Diablo Chip in 00 GT

stangt00 · 12-16-2002, 02:34 PM

How many people are using or have used the Diablo Sport chip on theyre 4.6's? I just recently add the Mac Prochamber, offroad, to mine and it's a dog now. I took the chip out and it ran better. Anyone else have any pro's or con's with the diablo? The car ran great before the the prochamber. Took a SVT lightning with it (he sold it after that

) at the track running 13.27 @ 102. Anyways, strange thing is, after installing the prochamber (no cats) I never got a check engine light. Thought it was strange since I drove it for 50 miles and still nothing. So I disconnected the plugs to the O2's, no change in performance, no check engine light. Hmm. Took the Diablo chip out, still no check engine light. Each time I changed something, I reset the computer and ran the car. Not even a DTC ( diagnostic trouble code) came up with O2's unplugged. I put he chip back in and it actually seemed to run better than it did initially with the Prochamber. Does anyone have any input, ideas or whatever in this particular problem. Any comments on the Diablo chips themselves? The chip was custom Dyno tuned and with all the mods b4 the Prochamber I got 264 RWHP and 289 RWT.

Hammer · 12-16-2002, 02:56 PM

My general experience with Diablo chips are not positive, I seem to see too many "wierd" things happen.

Much of this may have to do with the "generic" setup on most of the chips. Since yours was dyno-tuned, it shouldn't be the issue though.

I'm assuming you are using the chip to override the O2 sensor code.

Please be aware that when you open up the exhaust, you WILL lose some torque as the back-pressure decreases. This is normal and you should see an increase in your HP numbers.

stangt00 · 12-16-2002, 03:46 PM

Actually, I was thinkin of going with the Steeda chip just to be sure since they guarantee compatability and serviceablity with ford. I always get the damn ******* tellin me "Well, you got an aftermarket chip in it so theres nothin I can do till you remove it". Atleast with the Steeda, I wolnt have that problem. As far as the check engine light, like I said, I know the chip wasnt programmed for it, and I took the chip out and it was the same. Also, my idle has always been erratic with the chip in. It hangs at 1000 to 1100 rpm when I dump the clutch, when decelerating, and sometimes it drops to 500 or stalls. The Steeda guy said it was probably the mass air. I also get alot of valve noise with the chip in. When I took the chip out, the valve noise was almost unnoticable. You think I should keep the chip since I paid alot to Dyno tune it ($100/hr), or step up to the Steeda. They said their chip would be a standard burn except for the gear ratio. Lastly, what do you think of the setup and Dyno figures I got? I was told they translate to about 330 hp and 345 torque, at the motor.

94GTConv · 12-16-2002, 04:19 PM

I have had nothing but good experience with my Diablo Chip and those of friends. Sounds like your problem is you had your chip burned for your setup then you changed your setup by adding the prochamber. Any time you add something new the chip needs to be reburned to match your setup. Otherwise what would the point be in burning the chip in the first place if it could handle any setup.

Hammer · 12-16-2002, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Actually, I was thinkin of going with the Steeda chip just to be sure since they guarantee compatability and serviceablity with ford. I always get the damn ******* tellin me "Well, you got an aftermarket chip in it so theres nothin I can do till you remove it". Atleast with the Steeda, I wolnt have that problem.

Actually, I wouldn't count on that. Some dealerships won't touch a car if it has a cold air kit on it. Doesn't make it legal, but that's the way it is...

Quote:

Also, my idle has always been erratic with the chip in. It hangs at 1000 to 1100 rpm when I dump the clutch, when decelerating, and sometimes it drops to 500 or stalls. The Steeda guy said it was probably the mass air

That's fairly common in modified cars. Even the yellow beastie's idle can vary sometimes and even stall. It's pretty rare but it does happen. You have to remember that the IAC is now picking up air through a totally foreign system than it was designed from the factory. The Cold air kit would be the first guess for the idle problem, followed by the chip, and then the MAF. All 3 or a combination could be your problem.

As far as I know, all "chips" (or ECU modules) can modify the same settings within the car's computer. As far as capability, one chip is not "better" than any other. The actual electronic unit inside the chips are different, so how they interface and make those changes may also be different.

Quote:

You think I should keep the chip since I paid alot to Dyno tune it ($100/hr), or step up to the Steeda. They said their chip would be a standard burn except for the gear ratio. Lastly, what do you think of the setup and Dyno figures I got? I was told they translate to about 330 hp and 345 torque, at the motor.

