Check engine light on a 2000 GT

GITY UUP · 04-23-2002, 02:27 PM

I installed a MAC exhaust system at 6000 miles (high flow cats and mufflers) and at 8000 miles I had a check engine light come on. I installed a pair of MIL Eliminators into the sensors that go into the cats and the problem was resolved. Now, the check engine light is back on at 15000 miles. I have disconnected the MIL Eliminators and swithched them around and this still has not resolved the issue. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help.

StoplightWarrior · 04-23-2002, 03:22 PM

Disconnect the battery and depress the brake for 30sec. Then reconnect and start your car. If the light goes away, but comes on later, it's likely your 02 sensors. If the light is still on, you may have a different problem. You can check the DTC code yourself by using the method described here

link to DTC codes

Good luck!

GITY UUP · 04-23-2002, 08:03 PM

By the way the weirdest thing happened to me after I wrote this post, my check engine light went off on my way home from work. I stopped at the gas station to fill up as I had less than an eighth of a tank left. The light then came on again when I pulled out of the gas station. I was reading in the manual that the check engine light will come on if the gas cap isn't "clicked" all the way to the right. The manual also mentioned something about not running 93 octane which is all I have been running since it was new. It claimed to try and run 87 octane for 3 tankfuls and the check engine light may go off so now the next few times I fill up I will run 87 octane. It's funny, my 88 5.0 when it was stock, hated 87 octane and would ping like all get out.

I'll try your solution StoplightWarrior and I'll let you know how it works. Thanks for the tip and the link to the codes.

GITY UUP · 04-25-2002, 07:42 AM

I ran the test codes this morning, here they are in order:

bulb
r61
EE02
DTC NONE
ENG 0000
M 0000
TAC 0000
FUEL 221
OIL 255
dEC 018
BATT 156
rhE0 000
RH5 000
RH5FF
RHO3EO
cr-h
lcl-h
tc5-L
PA Cd (All PA through PE codes not used according to link)
Pb18
PC01
pd3F
PEO156
PEI 000
PE2 221
PE3 000
PE4 255
PE5 000
PE6 255
PE7 255

I'm questioning the lcl-h, tc5-L codes any suggestions anyone?

StoplightWarrior · 04-25-2002, 01:20 PM

"DTC NONE" is all you need to look at. No problems there. I think the problem is likely your 02 sensors. I eventually had a chip made to fix that problem on my GT.

GITY UUP · 04-25-2002, 01:26 PM

I'm reading around the net on running the car with the check engine light on. People claim that doing this makes the car run rich which in turn makes the CATS hotter and can apparently cause a fire, I don't know how true this is.

Anyway, I'll have to take it to the dealer although I hate like hell doing that. Initially when the light came on before I installed the MILs, they told me it was my MAC cats. I hope they don't give me a hassle about changing out the bad O2 sensor. Maybe I'll just ask them to give me a new O2 sensor and I can change the bad one out myself as my inspection is due in May.

Thanks agin for the help.

StoplightWarrior · 04-25-2002, 02:52 PM

Don't take your car to the dealer. I don't think their O2 sensors will do anything to stop your CEL either. If I were you, (don't know what your budget is) I would get a dynotuned chip, and have them correct the CEL too. Either that or just order some MIL eliminators, which are much cheaper. My GT was in to the dealer several times during my CEL crisis. First they said it was my gascap, then they said it was the X-pipe, finally I just said forget it, and bought the chip.

GITY UUP · 04-25-2002, 03:15 PM

I've already ordered a new set of MIL Eliminators from Dallas Mustang this afternoon, I'll see if this resolves the issue. I asked one of their reps. if they get many defective MIL Eliminators and he stated that they rarely do, so I think your hunch on my O2 sensors are correct.

The only problem with the Dynochip route is that I'm planning on supercharging the car in a year when my Ford warranty is up and I'll have to send my current chip back to Kenne Bell. Will I be able to send the Dynochip back to Kenne Bell when the time comes? Also, when you order a chip what information does the manufacturer require, do they require a current list of mods (exhaust, gears, etc.) from your car? I'll go the chip route if I have to I guess, I've seen ads that list them for around $200-$300 dollars and they look like they install fairly easy in back of the passenger side kick panel. Who does anyone recommend to buy the chip from? Do you really see any performance gains out of these chips? Thanks again for the info. SLW, you've been a huge help. This board is a great resource.

gip99gt · 04-25-2002, 03:38 PM

Check your connections on your O2 sensors, mine was not connected all the on my car. I re-connected it and and the light went off. I have a MAC O/R H-Pipe. I thought that I had a bad set of MIL'S from Dallas Mustang but it turned out being a loose connection, check the Front Driver Side connection thats where I had the problem at...

