C&L 's New Intake Plenum

xxxBlakexxx · 10-05-2003, 07:52 PM

First of all, "No", I do not work for C&L or any performance shop or auto parts company. With that said, I just installed on Friday C&L's new Plenum and a BBK 75mm throttle on my 2000 GT Conv. This combination is really something. If you have not considered this new Plenum, you must look into it. Coupled with the 75 mm throttle, C&L reports about 25% more air and about 20hp at the tires. T

Total investment is about $400 and you can easily do it yourself. The only problem that I had was getting the dam screws off from throttle position sensor. The entire job took about an hour and all you need is a few basic tools (8mm and 10 mm rachet). Instructions are pretty good, but they could use phosts.

I did apparently break the throttle position sensor trying to get it off (which was not evident at the time) as my car ran like **** at first. So I replaced it ($33 from Pep Boys) and I was off.

Acelleration is noticably better, especially from 4000 to 5500 rpms. Where before, my car fealt like it was done around 5000 rpms, it still wants to pull and I find myself watching my tach a lot closer to avoid redline. The car just breaths soo much better.

Give this combo a consideration, if you have not. I am going to add a C&L Mass Air Kit next and Tru-flow pipe.

Thanks!

96_4.6 · 10-05-2003, 10:02 PM

I have one on order but I have a 96 without the PI heads so is it worth buying a bigger TB? I know people are gonna complain why did you waste your money on that without the PI heads blah blah I'm dumb so what the heads wont happen til I'm older. So I'm thinkin for us poor 96-98 gt's when we buy the plenum 75 is too big should I get a 70mm TB to go with the new plenum? Cause putting a 70mm TB on a stock stang 96-98 will lose HP but c&l claims there new plenum cancels the lose in HP cause of there design of the plenum. Could this be a true statement, 99-current 75mm 96-98 70mm. I sound like a broken record and i know even with the setup were looking at very little hp but come on I want everything in time so help!!! Thanks

The Deuce · 10-05-2003, 11:52 PM

If you would be so kind as to get a back to back dyno on your car, I'll split the cost with you.

People who bought into Ben Alameda's ported stock intake thought the car was faster, but it lost hp on the dyno.

Seriously, I'd do it if it actually helped.

surfbeast · 10-06-2003, 09:38 AM

Even if the unit performs marginaly better it is a step in theright direction for aftermarket parts offerings. I wish they would have incorporated some type of cool look to the intake plenum as well. Anything would look better than the stock "BOX" with that pittiful pony on it. How does this new combo look under the hood?

xxxBlakexxx · 10-06-2003, 10:43 AM

Regarding the '96, I don't know what to tell you. I am really only familiar with my '00. You may want to contact Sacremento Mustang or someone like that.

Regarding the dyno, I believe I have to drive to Allentown which is over an hour away. One of these days when I get more work done, I will have the car checked. In the meantime, I will have to take C&L's word for it or other dyno results such as those found in mags. I fealth pretty good about C&L's data due to their reputation and it is pretty hard to lie about it for a company like them, as there will be soo many people doing their own Dynos in the next few months. But, I will cetainly be watching closely.

While I have no data yet to support my purchase, I can tell you that I am having a much harder time keeping my tires from loosing traction.

Regarding the look, not bad. I think it will look even better with the C&L Tru Flow pipe and cold air kit. I will take a photo and post it for you.

