REALLY Bad Idle Problem: TPS? MAF?

[ChunkFunky]

I posted about this the other day and I thought it was my lashing but I dont think so now... it'll start right up and idle at like 500 maybe.. it barely stays running it'll run for maybe 30 seconds and finaly die out.... opening the throttle barely makes a difference in the idle, it certainly doesnt start to rev.

Could a vacuum leak cause it to run THIS bad... ? I have everything hooked up correctly, I THINK...

one thing I found odd was when I put in the TPS there was a plastic O ring of sorts that makes it sit kinda funny in the new Edelbrock/BBK TB I have. The TPS unit doesnt sit flush with the TB its up by maybe an 1/8 of an inch because of that little spacer o ring thing. I just transfered it from the stock TB but maybe its messing me up... and when everyone talks about ADJUSTING the TPS how do you adjust it.. it's pretty much a fixed position.. there's a little bit of play but not alot... and where do you check for this voltage at the plug?

One more thing..MAF Connected or Not... I've tried both ways and it allmost seems to run better without the MAF hooked up... it's plugged in just not in the air path.

Sorry to be a pain and ask the same questions over and over, but I know alot of you have been through this before and might have had some similar problems
-as

[CMYGTGO]

I am not sure about the plastic O-ring but I would think the TPS should set flat. As far as how to adjust the TPS this article may help.


How To Adjust TPS
"Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords"
April 1993
The throttle position sensor is one of those things that falls into the category of "computer stuff" that makes a big difference and is easy to deal with, but average people like us would never know about. Without the proper adjustment, the throttle position sensor (TPS) will give the computer a false reading as to the exact throttle opening. A false reading will limit wide open throttle performance (something we definitely don't want). A voltage reading must be taken using a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) with the Key On/Engine Off and with the Key On/Engine Running. A Radio Shack DVOM, part No. 22-185A, works well for this job.
The TPS is located directly on top of the throttle body and is adjusted by loosening the two phillips mounting screws and swiveling the sensor until the highest reading is found. It may be necessary to elongate the holes with a small file to achieve the desired reading.

The spec range for Key On is from .88 to 1.0 volt; shoot for the .97 to .99 volt. With the engine running, the voltage should be no higher than 1.05 volts.

Incorrect Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage will result in reduced performance. The best way to take a TPS voltage reading is by using two safety pins through the wires coming from the sensor. The positive lead is attached to the green wire, while the negative goes to the black wire. Always ground the meter through the sensor's black wire. This gives a direct, and more accurate ground into the computer.

[ChunkFunky]

I dunno what the deal is with this thing.. I hate these computer controlled cars....

it could be a million things... I tested for codes with KOEO and after I fixed a few little things, like TPS out of range (cause the throttle was getting hung up on the tranny kick down cable) It reads 11 for SYSTEM OK...

I cant run an engine running test cause it wont run for more then 30 seconds and it's running at about 500 RPM if I give it gas, it doesnt effect a thing... witch I found odd... you'd think with more air, if nothing else it'd bog out and die... it'll run for like 30 seconds and finaly die out... I can keep it going if I mess with the trottle alittle but it never really gets passed 750 or so... it pops sometimes through the intake... I pulled my valve covers and checked all the rockers, they all wiggle alittle when they are closed, so that means none are too tight.. even if one was too tight that shouldnt keep this thing from running I cant even gets the revs up
-as

[LX5liter]

If your MAF is not in the air path, that is probably most of your problem. The computer needs to know how much air is coming in to know how much fuel to put in. If I mis-understood your post, disregard this post.

[ChunkFunky]

I think I've narrowed it mostly down to the MAF... it's in the air path, I have the hoses hooked up... but if I UNPLUG the harness to the MAF it runs ok... if I plug the MAF back in, it'll start to sputter and die... it's a 76mm CnL calibrated for 24# injectors. the guts came from my stock unit.. witch worked fine before all of this
-as

[93GTDIN]

I know i mentioned this before, but make sure the spark plugs are hooked up right. A low idle with the throttle doing nothing sounds exactly like when it happened to me.

disreguard if you already checked.

[ChunkFunky]

even though it idles like total crap... it now responds to the trottle... infact I took it around the block and once you get into the 2000 and up it actualy runs nice... I think it could be a timing thing... this thing wouldnt start if I was in 180 off would it? it starts up fine ... but if I pull the spout it dies, I did the set the balancer at TDC and put the rotor at 1 but it runs like crap... when I do a KOER test the unit brings the RPMS to 2000 to do the test I guess and it seems to run ok there
-as

[93GTDIN]

pull the spout before you start the car, then adjust the timing.

Glad to hear you got it running, hurry up and take it to the track so we can compare numbers!