Bought nitrous Express kit, need pointers

bark3rd · 07-25-2001, 09:38 AM

I have broken down and purchased my latest round of mods including the Nitrous express kit w/purge, Megabite Jr LCA's, and Nitto drag radials. I am looking for any tips for installing the nitrous kit. I trust experience over incomplete instructions that tend to come with these things. Have any of you tried it? Should I go to colder plugs to run over 100 shot? I also have the ability to retard the timing w/ the Steeda adjuster. I want to be safe but also would like to run strong with engine only when not using the nitrous.

------------------
Black 2000 GT,5 spd,17" wheels,4:10's,flowmasters Steeda pulleys, timing adjuster, K&N filter

96Sidewinder · 07-25-2001, 11:37 AM

Bark,
Although, i don't use the NOS, I asked a very similiar question....The information below is from Scott Winger(superstallions). He gave one of the most informative information I have seen, also this Months MM&FF Had a install on a 99' GT owned by Susan Bodnar, Hope it helps.....
Chris

Scott Winger
"I believe VERY strongly in playing it safe, whether you go blower or N2O.

N2O is a great choice if you want to build up your NA car to pretty quick, and have the extra kick when you need it!\

Not saying you need ALL this on yours, but I would HIGHLY recommend everything.

5171eo WITH TPS micro switch. This allows the Nitrous to spray only when in Full throttle position but instead of calulating this based on Throttle plate position it is using a switch that goes right into your wiring harness ..... a little more accurate.

Also built in is a fuel pressure safety switch allowing the nitrous to spray only when 90psi is achieved.

MSD window switch or Mallory window switch. Set this window switch around 3300 on the bottom end and 6800 on the top end. This means that even when you are in "Full Throttle Mode" if you are not between those 2 rpms, your Nitrous will NOT spray. The bottom end safety will stop any posibility of puddleing in your intake, and the top end will stop the nitrous before fuel shutoff should you hit your limitter.

OK - next ..... A bottle warmer is a must to make sure adequate heat is generated to your bottle so that adequate pressure is achieved. Pressure = HP. if pressure is low (ie. 700psi) you will have very little benefit and you are burning your Nitrous for nothing.

Wire your warmer with power from an ignition switch so when you shut off the car you have ZERO power to the heater!

ADD-ONs .......

Remote bottle opener is nice so you don't have to stop the car and open your bottle if you forgot to before you got in.

Purge - so you look COOL, and also clear the lines of any posible air. Plus before you leave your car you can purge the system so it's not pressurized. Also if your pressure gets on the high side it's another easy way to lower it, with an engine purge should be in front of a church or something.

Bottle guage - so you can tell all the time if you are at optimum psi in your bottle.

Nitrous filter. This goes just before the jet at your inlet, to make sure any crap gets filtered before hitting your jet. Keep in mind that extra flanges and connectors will be needed - it doesn't just fit right in between - stupid NOS people. You will also need and extra 1 foot line to go after the filter to the jet!

Stainless lines can be purchased for your purge (should you have one), but this is VERY complicated and pricey if you want twin purges (For your snorkles) as you will need tons of extra flanges and hoses and connectors to get it to work.

Switches - mounted to control the opener/warmer/ and purge.

My system for a twin bottle twin purge twin warmers/blankets/ with 5 switches cost around $2300.00 usd. Yes, call it the Rolls Royce version.

But the extra bottle setup increased that a LOT. The purge too.

I hope this has helped in some way!

To get around the LOSS of power, I had a CJ chip ready to go in. It has 4 programs on one chip and you get a switch with it. I would have installed it in the ashtray. 2 NA programs ... one NOS program, and a KILL switch also for added protection.

The only problem is that you have to shut the car off and turn it back on for the computer to read off a new program, you can not just switch and drive. Actually, I believe the key has to come out and then go back in ..... but it's a lot simpler than the timing adjuster thing.

But YES ... the GAP would hurt power a bit (no way around that) ... I was already running TR6 plugs on my NA cobra just to stop pre-ignition. So the gap is the only parasitic loss in NA mod.