Blake

xxxBlakexxx · 10-06-2003, 03:37 PM

Attached (if I did this right) is a photo of an installed C&L Plenum and BBK 75 mm TB.

explicitone · 10-06-2003, 05:43 PM

there are dyno numbers on other sites people are seeing 8-10 hp at peak but are seeing the best gains in the low and mid ranges

must have shown improvments of .2 and 1.5 mph in the 1/4 on the same track conditions most having worse air

I will let you know how it works for me on the 10/18/03 when I hit the track again
this last time I went I ran 13.73@101 on a bad 60' 2.162

my best from last month was a 13.86@100 with a 60' 2.053

just for some back ground info before my c&l goes on but it will be with a 70mm not a 75mm t/b(already have the 70mm got it as a gift)

96_4.6 · 10-06-2003, 05:58 PM

I'm thinkin for the non PI heads a 70mm TB would be better then the stock 65mm only in the case of the new intake minus a blower of course but its a step in the right direction like stated above.

xxxBlakexxx · 10-06-2003, 07:30 PM

Explicitone, I look forward to seeing your results!

explicitone · 10-14-2003, 04:44 PM

I just got my c&l piece today nice (looking unit)

to keep testing fair im going make 2 or 3 runs without it( since I just pulled my front sway bar yesterday) and then im going to swap out the stock for the c&L and make 2 or 3 more runs so I should some numbers by sunday afternoon

xxxBlakexxx · 10-14-2003, 08:27 PM

Explicitone:

Please let us know. And if I remember you will be running still with a 70 mm TB? I just ordered C&L's Tru-Flow pipe. I like the look and is suppossed to be good for 2-3 hp.

Your install should be pretty easy. The only problem I had was with the TPS on the TB. If you are leaving the TB alone, this won't give you any trouble. I recomend having a deep socket 8mm and 10 mm on hand. It will help alot.

I am going to buy one of those damn performance computers this week to calculate times, g-force, and hp. Been reading some idependent info on them and I think I am convinced that they work. Dynos are great too, of course, as they are the standard, but they do not simulate things like air flow.

Blake

WHITE_SVT_SNAKE · 10-14-2003, 09:38 PM

As to the Post before this one, I did a little research on performance meters and i figured i'd share my results with ya. Basically what i came up with and this was around 3 months ago... Unless your willing to spend in the thousands of dollars and are willing to buy stuff from other countries.... The New G-Tech Pro (the Competition Model) is the best performance meter for the money on the market. Its probably the best $250 I have ever spent for my car. I highly recommend them... The Numbers I got were very very good.... They were only off about a tenth of a second compaired to the real track numbers... and that was only on 1 run out of about 5... the mph were dead on... the hp numbers seemed a little low but i haven't been to the dyno recently so i can't say on that.... Its the best looking performance meter on the market as well... Full time digital tach and all.... i love the shift light, saved my butt a few times.... Find out more from www.gtechpro.com ... Good luck

xxxBlakexxx · 10-14-2003, 10:14 PM

From what I understand regarding these devices is that they are very accurate for calculating net HP. They use a mathematical calculation for HP that consider the weight of the vehicle and the passengers. If you know the weight of a vehicle and the time it takes a vehicle to change speed over time, you have all you need to calculate HP.

These devices "absorb" the effects of road surfaces and wind resistance. Dynos do not. So, if you get say 250 hp on a dyno, the reading will be less when using a computer because wind resistance will impart force to try to slow the car down. So what you see displayed on the unit is really "net HP".

Definitions:

1. Max HP - HP at the Fly Wheel
2. RWHP - HP from the Fly Wheel minus transmission losses (this is what you get from a dyno).
3. Net HP - RWHP minus wind resistance and road resistance loss

One advantage of a G-Tech Pro device (or similar) is that if you make changes to improve the aerodynamics of the car (or make it worse), you will see it show up as an increase in HP or Net HP with no impact, of course, on RWHP. Kind of neat if you think about it.

WHITE_SVT_SNAKE · 10-16-2003, 02:03 PM

I agree with blake, that was a very intuitive post. They are very useful tools and you only have to pay for them once... whereas a dyno cost you everytime... and if i'm not mistaken running at the track cost you too unless its on one of those team day deals or whatever... Eitherway if u do a lot of modding and u wanna test performance after every mod and don't wanna have to spend the money, go to the track, or go to the dyno this is a great tool... It has more features than I feel like explaining and they are all useful not to meantion very accurate... Anyway Pick one up if you have the means...

