need mod suggestions 200gt
 

I have just purchased a new 2000GT (black, leather, 17" wheels, 5spd)and am seeking info on mod options. I would like to stay with your average Z28 or trans am. Do I need to reach 300hp? if so whats the easiest/cheapest way? I would prefer not to have to fork out 5K to have a supercharger installed, but I will if I have to. Turbos? No2? This car is my daily driver in Austin, Tx, it it usually very hot here so I need my a/c!

On the 99 newer GT's there is no safe way to run nitrous so I would cut that off your list. Unless NOS performs a miracle while I write this. To keep up with or beat your average LS1 car your going to need to run in the low 13 second range. Look at my sig for the basics that you can do to add power. Without the drag suspension and 17" drag radials I was running in the 13.2-13.4 range.

If you can afford it go with a SC then you'll be able to deal with the majority of LS1's. Personally I'm going with a twin turbo set up hopefully by the end of the year and plan on being in the 10 second zone.

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00 GT, MAC Offroad H, Steeda Pulleys, Steeda Timing Adjuster, FMS 4.10’s, Flows w/turndowns, UPR shifter, UPR subframes, UPR LCA’s, Air Filter, Lakewood 70/30 & 50/50, Weld Pro Stars, Nitto DR’s, 253.8RWHP/292.8RWTQ
Best on DR's 13.09@103.92 (1.81 60ft)
Best on ET Drags 12.99@104.60 (1.67 60ft)
M/M 100
88 LX coupe X-FHP, 12pt Cage, UPR K-member, 31 spline rear, full spool…

You said you didnt want to go the supercharger route, but you would if you had to. In order to keep up with or beat modded LS1's, you have to. Think about it this way: You could do all the bolt ons: Cold Air, Throttle body, headers, x-pipe, cat back, gears, pullies, timing adjuster, and you spend like $2500-3000 already, and youre still not even that close to where a supercharger would put you. If I could afford it, Id do it in a second. Bolt on a supercharger, and youre making ~350rwhp, and stomping stock LS1's. Good luck.

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Black 2000 GT
Magnaflow Catback, K&N

Well in my case I had a bad accident because I lost control of the stang. As you might notice the back sways a lot plus cornering is not very good.
Before I added more power I installed 2 kits from steeda called G-Track stage 1 and 2. It cost about $1200 but I feel so much confident and secure.
You got to remember that there is no sense on having 1000hp when the tires will just keep spinning. You got to fix the suspension so does tires stay in the ground.
.............................................99GT… rear sway bar (adjustable), rear lower control arm, traction bars, tokiko struts ilumina 5 position, tokiko shocks, strut tower brace, caster camber plates, racing lower springs, 3:73, underdrive pulleys. NOW I WILL ADD POWER.

I spent about $1,200 total so far for my mods (Offroad H, Flowmasters, Pullies, Timing Adjuster, Gears installed, Shifter and K&N) and with a little traction keep right up with LS1's.

ROCKET99: did you get all those suspension mods installed for $1200 or was that just parts? How did those mods affect drive feel and 1/4 mi time if at all? Do all those adjustable parts stay put or do you have to readjust/tighten often? Wher can i buy these parts?

This is what I have done so far.

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2000 GT Laser red-5speed,MAC Cold Air, MAC 2 1/2" Cat-Back, 3.27gears, Pro-5.0 shifter, Weld Draglite's 15x5 and 15x10, 275/50-15 DragT/A's, 165R15 front
Items on car but not run at track yet-BBK offroad X-pipe, BBK Underdrive pullies

Best Quarter mile run to date: 13.50@99.97 (1.87 60')

Some peoples stangs respond better than others to minor bolt ons. Most stangs, however will respond very well to a blower, IMO. Your car is awesome, but rare, you must admit. Im just saying that if this guy just cuts the crap, so to speak, and puts a blower on with a good dyno tune, he'll get great performance, almost for sure, without having to experiment with a bunch of random mods.

For people like me, on the other hand, Im gonna be doing things similar to you, cause of cash/warranty issues. Hopefully with similar results, but Im not gonna get my hopes up too much.

"BARK3D" That is just the prize for the parts. Check steeda.com
The way the adjustment works for the struts-chocks is from 1-5, 1 meaning the hardest (use only for the racing track) where the tires will get all the traction they need to grab then pavement.
#5 is the softest, use if you are going on a long trip. I normally drive it between 2 and 3 (I want the car to be ready for any chevy), to adjust all you need is to open the hood and a small flat screw driver to turn the knobs and the same thing for the shocks just open the trunk and do the same.
For the rear sway bar you will need to get under the car and adjust the nuts with a 15 wrench (is all about having fun doing adjustments).
Lowering the car was the best thing though, now I can make a sharp corner fast without having the rear going all over the place.
Have fun doing "mods" and remember keep does tires on the ground.

StoplightWarrior, I agree with you about the blower it's much easier to put one on to get the performance he is looking for. I was just pointing out that you don't necessarily need a power adder to keep up with them. My car is more drag strip oriented which is why my times are so low.

Just a heads up there was a kid at the track last night with a 2001 Z28 with just a whisper lid, cutout exhaust, underdrive pulleys and pulled the interior and went 12.38@114+MPH.

That might be the scariest thing Ive heard in a while...

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Black 2000 GT
Magnaflow Catback, K&N

Also forget that kid was running Nitto Drag Radials cutting 2.0 short times.

The most effective 1/4 mile performance mods you can do is to get gears (at least 3.73s), X-pipe, pulleys, timing adjuster, and suspension. Throttle bodies, cat-back system, and cold air are not worth the $$ for the marginal gains, if any, you would see. IMHO.

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1999 GT - Laser Red
K&N, Steeda pulleys, Steeda strut tower brace & Tri-ax
(Upcoming mods: subframes (bought), Bassani X (next), & FMS 3.73s

RIPPER: thanks for the input. After pouring over this for about 2 weeks, I came to nearly the same conclusion you did for beginning my mods-3.73 gears, pulleys, shifter (which shifter, so many!! I would like a stock but trick look),suspension upgrade, and air filter upgrade. Can anyone give me some real-world descriptions of how the gears affect the way the car feels/drives? Also, Exactly how do the pulleys affect the a/c operation on very hot days? I appreciate all of the input I have received from members of this website, don't worry, I'll get a blower eventually!! I am sort of stoked today, this morning some high school kids pulled up next to me at a light in a 95'(I think 95') Cobra and started talking smack with the throttle. My reaction time was killer (older age and concentration-no slim shady jammin' to distract me) and I jumped out ahead when the light turned green, was 1 1/2 lengths ahead by the time I barked 2nd. He caught up a little through 2nd but by 3rd I was gone and he had to shut off!! It was a blast, especially to win in a slower car (just what is the difference in performance between a stock 00 GT 5spd and a 95 cobra anyway?) I cant wait to get the mods and start hunting down some others, I have noticed so many hot-rod prowlers in my town since I have started driving a mustang I know they are all just waiting for a race!

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Since your in Texas, I would probably leave off the pullies but then definitely get a timing adjuster from Steeda. As far as shifters go, check out the Steeda Tri-ax but a lot of guys like the Pro 5.0 shifter also. Gears are going to get you into the power range (higher rpms) of your motor quicker. Your car will run a few hundred RPMs higher than your stock 3.27 gears at equivalent MPH. So, you'll likely shift gears earlier/quicker during normal driving and most guys don't see much change in their fuel economy. I wish I di this mod first but now I'm going to wait until the warranty runs. Pay attention to various posts about dealers as they do not act the same towards mods. They may say you've voided your warranty.