras are roughly in the same range price-wise as a late model GT. Cobras are cooler IMO. That's a good chunk of change so you should have no problem no matter what you decide. ------------------ 66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe Laser Red 96GT Ragtop 30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!

04-03-2001, 12:18 PM	#3
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	The Cobra is definitely a stronger package to begin with, but it depends on the extent of mods you want to do and what you'll be using the car for. If you want to build a lot of horse power and drag race, the IRS is not the best choice. If you really want a Cobra, a 96-98 could be a good choice with the DOHC and live axle. Basically, I had the same dilemma as you when I was getting ready to buy a car, and I decided on the GT. This is mainly because I planned on getting major suspension mods for handling and didn't want to pay the extra for the Cobra suspension just to change everything (although the Cobra motor is nice with its aluminum block and forged crank). Also, I like to drag race from time to time and didn't want to mess with the IRS. For the extra money that the Cobra costs (marked up to almost $40K) where I live, I think a $3K supercharger and $5K in suspension goes a long way towards having a GT that will thrash a stock Cobra for less money. ------------------ 2000GT Atlantic Blue: Cobra R Wheels-17x9 255/40/17, 17x10.5 315/35/17, tubular K-member & control arms, Tokico 5-ways, coil overs, sway bars, strut/shock tower bars, 70mm FMS throttle body, Saleen nose. 79 Pace Car: Maximum Motorsports suspension - H&R Race springs, Bilsteins, rear control arms, chassis bracing, Draglites, 302 w/ Edelbrock Performer intake, cam and 600cfm carb, BBK equal-lengths & H-pipe, 2.5" Flowmaster 2chmbr exhaust, Al Driveshaft, 8.8 trak-loc, TCI C4 w/ 2000 stall, B&M

04-03-2001, 12:41 PM	#4
ImportCrossover Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Slatington, PA Posts: 2	I should probably clarify my question. The car will be brand new ('01 or'02). I would either get the GT and spend an additional $12k on it (including supercharger) or get the Cobra and spend an additional $6k on it which probably wouldnt leave me with enough for the supercharger. Although I do want too drag race the car will be a daily driver so handling is going to be a very high priority also meaning that the suspension will be highly modified either way. Thanks for your suggestions so far, please keep them coming.

04-03-2001, 01:39 PM	#5
Hammer AKA "Dr. Evil" Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: South Fork Ranch Posts: 1,721	Another factor that you might face while working with a new car is availability of a Cobra. Considering a very limited run this year and many of them already spoken for, you might have a tough time finding one. I would say that if you "have" to buy a new one, a GT would be the way to go right now. If you are still considering used vehicles, a 98 Cobra in good condition would be a great baseline to work with considering the 4.6 DOHC and live axle... ------------------ "The Yellowjacket" Ricer 1: What the heck was that!? Ricer 2: I don't know. It looked kind of like a yellow SN95 Mustang. Ricer 1: Nah, fast SN95 Mustangs don't exist... Must have been a mirage or something...