In general, I usually don't recommend an ECU module to someone unless they really need it, and from what I can see of your setup, I would never have recommended one unless your car is an auto.
(I don't think Speedcals can adjust the speedo for auto trannys yet)

And if you ever buy a chip, it should ALWAYS be dyno tuned (in my opinion)

In your overall issue, I'm leaning that your problems are a mix of induction problems and maybe a tune that you don't like. Some shops will dial your chip up to the ragged edge, which will push your setup for a few more horses, but also give you negative side effects that you may not want. I would recommend a conversation with the shop that did your tune.

Hammer · 12-16-2002, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Sounds like your problem is you had your chip burned for your setup then you changed your setup by adding the prochamber. Any time you add something new the chip needs to be reburned to match your setup. Otherwise what would the point be in burning the chip in the first place if it could handle any setup.

Good pont 94....

stangt00 · 12-16-2002, 05:17 PM

I know this isnt a tech line, but I have found message forums to be the best source of information than any magazine and I REALLY appreciate you guys takin your time to reply. I am still wondering what the deal is with the O2 sensors though. As for the chip, I am probably gonna get a new burn for it on the dyno. I will post specs when I get them, plus time slip after I run it. Thanks again.

94GTConv · 12-16-2002, 06:52 PM

As for your O2's if it's not that the chip has been somehow programmed to eliminate their effect, they might just be bad. It would explain your loss in performance.

Murdock · 12-16-2002, 08:40 PM

Your H-pipe is 3"??? How are you resetting the computer?

Murdock

stangt00 · 12-16-2002, 09:53 PM

It's not quite an H pipe per say. The Pro chamber uses a different design than an H pipe does. To reset the comp, I disconnect the battery for about 15 mins. They say it only takes 15 secs though. And as for the size, my mistake. It's 2 1/2". Thanks for pointing that out.

Titan · 12-17-2002, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by stangt00
To reset the comp, I disconnect the battery for about 15 mins. They say it only takes 15 secs though.

If you want to save time...that's not really necessary. Once the battery is disconnected, all juice/memory goes bubye...

Murdock · 12-17-2002, 06:58 AM

Actually 15 minuets is really not enough time for the capacitors to loose there charge. Remove the positive and negative battery cables from the battery and touch them together for a few seconds.

Murdock

12-16-2002, 02:34 PM	#1
stangt00 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Philadelphia PA Posts: 143	Diablo Chip in 00 GT How many people are using or have used the Diablo Sport chip on theyre 4.6's? I just recently add the Mac Prochamber, offroad, to mine and it's a dog now. I took the chip out and it ran better. Anyone else have any pro's or con's with the diablo? The car ran great before the the prochamber. Took a SVT lightning with it (he sold it after that ) at the track running 13.27 @ 102. Anyways, strange thing is, after installing the prochamber (no cats) I never got a check engine light. Thought it was strange since I drove it for 50 miles and still nothing. So I disconnected the plugs to the O2's, no change in performance, no check engine light. Hmm. Took the Diablo chip out, still no check engine light. Each time I changed something, I reset the computer and ran the car. Not even a DTC ( diagnostic trouble code) came up with O2's unplugged. I put he chip back in and it actually seemed to run better than it did initially with the Prochamber. Does anyone have any input, ideas or whatever in this particular problem. Any comments on the Diablo chips themselves? The chip was custom Dyno tuned and with all the mods b4 the Prochamber I got 264 RWHP and 289 RWT. __________________ 2000 GT 80mm Pro-M mass air, 24lb injectors, 75mm BBK T/B, K&N Filter Cold Air, 1/2" Phenolic intake spacer, Underdrive Pulleys, Dyno Tuned Autologic Chip, FMS Shorty Headers, Mac Prochamber 2 1/2" Off Road H pipe, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Steeda lowering springs. Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw shifter, Steeda Power slot rotors w/ Hawk Pro pads, 3.73 FRP Gears. Headwork and Comp cams install in progress.

12-16-2002, 02:56 PM	#2
Hammer AKA "Dr. Evil" Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: South Fork Ranch Posts: 1,721	My general experience with Diablo chips are not positive, I seem to see too many "wierd" things happen. Much of this may have to do with the "generic" setup on most of the chips. Since yours was dyno-tuned, it shouldn't be the issue though. I'm assuming you are using the chip to override the O2 sensor code. Please be aware that when you open up the exhaust, you WILL lose some torque as the back-pressure decreases. This is normal and you should see an increase in your HP numbers. __________________ Uncle Sam "What the hell is up with all the gauges? Calling Captain Kirk, your ride awaits... Phasers on stun...."

