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10-08-2000, 12:53 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Los Angeles,CA,90032
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Steering has too much play
My 68 has too much play when I turn the steering. Any suggestions?
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10-08-2000, 06:00 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: kc,kansas,johnson
Posts: 30
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start looking at idalor tie rod ends steering box wormgear con be lots of things
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10-08-2000, 09:29 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Manhattan, KS 66502
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Once you've exhausted other possibilities, you might consider buying a new steering box. I think the company is called Flaming River or something like that. I know they make boxes for the 65-66 models and I think they might for later models as well. It's just like many other parts on the old Stangs, they just weren't made to last 30 plus years.
Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator, Firestone Firehawk 215/60R14's 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper, Borla Side exhaust, K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico struts/ shocks Next up: 3:73's, high flow H-Pipe www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?258 |
10-08-2000, 05:06 PM | #4 |
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Location: Houston, Tx.
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First check out all steering linkage, as previously noted. Tie rod ends, idler arm, drag link, and even ball joints and wheel bearings. After all that is repaired/replaced and is tight, check the steering box. If that's where the play is, try to adjust the pre load. That's all I had to do in my '66 and all was fine. Only if adjustment doesn't work should you go to the expense of a new box. At least, that's my opinion.
Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear, March under drive pulleys, 13.97 e.t., 100.1 mph 1/4 mi. TCI 2400 stall converter B&M Trans-pac shift kit No improvement 1/4 mile |
10-10-2000, 10:00 AM | #5 |
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Location: Refugio,Texas U.S.A.
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I had a simular problem with my 67. I checked all the rods linkage etc... and found nothing wrong. Next step new box.I thought I would try one more thing. I bought some Lucus thin grease and filled the stearing box with it. After a few days of driving the Lucus started to drain out through the seal,oh boy. After a couple of days the Lucus drained out and I refilled the stearing box with Fomoco recomended grease and it worked. I figured that the grease was 33 years old and had lost its viscosity. Hope this helps,
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10-14-2000, 06:12 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 208
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I have to agree with REV on this. I'd check all the linkage--especially the Idler arm--and then try to adjust the steering box.
I had to do this to mine when I first got it running, and it is needing it again after about 60k-70k miles. Last choice will be a new box--or rebuilt. I know several Mustang parts vendors offer rebuilt steering boxes. |
10-21-2000, 10:17 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
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So how would one go about adjusting the pre-load? I'm having the same problem with my 65. It's really evident now that I've got a new Focus as my daily driver, hehe...didn't think much of it before. I've replaced tie-rods, steering linkage, etc., so I know it's come down to the box and I just haven't worked up the nerve to lay down that kind of cash yet. If I have to replace the box, are there any how-to's out there somewhere? Things to watch out for? Thanks...
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10-21-2000, 11:47 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Houston, Tx.
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OK, I'm only an ordinary Hot Rod Stanger. My recommendation is after making sure all steering gear linkage is good and tight is to check the box. If that's where the play is then there are three options. Adjust, repair, or replace. The preload adjustment is a stud with a lock nut. My advice is to loosen the lock nut 1/2 turn. Tighten (clockwise) the stud to increase preload 1/4 turn at a time. Locking the lock nut each time. See what that action does. This is how I adjusted mine. Don't over do it.
Rev |
10-22-2000, 09:42 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Manhattan, KS 66502
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Wow, you learn something new everyday. My 66 was doing the same thing ( up above I suggested getting a new box which is what I was planning on doing) but I tried doing the adjustment and I think it worked! Most of the play has been nearly eliminated - maybe it's just temporary - I don't know. It feels great right now though!
Stefan ------------------ 66 Standard coupe 200 inline 6 - Pertronix ignition, Flamethrower Coil, K&N, Clifford Perf. 6 into 2 headers, Holley carb, three row radiator, Firestone Firehawk 215/60R14's 96 GT Convertible Bosch Platinum +4 plugs, B&M Ripper, Borla Side exhaust, K&N, removed air silencer, Tokico struts/ shocks, BF Goodrich Comp T/A 245/50 16's Next up: 3:73's, high flow H-Pipe |
10-23-2000, 09:03 AM | #10 |
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If you had power steering and disconnected it, you will have alot of play in the power steering control valve.
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10-23-2000, 04:49 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: kensington, P.E., Canada
Posts: 22
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I noticed tom351 was the first to question if your car was power steering. If it is, then the first place to look is the P S control valve as he suspected. We have found that even with a new or rebuilt valve there is always play at the wheel. [Have engine running to check] About 3 inches at the top of the steering wheel is about as good as it gets.
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10-29-2000, 11:30 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Dallas, TX, USA
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Oh my God! If only I had known about pre-load 10 years ago! Did this on my 65 and the play is nevermore. My cousin got so excited when I told him about it, he ran out and adjusted the steering on his 65 Ford F100. Thanks for the info guys...another problem solved without having to even buy anything (I love those kind).
Torrey |
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