04-03-2001, 01:48 PM	#6
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	You can do a lot for 12K on a GT, so let me muse on what I would do with $12K: 1. Rebuilt short block* 2. Big blower 3. Griggs or Maximum Motorsports suspension The short block depends on how much power you want out of the blower (fuel economy since this is a street car). The stock short block will handle quite a bit of power, so you probably don't need to do this... For the blower and installation, figure $4k total. Or $3500 plus your time if you install it yourself. $8K left... Are you planning on running slicks or drag radials? If so, some rear end work maybe a good idea. Bigger gear (3.73) $175 (plus installation), differential (TracTech) $385, 31 spline axles $385. Installation isn't too bad. So that's roughly $600-$700 out the door. $7.3K left... Suspension: Highly modified? Hee Hee. You can go NUTZ on suspension if you want to. First off, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS! I would suggest going with either Griggs or Maximum Motorsports and sticking with just that company for your suspension needs. In the rear, go with their torque arm/panhard rod, and control arms. For MM, figure $250 for the lower control arms, $330 for the PHR, $650 for the heavy duty TA (You'll need the heavy duty if you drag race on slicks with the power you'll be making). For the front, K-member, A-arms, coil overs. Their K-member hasn't come out quite yet, but I would guess about $600. A-arms, $150, cc-plates $200, coil overs (depends on brand). Okay, so coil overs in the front, atleast new springs in the back, suspension wise rear coil overs would be the last thing I do, so that's: 250,330,650,600,150,220,X= 2200 + coil overs. Labor costs me $40/hr. For ALL of this, it would be... maybe $1000? Coil overs? $1000ish. So we're down to $2.5K... I would upgrade to Cobra brakes. If you dig around enough you can find some for $4-$500 complete. Installation myself. So, $2K... A good set of wheels and tires will eat that up.. Or just sticky tires: $1.2K left. Do you need to pass emissions? If so, a H/X pipe with cats will run $5-600. If not, $2-$300. Cat back, $400. Shorty headers, $300.. So that pretty much does it. That would be a BAD * car! Awsome on the strip, even better on the auto-cross or open road course. By good, I mean you would be destroying pretty much everything. The other choice would be to tone down the suspension a bit and go for more power stuff. You could easily trim $1K+ off that and still have a bad * car. Brace the stock k-member, rack bushings, A-arm bushings, instead of swapping it out. Anyway, Cobra+$6K: Plenty for a blower! Figure $4k for the blower out the door, installation and everything. So $2k. Subframe connectors, axles, bushings for the rear, and a cross brace. So you end up with a car that handles pretty darn good thank you very much, and is making mid 400s RWHP and already has good brakes. Not too shabby. Of course... If you did start with a 97,98 Cobra you could have all of the above... Oh yeah. Screw the body kit. If you do half of either of the above, then there is no need for one. The car will be incredibly bad *** on its own. [This message has been edited by 97snakedriver (edited 04-03-2001).]

04-03-2001, 01:51 PM	#7
97snakedriver Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Blacksburg, VA Posts: 1,526	Oh Yeah! http://www.maximummotorsports.com/ http://www.griggsracing.com/ for the suspension. http://www.steeda.com/ is ONE place to find the rest of the stuff.

04-03-2001, 04:32 PM	#8
rbatson Guest Posts: n/a	I'd probably get the cobra and add a blower.

04-03-2001, 04:52 PM	#9
Mustang92 Drag Racer! Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Lake Worth, FL USA Posts: 757	I'd say get the Cobra. Put all your basic bolt-on's, rims, upgrade the suspension and be done. With a few bolt-ons the car will be capable of 12's pretty easily. ------------------ 00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Steeda Pulleys, Steeda Timing Adjuster, FMS 4.10’s, Flows w/turndowns, UPR shifter, UPR subframes, UPR adj LCA’s (not installed), Air Filter, Lakewood 70/30 & 50/50, Weld Pro Stars, Nitto DR’s, 253.8 RWHP/292.8RWTQ Best on DR's 13.09@103.92 (1.81 60ft) Best on ET Drags 12.91@101.93 (1.74 60ft) M/M 100 88 LX coupe X-FHP, 12pt Cage, UPR K-member, 31 spline rear, full spool (For Sale)

04-03-2001, 10:09 PM	#10
Lizard King midnightruns.com Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 584	GT GT GT. The March edition of MMFF has three modular 4.6 99+, done up with SuperCharger, Exaust, Fuel pump and tires... they run 11.7-11.9 on the quarter mile. With the left over money you can work on the looks of the car (like the Steeda hood and bottom spoiler). If your budget can move to 40K... than I'd consider that Cobra... ------------------ Lizard King, Bone Stock; 13.69 at 101MPH • Extreme Burnout •2000GT VS LS1 • Quartermile run •2000GT vs LX Stang

04-04-2001, 03:46 PM	#11
Ty'97Cobra Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: NC Posts: 308	I got the Cobra.... Now it is time to add the blower!!! I get compliments on the 'stock' cobra all the time. How many do you see driving down the street, compared to a GT or Z-28.?. I don't see many here.. ------------------ 1997 Black Cobra Convertible. #2788 of 3088 Mostly Stock 1988 5.0 LX Convertible -Work Car...Few Mods.