96_4.6 · 10-16-2003, 08:14 PM

I couldnt wait to get a g-tech and then I did off ebay and havent used it once cause it would be just my luck to go on an open road with no one on it and do a 0-60 run and gte pulled over by some cop that was hiding, I'm gonna do it anyways we have subdivisions that are 1 mile long it rocks I'm gonna fly down there late at night!!! I wanna see what I can do in the quarter so bad

explicitone · 10-16-2003, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
Explicitone:

Please let us know. And if I remember you will be running still with a 70 mm TB? I just ordered C&L's Tru-Flow pipe. I like the look and is suppossed to be good for 2-3 hp.

Your install should be pretty easy. The only problem I had was with the TPS on the TB. If you are leaving the TB alone, this won't give you any trouble. I recomend having a deep socket 8mm and 10 mm on hand. It will help alot.

I am going to buy one of those damn performance computers this week to calculate times, g-force, and hp. Been reading some idependent info on them and I think I am convinced that they work. Dynos are great too, of course, as they are the standard, but they do not simulate things like air flow.

Blake

I had that problem as well when I got my t/b I just used a impact screwdriver and the rest was history

10-05-2003, 07:52 PM	#1
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	C&L 's New Intake Plenum First of all, "No", I do not work for C&L or any performance shop or auto parts company. With that said, I just installed on Friday C&L's new Plenum and a BBK 75mm throttle on my 2000 GT Conv. This combination is really something. If you have not considered this new Plenum, you must look into it. Coupled with the 75 mm throttle, C&L reports about 25% more air and about 20hp at the tires. T Total investment is about $400 and you can easily do it yourself. The only problem that I had was getting the dam screws off from throttle position sensor. The entire job took about an hour and all you need is a few basic tools (8mm and 10 mm rachet). Instructions are pretty good, but they could use phosts. I did apparently break the throttle position sensor trying to get it off (which was not evident at the time) as my car ran like **** at first. So I replaced it ($33 from Pep Boys) and I was off. Acelleration is noticably better, especially from 4000 to 5500 rpms. Where before, my car fealt like it was done around 5000 rpms, it still wants to pull and I find myself watching my tach a lot closer to avoid redline. The car just breaths soo much better. Give this combo a consideration, if you have not. I am going to add a C&L Mass Air Kit next and Tru-flow pipe. Thanks! __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-05-2003, 10:02 PM	#2
96_4.6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 417	I have one on order but I have a 96 without the PI heads so is it worth buying a bigger TB? I know people are gonna complain why did you waste your money on that without the PI heads blah blah I'm dumb so what the heads wont happen til I'm older. So I'm thinkin for us poor 96-98 gt's when we buy the plenum 75 is too big should I get a 70mm TB to go with the new plenum? Cause putting a 70mm TB on a stock stang 96-98 will lose HP but c&l claims there new plenum cancels the lose in HP cause of there design of the plenum. Could this be a true statement, 99-current 75mm 96-98 70mm. I sound like a broken record and i know even with the setup were looking at very little hp but come on I want everything in time so help!!! Thanks __________________ 1996 Mustang GT, AODE -Trickflow Upper Plenum -BBK 70mm Throttlebody -02 PI Lower Intake -March Pulleys -BBK H-Pipe -2 Chamber Flowmaster mufflers -3000 RPM Stall -JLT CAI with special K&N -MSD Supercondutor wires -180 stat -FRPP 4:10's *FOR SALE C&L TRUE FLOW INLET PIPE WITH K&N* My Stang

10-05-2003, 11:52 PM	#3
The Deuce Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 2,325	If you would be so kind as to get a back to back dyno on your car, I'll split the cost with you. People who bought into Ben Alameda's ported stock intake thought the car was faster, but it lost hp on the dyno. Seriously, I'd do it if it actually helped. __________________ 1997 Mustang GT "The Freak" - 13.80 @ 101.70, 2.07 60' 1995 Honda VFR750 - not much @ really fast (actual data pending.) 1964.5 Mustang 289 Rice Haters Club Member #13

10-06-2003, 09:38 AM	#4
surfbeast Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Maryville,TN Posts: 415	Even if the unit performs marginaly better it is a step in theright direction for aftermarket parts offerings. I wish they would have incorporated some type of cool look to the intake plenum as well. Anything would look better than the stock "BOX" with that pittiful pony on it. How does this new combo look under the hood? __________________ 98 GT / convertable -98 Saleen engine, Saleen appearance pkg. SHM cams,P&P NPI heads, and so much more!

