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How do I program my ignition key(97 Cobra)???

I just picked up a spare key for my car. How do I program it without paying the dealer $50?
I got a spare for my 96GT last year and the Ford mechanic was able to do it for free by inserting the original key and turning it on and off several times then inserting the new key.

I tried that, but it didn't work. Is the 96 different than 97? Maybe I did it wrong...
How do I do it? Thanks

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T-Bones 1997 Cobra#6342 born 6-11-97
Wht/blk, Pro 5.0,FRPP 4.10's, aluminum driveshaft, FRPP throttle body, C&L 80mm MAF, K&N, Steeda U/D pulleys, Steeda timing adjuster, Flowmasters, s/f connectors, FRPP pro springs, BBK caster/cambers.
http://web.ndak.net/~topel/TBone1.jpg
My old 96GT

In the trunk on the driver's side under the lining there is a box (on the side, the one on the back is an inertial sensor). You need to take a paper clip and short the jumper. With it shorted you cycle the ignition from off to on a few times then leave it on. The door locks should cycle, then you're done.

97snakedriver

That is to program the remote, not the key. thanks for trying. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif

I have the 97 Ford Service Manual CD...this is what it says...

Quote:

Spare Key Programming

Note:
Service control modules require only one key to be programmed before allowing the vehicle to start. If a control module is changed, the technician must inform the customer to program any additional keys using the Spare Key Programming procedure detailed in the Owner Guide.

The system has capacity to store a maximum of 16 keys. After the initial key has been programmed or using any programmed key, follow the steps below:

Note:
Encoded keys must have correct mechanical key cut for vehicle.

l Cycle ignition switch from RUN to OFF with a programmed key.

l Within 15 seconds after this cycle, insert a new encoded key into ignition switch and turn to RUN or START.

l If programming is successful, the THEFT indicator will illuminate for two seconds and the control module will enable the vehicle to start.

l Repeat until all chosen keys have been programmed, up to 16 keys total.

l If programming is not successful, the THEFT indicator will:

-- Flash for one minute if no key code is received. The key is either damaged or is a non-encoded key. (Try a new key and start procedure over again.)

-- Flash for 15 minutes if key code is received yet engine is disabled. The key was not programmed successfully. Start procedure over again.

l If programming is not successful, possibly the new key was not inserted within 15 seconds, all 16 key codes have been stored, or the key is a non-encoded key. If the key was not encoded or inserted within 15 seconds, repeat procedure.

I tried this. The spare key does not turn in the ignition. It stays at off. Help me, please! I don't want to pay $50 for a spare damn key. Thanks!

Ah yeah... I was thinking about the Fob.

Just kinda guessing here, but if the key doesn't turn at all in the ignition then it was improperly made/ground. They didn't grind the same pattern (mechanical key cut as you mentioned in your post above), on the spare key, as the original key. Probably have to get a different one.

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1994 Red SVT Lightning #2019

[This message has been edited by 96GTS (edited 04-27-2001).]

Yeah, I decided to take the key back and have them make another, after posting this on 4 different stang sites and getting opinions. The general concensus is that the key should at least turn in the ignition from the 'off' position.

Right now, I'm in K.C, at my moms place for the weekend. So it will have to wait till Monday.

BTW, you should bring that Lightning up here and take me for a spin in it. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/wink.gif

Stick the key in the ignition turn it to the run position and the theft light should start blinking it will blink for fifteen mins then turn it off and do that 2 more times and your key will be programed it takes a little time but it beats paying the dealer to do it when it is just that simple.

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96GTRioredw/siverstripes Aeromotive fuelreg,SVO70mm,C&L80mm,Nitto's,NOS150,MAC uppper&lowwers,MAC ccplates,KennyBrown supersubs,Eibach Prokit,BBK treekiller,Flowmaster catback,MSD inline 43ghp pump,FRRP aluminum driveshaft,RamHD,STEEDA Quadw/adjuster,B&M ripperw/STEEDA stick,Autometer A/F ratio&Nitrous gauges on piller,FRRP 3.73.HELL YES I STREET RACE!!!!!!

Thanks for your help, guys!

I took the key back and had them regrind it. It worked like a charm. All I had to do was put the original key in, turn in to on, then off. Within 15 seconds insert the new key. Done!

I think the guy f*cked it up on purpose because he wanted to argue with me, saying that I had to have their mechanic program the key for $45. Hahaha. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif