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02-04-2003, 10:25 AM | #1 |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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Changing fluids??
I have a 90 5-speed GT w/ 112k on it and still have the stock tranny fluid, should I change it?
Also, the rear end has original fluid, should it be changed? Another quick question is how much oil (if any) does the average stang burn? With 112k on my ride, I lose a quart in about 2500 miles, thats when I usually do an oil change. Normal? |
02-04-2003, 01:09 PM | #2 |
347ci of HORSE POWER!!!
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,416
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Yes, you need to change your tranny and rear end fluids.
The tranny takes about 2 1/2 qts of ATF. When you put in your new rear end oil, make sure you put some chatter fluid in it. This helps keep the rear end from makeing noise. That sounds about right for a stock motor with 112k miles on it. |
02-04-2003, 01:33 PM | #3 | |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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Quote:
E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
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02-04-2003, 02:26 PM | #4 | |
Gimme a Drink!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Also, my rear makes a constant whirring noise at idle,sort of an electronic type sound, do you think changing the fluid would solve this? Can you go into a little more detail w/ that chatter fluid? (Quantity to add, brands, etc.) In general, how do you go about changing the rear end fluid? |
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02-05-2003, 08:42 AM | #5 |
or '331 LX Eric'
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 2,142
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Originally posted by GhettoPop
Which ATF do you use? I use Amsoil, but you can use whatever you think is best. Redline? Is that synthethic? Redline is fine. And, yes, it's synthetic. Also, whats the best method to remove old fluid? Syphon? Is any flushing necessary? For the tranny, there are two plugs - one on top to fill and one on the bottom to drain. Just remove the bottom one and let it drain into your catch pan. Then use a $3 hand pump thingy-magig from your local auto parts store to pump in new fluid through the top. At this stage, with 112K on the car, I don't think I would flush it. Just remove the old and put in the new. That's me though. Also, my rear makes a constant whirring noise at idle,sort of an electronic type sound, do you think changing the fluid would solve this? This I have no idea about. Sorry. Can you go into a little more detail w/ that chatter fluid? (Quantity to add, brands, etc.) Ford Friction Modifier. They sell it by the bottle. Add one bottle in when you add you rear-end fluid. It's especially necessary when you upgrade to say an Auburn Pro or Eaton so that the entire unit 'seats' better and the springs don't 'chatter' as much as they are breaking in. Hope this helps. E
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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 40,750 miles 331 cu. in. / Tremec 3550 / BFG Drag Radials 12.22 @ 114.31 mph - w/1.89 60' |
02-05-2003, 08:49 AM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Saltsburg, PA USA
Posts: 468
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I change my transmission fluid every Spring when I get the car out of storage. I used Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF two times and the transmission seemed "noisier" than normal so I went back to regular ATF. Just my personal experience.
I used Mobile 1 synthetic gear oil in the rear. I was told by a mechanic at the Ford dealer where I work that it already has the friction modifier in it so there is no need to add the Ford friction modifier. It has been 3 years and no rear end chatter and the traction lock works fine.
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Scott 1993 Mustang GT Silver CC/Titanium Accent GT, Black Clothe interior. 5 speed, Hurst Competition Plus, 3 chamber Flows, 3.08's. 2010 VW GTI 2dr 6MT (no pictures yet) 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
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