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Old 08-10-2001, 11:18 AM   #1
Phantom5oh
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Post Head Porting...

I was wondering what would you do? I have a set of Windsor Jrs. on my car right now but I am looking for more power. I don't want to squeeze it or put it on the sauce, so I am thinking about having my heads ported over the winter. Should I just buy new better flowing heads, or have mine ported? I can't see a good reason not to just port the ones I have, I like the fact that they have small 58cc chambers. If I get something with bigger chambers I will lose compression and I am thinking I don't want to do that. What head should I get, or where can I send my heads to have them ported?

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Old 08-10-2001, 12:59 PM   #2
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Why not do your own head porting? It's really not that hard and you learn a lot while doing it. It's like freeing up horsepower that's been there all along, just buried under a bunch of forged metal.

Here is a great article about porting a set of Ford heads: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ng/index.shtml

Check out the Eastwood Company for all the supplies needed to do the job: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/cgi-b...E=default2.htm

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Old 08-10-2001, 02:17 PM   #3
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Is it really that easy? Has anyone tried to do it? I am a little nervouse about trying it on heads I need.

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Old 08-11-2001, 12:07 AM   #4
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it really is that easy especially since you have a decent head already. it takes a long time to port a stock e7 to get good numbers from it, theres just so much material to reomove. your windsor jr's are far better out of the box, so you'll just be cleaning it up mostly. taking the ridges out of the bowls. i heard the windsors were cast real rough so smoothing them out alone will help lots.
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Old 08-11-2001, 12:39 AM   #5
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It's a piece of cake. Get a die grinder and a set of cartridge rolls of varying shapes and sizes and have a ball. I ported on my E7's and it really opened them up. I completely did away with the exhaust valve guide bosses like the article says that I posted in my last reply and I think they turned out pretty good. I took the heads to a machine shop to have the valves done and the guy said for a first time port job they looked great, and he builds a lot of race engines. I just followed the article and just made the ports smooth to the touch. Any visible bumps or ridges were removed and any sharp corners were smoothed out. I even smoothed the short turn radius and did some work in the bowls (which was not as bad as everyone says it is). Good luck!

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Old 08-11-2001, 09:10 PM   #6
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Take off your heads and send them to Fox Lake Power Products. I don't know much about the Torker II intake. You might want to buy a Edelbrock Victor intake and chassis dyno the whole combo when you get it all together.
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Old 08-11-2001, 10:24 PM   #7
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Ask yourself how much power you plan on making?

Windsor Jr's flow or there abouts in stock form.

.100.... 054 cfm
.200.... 105 cfm
.300.... 141 cfm
.400.... 170 cfm
.500.... 186 cfm
.600.... 195 cfm
.700.... 201 cfm

Est. HP based on CFM
HP=.2575 x CFM (@ 28" of H20) x # of cylinders.

That'll give you the potential of the cylinder heads based on CFM (or there abouts)So about 415 hp or so if your combination took adavantage of peak airflow and everything was spot on. If you can pump up VE figures this could change without touching the cylinder heads. This also probably doesn't take into account things like combustion efficancy or the like?


If your looking for more power then I would say port them, The trick is to increase flow without losing velocity.

Just hogging the the heads out and pumping up flow numbers without regard to things like tumble, swirl, and velocity could actually end up hurting performance.
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Old 08-13-2001, 10:05 AM   #8
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Well I had the heads cleaned up a little when I put them on last time. Nothing big was done the machinist just removed some of the casting flash, but thats about it. Without rebuilding my whole motor I can't see making any more power without porting the heads. The car has been set up on the dyno and its a pretty stong little engine, but nothing to brag about. I just want some more balls, cause I am getting a little bored, but I can't afford to redo the whole thing again. The reason I have the Torker II is because I dont want to have a big hood (its a sleeper) and I don't think I can clear the stock hood with a Victor (its an 83 with a functional rear facing scoop) or do I have the clearence? My real problem is I have a stock crank and rods but I have ARP rod bolts. It only made 320 HP (flywheel) or there abouts on the dyno, if I make any more will I need a girdle? I don't want to grenade my baby. My cam is bigger than the Motorsport X cam, so it can handle almost as much head as I throw at it. What do I do? How much does it cost to port a set of these things if I just don't have time to do it?

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Old 08-14-2001, 07:25 AM   #9
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Has anyone ever heard of Cylinder Head Services, Inc. out of New Jersey? Are they any good?

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Old 08-14-2001, 09:17 AM   #10
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The guy at the local machine shop around here said he charges anywhere from $150-$500 depending on what kind of a port job the person wants. That's not CNC porting or anything like that though. Just a good hand job

Find a local machine shop that does porting and do some research on them. You might find a better bang for the buck if you avoid shipping charges to send them somewhere if you can find someone local. Plus the downtime may not be as bad.

I still say port them yourself. Even if you don't want to port your Windsor Jr. heads I'd say for the hell of it go find some E7's to grind some metal off of. It's a learning experience, and it was kinda fun actually.

MiracleMax is right. You have to maintain the original shape of the port to maintain velocity. Otherwise you're wasting your time and a set of heads, but it's not that bad really. You'd have to really get after it to screw up a set of cast iron offerings.

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Old 08-14-2001, 01:22 PM   #11
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Yeah I think I might play with some E7's I have 2 spare sets laying around that I am not doing anything with. They came off my old motors and are just collecting dust.

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