GITY UUP · 04-25-2002, 03:44 PM

Thanks gip, I'll check it tonight.

GITY UUP · 04-27-2002, 03:58 PM

Where do I find the connections to my O2 sensors? Were you talking about the connections to my O2 sensors on the exhaust or in the engine compartment? If they are in the emgine compartment where are they located? Thanks for the help.

gip99gt · 04-30-2002, 10:16 AM

I don't know if you fixed your problem, I have been out of town and away from my computer. I was refering to the o2 sensor plug that connects the o2 sensor to your car computer, that connection was loose and caused my Check Engine Light to come on after I re-plugged it it went off...

04-23-2002, 02:27 PM	#1
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	Check engine light on a 2000 GT I installed a MAC exhaust system at 6000 miles (high flow cats and mufflers) and at 8000 miles I had a check engine light come on. I installed a pair of MIL Eliminators into the sensors that go into the cats and the problem was resolved. Now, the check engine light is back on at 15000 miles. I have disconnected the MIL Eliminators and swithched them around and this still has not resolved the issue. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for the help.

04-23-2002, 03:22 PM	#2
StoplightWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nor-Cal Posts: 1,311	Disconnect the battery and depress the brake for 30sec. Then reconnect and start your car. If the light goes away, but comes on later, it's likely your 02 sensors. If the light is still on, you may have a different problem. You can check the DTC code yourself by using the method described here link to DTC codes Good luck! __________________ Black 2000 GT Auto V2-SQ, Full Steeda G-trac Suspension, Baer Brakes, Saleen Body Kit, Corbeau CR1s, Chrome Cobra R's, etc, etc... 341rwhp, 338 torque 1994 Cobra #4343 Bolt on's only... Cofounder of Raccoon Racing

04-23-2002, 08:03 PM	#3
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	Thanks StoplightWarrior!!! By the way the weirdest thing happened to me after I wrote this post, my check engine light went off on my way home from work. I stopped at the gas station to fill up as I had less than an eighth of a tank left. The light then came on again when I pulled out of the gas station. I was reading in the manual that the check engine light will come on if the gas cap isn't "clicked" all the way to the right. The manual also mentioned something about not running 93 octane which is all I have been running since it was new. It claimed to try and run 87 octane for 3 tankfuls and the check engine light may go off so now the next few times I fill up I will run 87 octane. It's funny, my 88 5.0 when it was stock, hated 87 octane and would ping like all get out. I'll try your solution StoplightWarrior and I'll let you know how it works. Thanks for the tip and the link to the codes. Last edited by GITY UUP; 04-23-2002 at 08:51 PM..

04-25-2002, 07:42 AM	#4
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	Codes I got from the test I ran the test codes this morning, here they are in order: bulb r61 EE02 DTC NONE ENG 0000 M 0000 TAC 0000 FUEL 221 OIL 255 dEC 018 BATT 156 rhE0 000 RH5 000 RH5FF RHO3EO cr-h lcl-h tc5-L PA Cd (All PA through PE codes not used according to link) Pb18 PC01 pd3F PEO156 PEI 000 PE2 221 PE3 000 PE4 255 PE5 000 PE6 255 PE7 255 I'm questioning the lcl-h, tc5-L codes any suggestions anyone? __________________ I eat Chevys, fart imports and crap Mopars....

04-25-2002, 01:20 PM	#5
StoplightWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nor-Cal Posts: 1,311	"DTC NONE" is all you need to look at. No problems there. I think the problem is likely your 02 sensors. I eventually had a chip made to fix that problem on my GT. __________________ Black 2000 GT Auto V2-SQ, Full Steeda G-trac Suspension, Baer Brakes, Saleen Body Kit, Corbeau CR1s, Chrome Cobra R's, etc, etc... 341rwhp, 338 torque 1994 Cobra #4343 Bolt on's only... Cofounder of Raccoon Racing

04-25-2002, 01:26 PM	#6
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	Thank SLW I'm reading around the net on running the car with the check engine light on. People claim that doing this makes the car run rich which in turn makes the CATS hotter and can apparently cause a fire, I don't know how true this is. Anyway, I'll have to take it to the dealer although I hate like hell doing that. Initially when the light came on before I installed the MILs, they told me it was my MAC cats. I hope they don't give me a hassle about changing out the bad O2 sensor. Maybe I'll just ask them to give me a new O2 sensor and I can change the bad one out myself as my inspection is due in May. Thanks agin for the help. __________________ I eat Chevys, fart imports and crap Mopars....