10-06-2003, 10:43 AM	#5
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	Regarding the '96, I don't know what to tell you. I am really only familiar with my '00. You may want to contact Sacremento Mustang or someone like that. Regarding the dyno, I believe I have to drive to Allentown which is over an hour away. One of these days when I get more work done, I will have the car checked. In the meantime, I will have to take C&L's word for it or other dyno results such as those found in mags. I fealth pretty good about C&L's data due to their reputation and it is pretty hard to lie about it for a company like them, as there will be soo many people doing their own Dynos in the next few months. But, I will cetainly be watching closely. While I have no data yet to support my purchase, I can tell you that I am having a much harder time keeping my tires from loosing traction. Regarding the look, not bad. I think it will look even better with the C&L Tru Flow pipe and cold air kit. I will take a photo and post it for you. Blake __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-06-2003, 05:43 PM	#7
explicitone Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: racine ,wi Posts: 691	there are dyno numbers on other sites people are seeing 8-10 hp at peak but are seeing the best gains in the low and mid ranges must have shown improvments of .2 and 1.5 mph in the 1/4 on the same track conditions most having worse air I will let you know how it works for me on the 10/18/03 when I hit the track again this last time I went I ran 13.73@101 on a bad 60' 2.162 my best from last month was a 13.86@100 with a 60' 2.053 just for some back ground info before my c&l goes on but it will be with a 70mm not a 75mm t/b(already have the 70mm got it as a gift) __________________ RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________

10-06-2003, 05:58 PM	#8
96_4.6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 417	I'm thinkin for the non PI heads a 70mm TB would be better then the stock 65mm only in the case of the new intake minus a blower of course but its a step in the right direction like stated above. __________________ 1996 Mustang GT, AODE -Trickflow Upper Plenum -BBK 70mm Throttlebody -02 PI Lower Intake -March Pulleys -BBK H-Pipe -2 Chamber Flowmaster mufflers -3000 RPM Stall -JLT CAI with special K&N -MSD Supercondutor wires -180 stat -FRPP 4:10's *FOR SALE C&L TRUE FLOW INLET PIPE WITH K&N* My Stang

10-06-2003, 07:30 PM	#9
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	Explicitone, I look forward to seeing your results! __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-14-2003, 04:44 PM	#10
explicitone Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: racine ,wi Posts: 691	I just got my c&l piece today nice (looking unit) to keep testing fair im going make 2 or 3 runs without it( since I just pulled my front sway bar yesterday) and then im going to swap out the stock for the c&L and make 2 or 3 more runs so I should some numbers by sunday afternoon __________________ RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________

