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Old 01-18-2006, 10:19 AM   #19
HoodStrype
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Huntsville, Alabama...a.k.a. "HuntsVegas"
Posts: 387
Arrow Re: Posi rear problems in the snow

Quote:
Originally Posted by surfsup
I’m not an expert, but the fish tailing and what have you, I don’t buy because both wheels spin at the same time, from my own experience my mustang did the side step shuffle on burn outs, but when I replaced my upper and lower arms, springs and shocks, added the quads and rear sway bar, my car went straight as an arrow on burn outs
Okay... show of hands who has driven a fox body mustang in the snow...

I have many times, but you have to be Extremely careful. There is no "theory" involved in it if you've done it before. Heavy cars drive well in the snow. Front wheel drive cars drive well in the snow (most front wheel drive cars have both wheels spinning, but they are pulling weight and the motor is sitting on the wheels).

As far as driving habits, I risk burning the clutch starting in 2nd gear most of the time to keep from fish tailing. LSD is not POSI. When one wheel begins to lose traction, clutches engage and the other wheel then kicks in. Look at your burnouts, one tire mark begins after the other most of the time.

When it kicks in on ice or snow, fish tailing follows. Now you have two slick tires on a car whose rear end weighs NOTHING trying to push a cast iron motor and you up front. The car trys to pivot around the front. Not saying that traction is any better with just one wheel, but it may be safer since you have 3 non powered wheels on the ground at all times. Everyone here has made great points, especially if we were talking about a big Lincoln or even a Civic... then it helps vastly.

Like I said theory plays no factor at all until you've done it. Hell I got stuck before in ice in a 93 GMC Sonoma- no LSD, but that's because the rear end is so light. I put about 4 or 5 cinder blocks in the back by the tail gate and POOF! Ice traction! LOL
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