04-25-2002, 02:52 PM	#7
StoplightWarrior Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Nor-Cal Posts: 1,311	Don't take your car to the dealer. I don't think their O2 sensors will do anything to stop your CEL either. If I were you, (don't know what your budget is) I would get a dynotuned chip, and have them correct the CEL too. Either that or just order some MIL eliminators, which are much cheaper. My GT was in to the dealer several times during my CEL crisis. First they said it was my gascap, then they said it was the X-pipe, finally I just said forget it, and bought the chip. __________________ Black 2000 GT Auto V2-SQ, Full Steeda G-trac Suspension, Baer Brakes, Saleen Body Kit, Corbeau CR1s, Chrome Cobra R's, etc, etc... 341rwhp, 338 torque 1994 Cobra #4343 Bolt on's only... Cofounder of Raccoon Racing

04-25-2002, 03:15 PM	#8
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	I've already ordered a new set of MIL Eliminators from Dallas Mustang this afternoon, I'll see if this resolves the issue. I asked one of their reps. if they get many defective MIL Eliminators and he stated that they rarely do, so I think your hunch on my O2 sensors are correct. The only problem with the Dynochip route is that I'm planning on supercharging the car in a year when my Ford warranty is up and I'll have to send my current chip back to Kenne Bell. Will I be able to send the Dynochip back to Kenne Bell when the time comes? Also, when you order a chip what information does the manufacturer require, do they require a current list of mods (exhaust, gears, etc.) from your car? I'll go the chip route if I have to I guess, I've seen ads that list them for around $200-$300 dollars and they look like they install fairly easy in back of the passenger side kick panel. Who does anyone recommend to buy the chip from? Do you really see any performance gains out of these chips? Thanks again for the info. SLW, you've been a huge help. This board is a great resource. __________________ I eat Chevys, fart imports and crap Mopars....

04-25-2002, 03:38 PM	#9
gip99gt Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Cedar Hill, Tx Posts: 19	Check your connections on your O2 sensors, mine was not connected all the on my car. I re-connected it and and the light went off. I have a MAC O/R H-Pipe. I thought that I had a bad set of MIL'S from Dallas Mustang but it turned out being a loose connection, check the Front Driver Side connection thats where I had the problem at... __________________ 99 Triple Black 5-Speed GT MODS: Flowmaster Mufflers * MAC O/R H Steeda Pulleys Steeda Timing Adjuster * Dallas Mustang Speed Cal * Dallas Mustang MIL's * FRPP 4.10 Gears * FRPP 70mm Throttle Body * Ford C Springs * Pro-M 80 mm w/filter * S-E-Racing Intake Spacer * Nitto DR's (Street) * BFG DR's (Track)

04-25-2002, 03:44 PM	#10
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	Thanks gip, I'll check it tonight. __________________ I eat Chevys, fart imports and crap Mopars....

04-27-2002, 03:58 PM	#11
GITY UUP Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Sterling, VA Posts: 43	Gip Where do I find the connections to my O2 sensors? Were you talking about the connections to my O2 sensors on the exhaust or in the engine compartment? If they are in the emgine compartment where are they located? Thanks for the help. __________________ I eat Chevys, fart imports and crap Mopars....

04-30-2002, 10:16 AM	#12
gip99gt Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Cedar Hill, Tx Posts: 19	I don't know if you fixed your problem, I have been out of town and away from my computer. I was refering to the o2 sensor plug that connects the o2 sensor to your car computer, that connection was loose and caused my Check Engine Light to come on after I re-plugged it it went off... __________________ 99 Triple Black 5-Speed GT MODS: Flowmaster Mufflers * MAC O/R H Steeda Pulleys Steeda Timing Adjuster * Dallas Mustang Speed Cal * Dallas Mustang MIL's * FRPP 4.10 Gears * FRPP 70mm Throttle Body * Ford C Springs * Pro-M 80 mm w/filter * S-E-Racing Intake Spacer * Nitto DR's (Street) * BFG DR's (Track)

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