12-16-2002, 03:46 PM	#3
stangt00 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Philadelphia PA Posts: 143	Actually, I was thinkin of going with the Steeda chip just to be sure since they guarantee compatability and serviceablity with ford. I always get the damn ******* tellin me "Well, you got an aftermarket chip in it so theres nothin I can do till you remove it". Atleast with the Steeda, I wolnt have that problem. As far as the check engine light, like I said, I know the chip wasnt programmed for it, and I took the chip out and it was the same. Also, my idle has always been erratic with the chip in. It hangs at 1000 to 1100 rpm when I dump the clutch, when decelerating, and sometimes it drops to 500 or stalls. The Steeda guy said it was probably the mass air. I also get alot of valve noise with the chip in. When I took the chip out, the valve noise was almost unnoticable. You think I should keep the chip since I paid alot to Dyno tune it ($100/hr), or step up to the Steeda. They said their chip would be a standard burn except for the gear ratio. Lastly, what do you think of the setup and Dyno figures I got? I was told they translate to about 330 hp and 345 torque, at the motor. __________________ 2000 GT 80mm Pro-M mass air, 24lb injectors, 75mm BBK T/B, K&N Filter Cold Air, 1/2" Phenolic intake spacer, Underdrive Pulleys, Dyno Tuned Autologic Chip, FMS Shorty Headers, Mac Prochamber 2 1/2" Off Road H pipe, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Steeda lowering springs. Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw shifter, Steeda Power slot rotors w/ Hawk Pro pads, 3.73 FRP Gears. Headwork and Comp cams install in progress.

12-16-2002, 05:17 PM	#7
stangt00 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Philadelphia PA Posts: 143	I know this isnt a tech line, but I have found message forums to be the best source of information than any magazine and I REALLY appreciate you guys takin your time to reply. I am still wondering what the deal is with the O2 sensors though. As for the chip, I am probably gonna get a new burn for it on the dyno. I will post specs when I get them, plus time slip after I run it. Thanks again. __________________ 2000 GT 80mm Pro-M mass air, 24lb injectors, 75mm BBK T/B, K&N Filter Cold Air, 1/2" Phenolic intake spacer, Underdrive Pulleys, Dyno Tuned Autologic Chip, FMS Shorty Headers, Mac Prochamber 2 1/2" Off Road H pipe, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Steeda lowering springs. Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw shifter, Steeda Power slot rotors w/ Hawk Pro pads, 3.73 FRP Gears. Headwork and Comp cams install in progress.

12-16-2002, 08:40 PM	#9
Murdock Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 100	Your H-pipe is 3"??? How are you resetting the computer? Murdock __________________ LARZRACECARS larzracecars.com

12-16-2002, 04:19 PM	#4
94GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: So California Posts: 65	I have had nothing but good experience with my Diablo Chip and those of friends. Sounds like your problem is you had your chip burned for your setup then you changed your setup by adding the prochamber. Any time you add something new the chip needs to be reburned to match your setup. Otherwise what would the point be in burning the chip in the first place if it could handle any setup.

12-16-2002, 06:52 PM	#8
94GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: So California Posts: 65	As for your O2's if it's not that the chip has been somehow programmed to eliminate their effect, they might just be bad. It would explain your loss in performance.

12-16-2002, 09:53 PM	#10
stangt00 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Philadelphia PA Posts: 143	It's not quite an H pipe per say. The Pro chamber uses a different design than an H pipe does. To reset the comp, I disconnect the battery for about 15 mins. They say it only takes 15 secs though. And as for the size, my mistake. It's 2 1/2". Thanks for pointing that out. __________________ 2000 GT 80mm Pro-M mass air, 24lb injectors, 75mm BBK T/B, K&N Filter Cold Air, 1/2" Phenolic intake spacer, Underdrive Pulleys, Dyno Tuned Autologic Chip, FMS Shorty Headers, Mac Prochamber 2 1/2" Off Road H pipe, 2 Chamber Flowmasters, Steeda lowering springs. Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw shifter, Steeda Power slot rotors w/ Hawk Pro pads, 3.73 FRP Gears. Headwork and Comp cams install in progress.

12-17-2002, 06:58 AM	#12
Murdock Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 100	Actually 15 minuets is really not enough time for the capacitors to loose there charge. Remove the positive and negative battery cables from the battery and touch them together for a few seconds. Murdock __________________ LARZRACECARS larzracecars.com

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