04-04-2001, 08:50 PM	#12
rbatson Guest Posts: n/a	With the Cobra you get better brakes, better suspension, better engine.... For a daily ride I'd get the cobra, bolt a blower on, add gears, h-pipe, and shifter and be done with it. Oh yeah, I will mention this... the insurance is hideous on the cobra. My insurance guy said I could insure a c-5 for less $$$. ------------------ Rick My 89lx(updated 2/21/2001) My 97 Cobra

04-05-2001, 08:25 AM	#13
SMOKE Old School ROUSH Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Stockbridge, GA Posts: 531	Another vote for the Cobra. Going new? -The Cobra is the best base to start with and better components than the GT. I know I own one. Going used ... Hammer is sopt on .. get the 98 Cobra that's been babied and un modified. Are you doing the modifications yourself? Would you some $money$. ------------------ K! Personalized Black 98 SVO Blown Stage II ROUSH without the side exhaust but some other cool stuff Dyno 303rwhp 338rwtrq Still working out the kinks!!!

04-05-2001, 10:06 AM	#14
King Snake Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Warner Robins, GA, USA Posts: 210	Hey rbatson, when I was shopping for a Mustang, I checked the insurance on both the GT and the Cobra and I was surprised to find the Cobra was MUCH cheaper than the GT. I asked them why and they told me that since there are fewer of them there are subsequently fewer claims against them, and the insurance rate is partially based on the number of claims. I am talking like several hundred $$$ a year cheaper! (for me) ------------------ '97 Cobra, Rio Red, MAC Cold Air Kit, 3.73s, NGK V-Power BBK H-pipe w/cats (Coming Soon!!)

04-05-2001, 12:35 PM	#15
Ty'97Cobra Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: NC Posts: 308	I would also imagine that the resale value of a slightly modded Cobra would be higher than a highly modded GT. You would get more of your money back if you were looking to sell sometime down the road.... ------------------ 1997 Black Cobra Convertible. #2788 of 3088 Mostly Stock 1988 5.0 LX Convertible -Work Car...Few Mods.

04-05-2001, 12:44 PM	#16
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	Either way you cant go wrong! Both are great cars with alot of engine potential. Both are Fords, how can one possibly do wrong? Although the NEW Cobras are really beggining to rattle GM's cage. you'd be surprised by the amount of horse power gained at the rear wheels with Headers, X pipe, and Two-Cat exhaust. ------------------ 64 1/2 Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, high side of 10.5:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. And to many others to list 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. 64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car.

04-05-2001, 10:09 PM	#18
rbatson Guest Posts: n/a	You guys must be kidding, my cobra is like a symbol 27 and the c5 is a symbol or 2 less. I'm gonna have to dig out my insurance papers now. I think I need to call some different insurance companies and get to the bottom of this. I'm paying a high premium.

04-06-2001, 12:39 AM	#19
46stang Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: moorpark ca Posts: 340	if i could have afforded it, i would have gotten the cobra. the only 2 real advantages of the cobra are the dohc motor and the brakes. everything else you'll either mod later or leave it alone. the motor is the best thing because you can easily make over 400rwhp, the gt takes a little effort to get into that hp range. get the cobra it's a better starting platform. jmo. p.s. i really enjoy my car now, but it basically makes the same hp as a stock cobra. so go figure. ------------------ 96 stang,ported 99 heads, 99 intake, 99 cams,Steeda power pullies, 373's, 70mm t/b, gutted maf, bassani x-pipe w/cats, ultraflow catback,iat mod, home depot ram air, k@n. fms spings, tri-ax shifter.