mass air for cobra
 

hey what mass air should i go with on my 96 cobra if i was to upgrade.. i know they come with 80MM... so what next?

thanx

C&L makes a nice MAF for the money there is one on ebay you could pick up for cheap and get good gains I mean there are better and worse ones but the C&L is good heres the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMESSE%3AIT

dont use a C&L they are junk they been known to cause a extreme lean condtion

if you going to use a aftermarket maf I would go with either a 80 or 87mm pro-m and no just cause the 80mm stock is the 80mm pro m is the same size the pro-m will flow more air

but unless you are out of bolt ons I would not waste your money on a aftermarket maf yet they are not worth the money

I would look into other bolt ons first

They dont cause a "extreme" lean but they do run lean, I ran one for more then a year and it was awesome I mean it is a mod and it was a mod you can feel especialy if you get it for cheap cheap cheap off ebay:) like I did

so you were one of the lucky ones most people buy them and then get rid of them on ebay beacuse of this

and yes they do cause real bad lean I seen them go as for as 15to1 lean and that was on a stock car and that being the only mod
go to modulardpot and ask about the C&L and you will get a 95% responce about how they suck
and that sites has some of fast mod motors guys around
shoot 7 of them raced the nmra race this weekend

I dont care how cheap they are I would not run one if someone gave it to me
I feel that my nx kit is safer then a C&L maf

well my first mods gonna be either 4.10's or 4.30's.. im leanin more twards the 4.30's cuz i know cobras like alota gear. its already got exhaust an filter... as far as bolt ons i was thinkin pullies, AFM powerpipe, then maybe mass air.. i heard TB is waist .. but not sure on the 4 V motor.

from talking to alot of guys at the track they seem to like a 4.56 gear for the cobra cause then they use the whole 4th gear at the track or the 4.10s cause then they can ride out 3rd but hated the 4.30 cause you dont stay in the power band cause you drop to low in 4th and dont get back to thetop part of the revs

now if in the future you plan on going with a supercharger or nitrous then I would go with a 4.10 or 4.30 for a cobra but if your going to keep it n/a I would use 4.56 or 4.88

I would go with pullies and t/a before a maf

and when you say it has exhaust is that just a cat back or is it mid pipe headers or cat back or all 3 or what

cause this is what I would do
mid pipe)if you dont have one)
gears
pullies&t/a
and tires(drag radials)
that right should put you in the 12s with some good driving

its got BBK H-pipe no cats an flows. all 2 1/2 in.

an for tire i'd go with ET streets or slicks.

then what I would do is decide what route your going to do n/a or power adder before picking a gear

with your going to go superchaged then I would not get pullies cause then you will just have to remove them when installing the blower cause you wont want to use u/d with a blower

somethings to think about as well a lot of the times people put so much effort into the power and dont think about the susp. so think are not getting the times want and they dont understand why

if running slicks I would get gears and a diff(eaton etc...)axles
have your tq boxes welded and axle tubes welded

and then maybe a t/a and some other bolt ons

with my GT
this is the set up im running in susp and rear
4cyl front springs

FRONT

strange struts
weld 15x4 rim front rims and 185/65/15 tire
no front swaybar

REAR

fox body springs cut
strange shocks
d&d upper/lower control arms
d&d spherical bearings (housing mounts)
axle tubes welded
tq boxes welded
15x8 weld dragite/w nitto 275/50/15
REAREND

moser 33 spline axles
moser 33 spline spool
moser c-clip elims
4.10 frrp gears
frpp al. driveshaft

and mm sub frame connectors

im looking for a 60' in the 1.6s on motor and 1.5s on the spray
when running et streets
and 1.8s on motor and 1.7s when using spray on my nittos

Here's a wonderful read concerning MAF's:MAF's 101

What is the actual link to that modulardpot website you were talking about???

Thanks :)

OH NEVERMIND, FOUND IT. LOL

you just spelled it wrong.. haha

my bad I left out the (E) i guess thats what I get for typing to fast

www.modulardepot.com

I gotta tell everyone!! That website rocks!!

It's been hard, very hard... to fine a site that only deals with our breed of stang!

So glad you showed me that! Thanks!

I am confused. If you add a larger MAF and bring in more air, dosen't the car compensate by adding more fuel? Within limits of course.

no cause what the maf is tricking the ecu into thinking there is less air coming in then what is causing it to go slightly lean inturn making more power but the problem with C&L they cause you to run to lean in a lot of cases and need to be dyno tuned

but if you have the money for a dyno tune then why buy a maf for a non supercharged stang there is no need cause you can do the same thing through a tune

see they were good mods on the 5.0 cause they come with a 55mm maf. so they were a major restriction but the mod motors come with a 80mm so they are not, you would not need a maf
unless you had a stroked block,P&P heads and race cams and then you still might not need one.

I thought only the cobra mod motor comes with 80mm MAF???

You're saying the GT has 80mm also???

for some reason I thought the MAF & TB on the mod GT's are 65mm

no?

Mines an '02... is there a difference between the 94-98 mod and the 99+ mod??

Do you know what dyno tunes usually cost?

yes the GTs have a 80mm I dont remember what the maf is on the 94-95 being a last gen 5.0 but the 96+mod motors are 80mm and they might have made them bigger in 02 or 03 not sure


as for dyno tuning
well on avg. it cost 350 for a base dyno tune depending on where you go but a lot of places charge 250-350 for the chip and then 100 per hr to tune it

Ok so.. my '02 stang already has 80mm MAF & 80mm tb??... then um.. there's not much I can do in that area for performance gains, right?