10-14-2003, 08:27 PM	#11
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	Explicitone: Please let us know. And if I remember you will be running still with a 70 mm TB? I just ordered C&L's Tru-Flow pipe. I like the look and is suppossed to be good for 2-3 hp. Your install should be pretty easy. The only problem I had was with the TPS on the TB. If you are leaving the TB alone, this won't give you any trouble. I recomend having a deep socket 8mm and 10 mm on hand. It will help alot. I am going to buy one of those damn performance computers this week to calculate times, g-force, and hp. Been reading some idependent info on them and I think I am convinced that they work. Dynos are great too, of course, as they are the standard, but they do not simulate things like air flow. Blake __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-14-2003, 09:38 PM	#12
WHITE_SVT_SNAKE Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Dublin, GA Posts: 29	Get a G-Tech Pro Competition As to the Post before this one, I did a little research on performance meters and i figured i'd share my results with ya. Basically what i came up with and this was around 3 months ago... Unless your willing to spend in the thousands of dollars and are willing to buy stuff from other countries.... The New G-Tech Pro (the Competition Model) is the best performance meter for the money on the market. Its probably the best $250 I have ever spent for my car. I highly recommend them... The Numbers I got were very very good.... They were only off about a tenth of a second compaired to the real track numbers... and that was only on 1 run out of about 5... the mph were dead on... the hp numbers seemed a little low but i haven't been to the dyno recently so i can't say on that.... Its the best looking performance meter on the market as well... Full time digital tach and all.... i love the shift light, saved my butt a few times.... Find out more from www.gtechpro.com ... Good luck __________________ 1996 Mustang Cobra Ported Factory Heads, New Performance valvetrain , BBK 62MM TB, Sean Hyland Spec Stage One Cams, Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch, Steeda Tri-ax, Mac Cold Air, Saleen Wheels (18x9 & 18x10), Among other things... "I Like anything Fast Enough to Do Something Stupid In"

10-14-2003, 10:14 PM	#13
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	From what I understand regarding these devices is that they are very accurate for calculating net HP. They use a mathematical calculation for HP that consider the weight of the vehicle and the passengers. If you know the weight of a vehicle and the time it takes a vehicle to change speed over time, you have all you need to calculate HP. These devices "absorb" the effects of road surfaces and wind resistance. Dynos do not. So, if you get say 250 hp on a dyno, the reading will be less when using a computer because wind resistance will impart force to try to slow the car down. So what you see displayed on the unit is really "net HP". Definitions: 1. Max HP - HP at the Fly Wheel 2. RWHP - HP from the Fly Wheel minus transmission losses (this is what you get from a dyno). 3. Net HP - RWHP minus wind resistance and road resistance loss One advantage of a G-Tech Pro device (or similar) is that if you make changes to improve the aerodynamics of the car (or make it worse), you will see it show up as an increase in HP or Net HP with no impact, of course, on RWHP. Kind of neat if you think about it. __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-16-2003, 02:03 PM	#14
WHITE_SVT_SNAKE Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Dublin, GA Posts: 29	I agree I agree with blake, that was a very intuitive post. They are very useful tools and you only have to pay for them once... whereas a dyno cost you everytime... and if i'm not mistaken running at the track cost you too unless its on one of those team day deals or whatever... Eitherway if u do a lot of modding and u wanna test performance after every mod and don't wanna have to spend the money, go to the track, or go to the dyno this is a great tool... It has more features than I feel like explaining and they are all useful not to meantion very accurate... Anyway Pick one up if you have the means... __________________ 1996 Mustang Cobra Ported Factory Heads, New Performance valvetrain , BBK 62MM TB, Sean Hyland Spec Stage One Cams, Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch, Steeda Tri-ax, Mac Cold Air, Saleen Wheels (18x9 & 18x10), Among other things... "I Like anything Fast Enough to Do Something Stupid In"

10-16-2003, 08:14 PM	#15
96_4.6 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 417	I couldnt wait to get a g-tech and then I did off ebay and havent used it once cause it would be just my luck to go on an open road with no one on it and do a 0-60 run and gte pulled over by some cop that was hiding, I'm gonna do it anyways we have subdivisions that are 1 mile long it rocks I'm gonna fly down there late at night!!! I wanna see what I can do in the quarter so bad __________________ 1996 Mustang GT, AODE -Trickflow Upper Plenum -BBK 70mm Throttlebody -02 PI Lower Intake -March Pulleys -BBK H-Pipe -2 Chamber Flowmaster mufflers -3000 RPM Stall -JLT CAI with special K&N -MSD Supercondutor wires -180 stat -FRPP 4:10's *FOR SALE C&L TRUE FLOW INLET PIPE WITH K&N* My Stang

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