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|  05-10-2002, 02:35 PM | #1 | 
| Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Colorado Springs, CO 
					Posts: 24
				 |  Crank bolt removal Anyone have any tricks to getting the crack pulley to not turn while I'm trying to break the bolt lose?  I looked at trying to jam a screwdriver in the starter ring gear, as suggested in the manuals, yeah right! I can barely see the starter let alone get my hand in there with a screwdriver.  I've been thinking about getting a long piece of metal, drilling a few in it, and attaching it to the pulley so that it would hit the ground, and I could then break the bolt loose, sound reasonable?  If anyone has a better idea please share it. 
				__________________ '97 GT Coupe-Laser Red MODS: Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda T/A, FRPP 3.73s, FRPP Alum. Driveshaft, Magnapack cat-back, MM C/C plates, Fox Lake PI heads, BBK LTs, waiting on brown truck with with my Comp Cams 197.3rwhp 272.8tq | 
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|  05-10-2002, 02:44 PM | #2 | 
| Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Texas 
					Posts: 330
				 |   This is from Steeda's website FAQ section for instaling Pulleys -----On automatic transmission cars, the engine must be held from turning by holding the torque converter. The torque converter can be accessed by removing a plug towards the front-drivers side of the transmission. (Consult a service manual for more information). Hold the torque converter from turning with a 14mm wrench.---- I believe on a manual you should be able to brace the wheels from turning and put the car in a high gear like 4 or 5 and that should keep enough back pressure on the flywheel to not allow the crank to turn... I don't deal with manuals much, so, if it doesn't work or breaks something, don't get mad at me... 
				__________________ // 1998 GT-Steeda Conversion \\ -- Sold // Now own 2001 F-150 SuperCrew 5.4L \\ | 
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|  05-12-2002, 11:26 AM | #3 | 
| Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Colorado Springs, CO 
					Posts: 24
				 |   Putting it in 5th was the ticket, thanks for the info  
				__________________ '97 GT Coupe-Laser Red MODS: Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda T/A, FRPP 3.73s, FRPP Alum. Driveshaft, Magnapack cat-back, MM C/C plates, Fox Lake PI heads, BBK LTs, waiting on brown truck with with my Comp Cams 197.3rwhp 272.8tq | 
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|  05-14-2002, 07:16 PM | #4 | 
| Registered Member Join Date: Jan 1999 Location: allentown,pa,u.s. 
					Posts: 780
				 |   Just to make sure, don't re-use that crank bolt.  It is a torque to yield bolt and needs to be chucked.  It will loosen over time if you try to use it again.  I think your new pulleys will come with a new bolt though.  If not, go to Ford and buy a new one. 
				__________________ formerly 96cobra89lx306 (96Cobra/softtop- Black&Tan, 3.73,almdrvsht,fancontrl,steeda sbfrmes,r-LCA's&shifter,eibachspgs,KYB's,FR-upper arms,Y2K Cobra R's,pulleys,Bassani X pipe(cats gutted),C&L 80mm,Stage 2 Clutch, polished intake and cam covers etc.. last dyno w/cats on-287rwhp. 93 Ford Probe Gt 4.39 stock gears and K&N (slower but turns) 2001 Green Ninja ZX6R | 
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