Broken Wheel Studs...

AutoX281 · 03-23-2001, 05:39 AM

As this is my first post, I want to say that I've been reading this forum for a while and I think you guys are great....lots of useful info that I've used in planning what I want to do.

So now my question is if you guys could suggest a set of wheel studs for racing. And where I could get them. I've seen a few online, but don't know if they're any better than stock.

I've been autocrossing for almost a year, and I've broken, cross-threaded and just generally f***ed up quite a few studs swapping tires each time I race.

I don't use impact tools and torque each nut to about 90 ft/lbs.

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

------------------
98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

blue00gt · 03-23-2001, 12:20 PM

When I converted my 79 to 5 lug, I drilled the axles and put the studs in myself, which I believe I got from Summit or Jegs. I don't change tires as often as you, but haven't had any problems with them yet.

AutoX281 · 03-23-2001, 02:22 PM

I was gonna have a shop put them in, but now that you metion it, how easy/difficult is it to put them in myself?!? What special tools do I need?

------------------
98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

blue00gt · 03-23-2001, 05:07 PM

My friend worked at a racecar fabrication shop at the time, so we pressed them in. Not sure if you can just hammer on them or use a vice...

Ares · 03-23-2001, 06:38 PM

Factory studs suck bigtime. I have stripped 4 studs so far just by changing the wheels. I know when I put new ones in, I just pop them thr hole as far as they will go then spin the nut on backwards(cone seat facing out) and tighten nut untill stud pulled in tight. Depending on how much of a shoulder is on the stud sticks past wheel flange you may need a washer. I havnet had to fix any front ones only back, and the backones on my car can suck putting new ones in. The ABS ring makes it tight to get into hole.

As for wheel studs I would use ARP or Moroso.

------------------
2000 GT Laser red-5speed,MAC Cold Air, MAC 2 1/2" Cat-Back, 3.27gears, Pro-5.0 shifter, Weld Draglite's 15x5 and 15x10, 275/50-15 DragT/A's, 165R15 front
Items on car but not run at track yet-BBK offroad X-pipe, BBK Underdrive pullies

Best Quarter mile run to date: 13.50@99.97 (1.87 60')

[This message has been edited by Ares (edited 03-23-2001).]

AutoX281 · 03-26-2001, 03:00 PM

Thanks for the info... I will try the rear ones and see what I can do w/them, otherwise it's off to the professionals and let them deal w/it. I bought an extra set of ARPs from Jegs just in case I still have problems.

Any problems w/them sticking out too far since they are longer than stock?

Thanks again.

------------------
98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

03-23-2001, 05:39 AM	#1
AutoX281 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 27	Broken Wheel Studs... As this is my first post, I want to say that I've been reading this forum for a while and I think you guys are great....lots of useful info that I've used in planning what I want to do. So now my question is if you guys could suggest a set of wheel studs for racing. And where I could get them. I've seen a few online, but don't know if they're any better than stock. I've been autocrossing for almost a year, and I've broken, cross-threaded and just generally f***ed up quite a few studs swapping tires each time I race. I don't use impact tools and torque each nut to about 90 ft/lbs. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. ------------------ 98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

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03-23-2001, 12:20 PM	#2
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	When I converted my 79 to 5 lug, I drilled the axles and put the studs in myself, which I believe I got from Summit or Jegs. I don't change tires as often as you, but haven't had any problems with them yet.

03-23-2001, 02:22 PM	#3
AutoX281 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 27	I was gonna have a shop put them in, but now that you metion it, how easy/difficult is it to put them in myself?!? What special tools do I need? ------------------ 98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0

03-23-2001, 05:07 PM	#4
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	My friend worked at a racecar fabrication shop at the time, so we pressed them in. Not sure if you can just hammer on them or use a vice...

03-23-2001, 06:38 PM	#5
Ares Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Saxonburg, PA, USA Posts: 236	Factory studs suck bigtime. I have stripped 4 studs so far just by changing the wheels. I know when I put new ones in, I just pop them thr hole as far as they will go then spin the nut on backwards(cone seat facing out) and tighten nut untill stud pulled in tight. Depending on how much of a shoulder is on the stud sticks past wheel flange you may need a washer. I havnet had to fix any front ones only back, and the backones on my car can suck putting new ones in. The ABS ring makes it tight to get into hole. As for wheel studs I would use ARP or Moroso. ------------------ 2000 GT Laser red-5speed,MAC Cold Air, MAC 2 1/2" Cat-Back, 3.27gears, Pro-5.0 shifter, Weld Draglite's 15x5 and 15x10, 275/50-15 DragT/A's, 165R15 front Items on car but not run at track yet-BBK offroad X-pipe, BBK Underdrive pullies Best Quarter mile run to date: 13.50@99.97 (1.87 60') [This message has been edited by Ares (edited 03-23-2001).]

03-26-2001, 03:00 PM	#6
AutoX281 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 27	Thanks for the info... I will try the rear ones and see what I can do w/them, otherwise it's off to the professionals and let them deal w/it. I bought an extra set of ARPs from Jegs just in case I still have problems. Any problems w/them sticking out too far since they are longer than stock? Thanks again. ------------------ 98 GT Conv: K&N, Pro-5.0