Long block vs Short block?

mustang17 · 03-20-2001, 11:45 PM

In my search for a new engine I've noticed some builders do long blocks and some do short.

Are there any distinct advantages to either one?

The stock 5.0 block is a long block, correct?

------------------
1995 GT Black sleeper
Edelbrock 6037 heads,Edelbrock proformer intake,Edelbrock cam, 70mm TB,75mm pro-m mass air,Taylor wires, Underdrive pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter
Flowmaster cat-back, Eibach pro rate springs
lower control arms
3.73 gear Centerforce clutch

gray87GT · 03-20-2001, 11:53 PM

Long and short block refer to how complete the engine is. Short blocks are a block, bearings, crank, rods, fuel pump,pistons....I am not sure about a cam. I know they don't have heads or intake.

------------------
87 GT, BBK shorty's, offroad H-pipe, ASP pullies, 70mm T.B., Cobra intake, no smog pump, Windsor Jr irons, Comp cams 1.6 rollers, F303 cam, H.D. export W.P., Tri-Ax, FMS subframes, Battle boxes, SSM liftbars, FMS King Cobra clutch, mass-air conversion, 73mm C&L, 24lb injectors, BBK fuel pressure regulator, 3/8" no EGR spacer, and other piddly sh*t.

03-21-2001, 12:04 AM

A short block is the lower end of the engine completely assembled, a long block is a short block plus cylinder heads, and all the valvetrain stuff. Ford Racing Parts short blocks are the crank/rods/pistons/rings and bearings in a machined block, camshaft and timing chain (not sure about oil pump) with freeze plugs installed. The long block is plus cylinder heads, pushrods, valves/springs/keepers/seals retainers, etc. and in ford's case it usually also has an oil pan, front cover, water pump, intake manifold (depending on engine) and is designed as an easy bolt in. The advantages to these is that with a short block you can add your own heads and alot of other stuff, the advantage to most long blocks is that most are a bolt in type deal. The advantage also is that if you get a short block it's cheaper but you have to get more parts yourself so the short block is cheaper, whereas a long block is a little more expensive because there's more parts. I think in terms of warranties, there's more likely of a chance to get a good warranty on a long block whereas a short block might be unlikely to have one. I've heard that most rebuilt long blocks have little pop out plugs in the freeze plugs that indicate when an engine overheats, but i've also heard of them indicating an overheat at like 100* F temp, so it all depends. Usually the best engines are engines made by the actual auto manufacturers but they cost more. Another good place to buy an engine is a well known race engine builder. If i were you i wouldn't get a "discount" engine rebuild because you really do get what you pay for.

------------------
'84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon

03-21-2001, 12:40 AM

I had to ask my mechanic at work this question many years ago. I was trying to figure out how the different blocks could fit in the same spot being one was shorter and one longer

. Shortblock is just the block itself with the internals. Longblock has the assembled heads and sometimes oil pan and other add ons. A complete engine is complete. The terminology can be a bit confusing, huh?

mustang17 · 03-21-2001, 01:06 AM

Holy crap I was way off! I knew that some engines come with heads, intake, cam and some didn't. I thought that I was dealing with two types of blocks! Thanks for the info guys.

The builder I think I'm going to use is close by. I don't trust some of the large companies.

Will someone with a strong consept of engine prices and quality check this out? www.golensengineservice.com

What do you think of the warranty?

03-20-2001, 11:45 PM	#1
mustang17 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Concord, MA, USA Posts: 264	Long block vs Short block? In my search for a new engine I've noticed some builders do long blocks and some do short. Are there any distinct advantages to either one? The stock 5.0 block is a long block, correct? ------------------ 1995 GT Black sleeper Edelbrock 6037 heads,Edelbrock proformer intake,Edelbrock cam, 70mm TB,75mm pro-m mass air,Taylor wires, Underdrive pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter Flowmaster cat-back, Eibach pro rate springs lower control arms 3.73 gear Centerforce clutch

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03-20-2001, 11:53 PM	#2
gray87GT Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Minnesota Posts: 177	Long and short block refer to how complete the engine is. Short blocks are a block, bearings, crank, rods, fuel pump,pistons....I am not sure about a cam. I know they don't have heads or intake. ------------------ 87 GT, BBK shorty's, offroad H-pipe, ASP pullies, 70mm T.B., Cobra intake, no smog pump, Windsor Jr irons, Comp cams 1.6 rollers, F303 cam, H.D. export W.P., Tri-Ax, FMS subframes, Battle boxes, SSM liftbars, FMS King Cobra clutch, mass-air conversion, 73mm C&L, 24lb injectors, BBK fuel pressure regulator, 3/8" no EGR spacer, and other piddly sh*t.

03-21-2001, 12:04 AM	#3
84stang83zephyr Guest Posts: n/a	A short block is the lower end of the engine completely assembled, a long block is a short block plus cylinder heads, and all the valvetrain stuff. Ford Racing Parts short blocks are the crank/rods/pistons/rings and bearings in a machined block, camshaft and timing chain (not sure about oil pump) with freeze plugs installed. The long block is plus cylinder heads, pushrods, valves/springs/keepers/seals retainers, etc. and in ford's case it usually also has an oil pan, front cover, water pump, intake manifold (depending on engine) and is designed as an easy bolt in. The advantages to these is that with a short block you can add your own heads and alot of other stuff, the advantage to most long blocks is that most are a bolt in type deal. The advantage also is that if you get a short block it's cheaper but you have to get more parts yourself so the short block is cheaper, whereas a long block is a little more expensive because there's more parts. I think in terms of warranties, there's more likely of a chance to get a good warranty on a long block whereas a short block might be unlikely to have one. I've heard that most rebuilt long blocks have little pop out plugs in the freeze plugs that indicate when an engine overheats, but i've also heard of them indicating an overheat at like 100* F temp, so it all depends. Usually the best engines are engines made by the actual auto manufacturers but they cost more. Another good place to buy an engine is a well known race engine builder. If i were you i wouldn't get a "discount" engine rebuild because you really do get what you pay for. ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 T5, FMS aluminum radiator & 180* thermostat, 1 5/8 shortys/2.5" duals, '88 GT tail lights and wheels, Holley 4160 4 BBL, smog pump idler, more coming soon

03-21-2001, 12:40 AM	#4
rbatson Guest Posts: n/a	I had to ask my mechanic at work this question many years ago. I was trying to figure out how the different blocks could fit in the same spot being one was shorter and one longer . Shortblock is just the block itself with the internals. Longblock has the assembled heads and sometimes oil pan and other add ons. A complete engine is complete. The terminology can be a bit confusing, huh?

03-21-2001, 01:06 AM	#5
mustang17 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Concord, MA, USA Posts: 264	Holy crap I was way off! I knew that some engines come with heads, intake, cam and some didn't. I thought that I was dealing with two types of blocks! Thanks for the info guys. The builder I think I'm going to use is close by. I don't trust some of the large companies. Will someone with a strong consept of engine prices and quality check this out? www.golensengineservice.com What do you think of the warranty?