MAF Screen Removed, SOTP Says 10HP

[cravnpup]

Ok here's what I did. I can't promise you will all get the same results, but for me it seems like my car picked up 10 hp. I know the SOTP feel means nothing, but I'd swear I have a lot more power throughout the rpm range. More low end torque and more high end HP. Trust me it works...

Step 1: Disconnect the battery. Take negative cable off first then the positive.
Step 2: Remove factory airbox and filter by undoing the metal strap, and the single bolt attached to the fender. Take the whole airbox and filter out so you can see the screen in front of the MAF
Step 3: Remove the fitting plate that attaches to the factory airbox and also holds in the MAF screen.
Step 4: Take out the screen, and rip or cut out the screen from the rubber/metal surround. You will need the rubber/metal surround to go between the MAF and adapter plate, so try not to bend it too much. A little bending is ok.
Step 5: Place the rubber/metal surround in the adapter plate and flaten it so it fits right. Make sure there are no forign particles lying around that could get sucked into the engine.
Step 6: Reattach the adapter plate with the 4 factory screws. Make sure it is tight.
Step 7: Reattach the factory airbox with filter with the clamp and fender bolt.
Step 8: Reattach both battery cables starting with the positive, and then the negative. (note: your alarm will go off at this point so be prepared to shut it off)
Step 9: Put the car in neutral and set the parking brake. Start the car and let it idle until it has reached normal operating temp (at least 10 min). Turn on the A/C and let the car idle for at least one min. Drive the car for at least 10 mi. This will allow the computer to adjust to the new flow, and reset the idle control. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP DO NOT SKIP!!!

I got the last step strait from the owners manual. It says if you don't do this your idle will suffer. It should be done after every modification...

Good luck..



------------------
2000 GT Conv. 5speed
Triple Black
Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1, MagnaPack Cat-Back, Steeda Tri-Ax
ET: 14.32@100.0
Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, and much much more

[Ripper]

Sounds like an easier one to try. I'll let you know what I think of the SOTP feel.

------------------
************************
1999 GT - Laser Red
K&N, Steeda pulleys, & Steeda strut tower brace
(Upcoming mods: subframes (bought), Bassani X, & FMS 3.73s

[97snakedriver]

Be careful.

Removing the screen or post, from the stock MAF has two effects.

1. Increased flow rate.
2. The computer doesn't know that. The computer calibration is based on the flow rate of the stock meter. Gutting it (removing the screen and/or post) means that the computer thinks there is somewhat less air flowing then what there actually is. So the computer sends a little less fuel for the air then it normally would. More air + same fuel = slight lean condition, which can mean some more power.

Unfortantly, its unpredictable. Sometimes it works fine. Some times very bad things happen. No good way to predict which.

I would not recomend this.

[cravnpup]

Yes, you're right. Please do not do this unless you are planning on getting a new MAF soon anyway (which is what I am doing). So far it has worked well for me, but that doesn't mean it will work well for you. I don't want to be responsible for someones car running badly. I probably shouldn't have posted it, but I was excited to get a nice gain from it, and I didn't think about the adverse effects it may have on some cars. Mine is still running strong, which I think is mostly due to the computer relearning process I performed. Thank god I did it right...

------------------
2000 GT Conv. 5speed
Triple Black
Current Mods: K&N, Mobile 1, MagnaPack Cat-Back, Steeda Tri-Ax
ET: 14.32@100.0
Upcoming Mods: BBK Longtubes, BBK H-pipe w/cats, and much much more

[Black99GT]

Back in 97 MM&FF did a dyno test and lost 3RWHP by removing the screen. Don't know how the 99-00 respopnd to it though. I'll wait till I get a dyno session.

------------------
Black 99 GT
3.73 gears
Mac power chamber
2 chamber Flows
Mac cold air induction
steeda tri-ax
Nitto drag radials
13.62 @ 109 (using a G-tech pro)
http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/MediaDL.cgi?Home_Video+movies+Black99GT-burnem+mpg

[cobrayankee]

So, if by removing the screen you cause a problem because you are sending more air through the unit, how is that any different than getting a larger MAF, such as the C+L 80mm MAF? Seems like it would cause the same effect on the computer.

------------------
1997 Cobra, C+L 80mm MAF, Pro 5.0 shifter, BBK Springs, Taylor Wires, 2 Chamber Flows, 3.73's

[97snakedriver]

Originally posted by cobrayankee:
So, if by removing the screen you cause a problem because you are sending more air through the unit, how is that any different than getting a larger MAF, such as the C+L 80mm MAF? Seems like it would cause the same effect on the computer.

The C&L and Pro-M are calibrated for their larger flow rates, so even if they are flowing more, the computer knows about it and compensates for it.

When removing the screen or especially the post, the engine is getting more air then the computer thinks it is and sends the proper amount of fuel for less air. So it runs a little lean.

Better flow is good, as long as the fuel is properly matched up.

[cobrayankee]

Ahhhhhhhh. I got it. Thanks!

------------------
1997 Cobra, C+L 80mm MAF, Pro 5.0 shifter, BBK Springs, Taylor Wires, 2 Chamber Flows, 3.73's