Headlight switch rewiring : Major help!

Gautam · 03-14-2001, 05:00 PM

Hi,
Ok, straight up, on my 1989 LX 5.0L my headlight swith is screwed. I can get the console/side lights and head lights to come on so it's not a wiring/fuse/electrical problem, just the bad switch unit. I tried another switch unit and that didn't work either (maybe that unit was bad too).

Anywho, here's my plan:

I want to get a switch panel (shown below) to control my headlights, console- lights/marker-lights (so basically two switches). I want to put the switch panel below radio btw.

I dunno how to tap into the headlight switch wires, but I did find this diagram (shown below) that shows the functions of the various wires:

Here's what the wires (from the pic above) do:

Black/Orange - Main Power for Lights
Tan/White - Marker Light Power From Fuse #4
Light Blue/Red - Switch Illumination Power
Black - 2 Wires Ground Circuit
Brown - 2 Wires Parking Light Circuit
Red/Yellow - To Multi-Function Switch

I suck when it comes to electricals so I'm totally lost in all this.

Any suggestions? Am I heading in the right direction? The car's a pain in the a$$ to drive!

Bye!
Thanks!

------------------
Gautam N. Lad
http://www.cubicdesign.com
http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/

[This message has been edited by Gautam (edited 03-14-2001).]

White GT · 04-01-2001, 02:02 PM

This look like a pain but not impossible

Ok. The best way you can go is to analyse each wire of this harness. In your post you told about you got the infos of wiring on Corral.net. But i'm not sure if you have a Haynes repair manual and a Volmeter. You need to get them if you want to resolve this problem. You can get them at canadian tire for a cheap price.
Haynes = 14$
volmeter = 15$ (but more you pay, Better using you gonna get in the futur. ex TPS setting.)

The first thing if this was me is to get another harness on a wreck mustang and trying to set them in serial with some tap- in connectors. And tring the other one with your headlamp switch. If you find that the problem is not on the harness. You just have to remove the tap-in connector and seal with some tape. Like this you let the original harness at his place and you don't have to cut wires.

If the problem is more important.

You have to search in the haynes which wire could be problematic. The headlamp switch is at the page 12-37.

Hope this help.

------------------

88 GT, K&N, Home Made Ram Air, Convertible Engine Mount, Dynomax Super Turbo, 180° thermostat, Energy sway bar bushings, Strut tower brace.
*** And Risen from the dead ***

My GT

My Web Page

Gautam · 04-02-2001, 12:04 PM

Hi,
Thanks for responding. I have tried several switch units and problem is still there, and I know now for sure it's not a fuse or a bad wiring problem, or the switch itself, but rather the grey harness/adaptor that goes into the switch unit (infact, right in the middle - between the middle two holes - there's a brown tint, which most likely is a burn from overheating.

I have a voltmeter, but not a Haynes manual (something which I've been thining of getting soon).

I will see if I can try another switch adaptor. What I don't understand is why this
is so complicated for someone to answer? I mean the switch basically makes contact with two (or more) wires that go into the harness, in order to make the lights come on. Maybe if I can find out which wires come into contact, I can make a switch. Or is it harder then I think it is?

Thanks!
Bye!

------------------
Gautam N. Lad
http://www.cubicdesign.com
http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/

SHaFT7 · 04-02-2001, 02:40 PM

they burn up because the foglights pulls the current thru that switch, and the wire gauge is too small to handle it, that's why i did the foglight conversion on www.corral.net so mine wouldn't burn up anymore....

(works great btw)

------------------
SHaFTed

Gautam · 04-03-2001, 10:07 AM

Hi,
Ok, here's the deal. I have an LX; and I do not have fog lights. Now one of my friends told me it could be a bad ground as a result of the lights working with the switch partially engaged...The light worked fine until a few months after I bought it. Out of the blue one day it stopped working.

I didn't get around to checking for any bad connections today cuz I'm all tied up, but I have the whole day tomorrow, so I will be taking the dash out and see if I can find any loose connections or anything.

Thanks!
Bye!

------------------
Gautam N. Lad
http://www.cubicdesign.com
http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/

03-14-2001, 05:00 PM	#1
Gautam Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Brampton, ON, Canada Posts: 298	Headlight switch rewiring : Major help! Hi, Ok, straight up, on my 1989 LX 5.0L my headlight swith is screwed. I can get the console/side lights and head lights to come on so it's not a wiring/fuse/electrical problem, just the bad switch unit. I tried another switch unit and that didn't work either (maybe that unit was bad too). Anywho, here's my plan: I want to get a switch panel (shown below) to control my headlights, console- lights/marker-lights (so basically two switches). I want to put the switch panel below radio btw. I dunno how to tap into the headlight switch wires, but I did find this diagram (shown below) that shows the functions of the various wires: Here's what the wires (from the pic above) do: Black/Orange - Main Power for Lights Tan/White - Marker Light Power From Fuse #4 Light Blue/Red - Switch Illumination Power Black - 2 Wires Ground Circuit Brown - 2 Wires Parking Light Circuit Red/Yellow - To Multi-Function Switch I suck when it comes to electricals so I'm totally lost in all this. Any suggestions? Am I heading in the right direction? The car's a pain in the a$$ to drive! Bye! Thanks! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/ [This message has been edited by Gautam (edited 03-14-2001).]

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04-01-2001, 02:02 PM	#2
White GT Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: At the north of the Maine Posts: 177	This look like a pain but not impossible Ok. The best way you can go is to analyse each wire of this harness. In your post you told about you got the infos of wiring on Corral.net. But i'm not sure if you have a Haynes repair manual and a Volmeter. You need to get them if you want to resolve this problem. You can get them at canadian tire for a cheap price. Haynes = 14$ volmeter = 15$ (but more you pay, Better using you gonna get in the futur. ex TPS setting.) The first thing if this was me is to get another harness on a wreck mustang and trying to set them in serial with some tap- in connectors. And tring the other one with your headlamp switch. If you find that the problem is not on the harness. You just have to remove the tap-in connector and seal with some tape. Like this you let the original harness at his place and you don't have to cut wires. If the problem is more important. You have to search in the haynes which wire could be problematic. The headlamp switch is at the page 12-37. Hope this help. ------------------ 88 GT, K&N, Home Made Ram Air, Convertible Engine Mount, Dynomax Super Turbo, 180° thermostat, Energy sway bar bushings, Strut tower brace. * And Risen from the dead * My GT My Web Page

04-02-2001, 12:04 PM	#3
Gautam Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Brampton, ON, Canada Posts: 298	Hi, Thanks for responding. I have tried several switch units and problem is still there, and I know now for sure it's not a fuse or a bad wiring problem, or the switch itself, but rather the grey harness/adaptor that goes into the switch unit (infact, right in the middle - between the middle two holes - there's a brown tint, which most likely is a burn from overheating. I have a voltmeter, but not a Haynes manual (something which I've been thining of getting soon). I will see if I can try another switch adaptor. What I don't understand is why this is so complicated for someone to answer? I mean the switch basically makes contact with two (or more) wires that go into the harness, in order to make the lights come on. Maybe if I can find out which wires come into contact, I can make a switch. Or is it harder then I think it is? Thanks! Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/

04-02-2001, 02:40 PM	#4
SHaFT7 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Lawrence, KS, USA Posts: 169	they burn up because the foglights pulls the current thru that switch, and the wire gauge is too small to handle it, that's why i did the foglight conversion on www.corral.net so mine wouldn't burn up anymore.... (works great btw) ------------------ SHaFTed

04-03-2001, 10:07 AM	#5
Gautam Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Brampton, ON, Canada Posts: 298	Hi, Ok, here's the deal. I have an LX; and I do not have fog lights. Now one of my friends told me it could be a bad ground as a result of the lights working with the switch partially engaged...The light worked fine until a few months after I bought it. Out of the blue one day it stopped working. I didn't get around to checking for any bad connections today cuz I'm all tied up, but I have the whole day tomorrow, so I will be taking the dash out and see if I can find any loose connections or anything. Thanks! Bye! ------------------ Gautam N. Lad http://www.cubicdesign.com http://www.cubicdesign.com/mustang/