Well, I may as well say .... on my 2001 which I will buy soon (as soon as State Farm stops being A-holes), it will have 4.56 gear and N2O. I'm really wanting it fast on the street and with the 01 model and exhaust, it will be at 300 alone (which is what a LOT of mods took to get my 96 to)"

------------------
1996 cobra vert
#2410 out of 2510
UPR Powerpipe
Pro-M 77mm
3.73 gears

07-25-2001, 09:38 AM	#1
bark3rd Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: AUSTIN, TX, USA Posts: 91	Bought nitrous Express kit, need pointers I have broken down and purchased my latest round of mods including the Nitrous express kit w/purge, Megabite Jr LCA's, and Nitto drag radials. I am looking for any tips for installing the nitrous kit. I trust experience over incomplete instructions that tend to come with these things. Have any of you tried it? Should I go to colder plugs to run over 100 shot? I also have the ability to retard the timing w/ the Steeda adjuster. I want to be safe but also would like to run strong with engine only when not using the nitrous. ------------------ Black 2000 GT,5 spd,17" wheels,4:10's,flowmasters Steeda pulleys, timing adjuster, K&N filter

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07-25-2001, 11:37 AM	#2
96Sidewinder Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Howard Bch, NY Posts: 5	Bark, Although, i don't use the NOS, I asked a very similiar question....The information below is from Scott Winger(superstallions). He gave one of the most informative information I have seen, also this Months MM&FF Had a install on a 99' GT owned by Susan Bodnar, Hope it helps..... Chris Scott Winger "I believe VERY strongly in playing it safe, whether you go blower or N2O. N2O is a great choice if you want to build up your NA car to pretty quick, and have the extra kick when you need it!\ Not saying you need ALL this on yours, but I would HIGHLY recommend everything. 5171eo WITH TPS micro switch. This allows the Nitrous to spray only when in Full throttle position but instead of calulating this based on Throttle plate position it is using a switch that goes right into your wiring harness ..... a little more accurate. Also built in is a fuel pressure safety switch allowing the nitrous to spray only when 90psi is achieved. MSD window switch or Mallory window switch. Set this window switch around 3300 on the bottom end and 6800 on the top end. This means that even when you are in "Full Throttle Mode" if you are not between those 2 rpms, your Nitrous will NOT spray. The bottom end safety will stop any posibility of puddleing in your intake, and the top end will stop the nitrous before fuel shutoff should you hit your limitter. OK - next ..... A bottle warmer is a must to make sure adequate heat is generated to your bottle so that adequate pressure is achieved. Pressure = HP. if pressure is low (ie. 700psi) you will have very little benefit and you are burning your Nitrous for nothing. Wire your warmer with power from an ignition switch so when you shut off the car you have ZERO power to the heater! ADD-ONs ....... Remote bottle opener is nice so you don't have to stop the car and open your bottle if you forgot to before you got in. Purge - so you look COOL, and also clear the lines of any posible air. Plus before you leave your car you can purge the system so it's not pressurized. Also if your pressure gets on the high side it's another easy way to lower it, with an engine purge should be in front of a church or something. Bottle guage - so you can tell all the time if you are at optimum psi in your bottle. Nitrous filter. This goes just before the jet at your inlet, to make sure any crap gets filtered before hitting your jet. Keep in mind that extra flanges and connectors will be needed - it doesn't just fit right in between - stupid NOS people. You will also need and extra 1 foot line to go after the filter to the jet! Stainless lines can be purchased for your purge (should you have one), but this is VERY complicated and pricey if you want twin purges (For your snorkles) as you will need tons of extra flanges and hoses and connectors to get it to work. Switches - mounted to control the opener/warmer/ and purge. My system for a twin bottle twin purge twin warmers/blankets/ with 5 switches cost around $2300.00 usd. Yes, call it the Rolls Royce version. But the extra bottle setup increased that a LOT. The purge too. I hope this has helped in some way! To get around the LOSS of power, I had a CJ chip ready to go in. It has 4 programs on one chip and you get a switch with it. I would have installed it in the ashtray. 2 NA programs ... one NOS program, and a KILL switch also for added protection. The only problem is that you have to shut the car off and turn it back on for the computer to read off a new program, you can not just switch and drive. Actually, I believe the key has to come out and then go back in ..... but it's a lot simpler than the timing adjuster thing. But YES ... the GAP would hurt power a bit (no way around that) ... I was already running TR6 plugs on my NA cobra just to stop pre-ignition. So the gap is the only parasitic loss in NA mod. Well, I may as well say .... on my 2001 which I will buy soon (as soon as State Farm stops being A-holes), it will have 4.56 gear and N2O. I'm really wanting it fast on the street and with the 01 model and exhaust, it will be at 300 alone (which is what a LOT of mods took to get my 96 to)" ------------------ 1996 cobra vert #2410 out of 2510 UPR Powerpipe Pro-M 77mm 3.73 gears