Pulley install is a ***$$$####@@!
 

I am in the process of installing my new Steeda pulleys and timing adjuster. My buddy is an experienced mechanic and engine builder and had a hell of a time last night removing the stock pulleys. Even with an impact gun we couldn't get the alternator pulley off without removing the alternator completely and putting it in a vice. The shaft just spun when we cranked on it. Still haven't got the harmonic balancer pulley off, he says we have to pull out the radiator to do it because of clearance for his tool. Good grief, I've heard this should take an hour! Anyway, I drove it home with just the new alternator pulley, seemed a little faster. Is this guy trippin' or what? I know he is a good mechanic (he's got a pickup he built from scratch that runs 9's naturally aspirated). I hate to pull out the radiator, maybe a smaller more powerful impact tool would work better but I hear they are about $400.00. If he pulls the radiator, are there any potential problems I should look out for?

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Black 2000 GT,5 spd,17" wheels,4:10's,flowmasters
have parts: steeda underdrives,steeda timing adjuster

I know what your going through my friend. I myself am a schooled technician (well Kinda) but my friend Tim C has TONS of experience and its like born into his blood. He makes me look like a fool when it comes to the understanding of some of these systems, and we were the top two in the class.

Anyway, it took about 5 hours to install my BBK pullies. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/eek.gif We had to take the alternator off, oh heres a word of advice, hold the pully with your hand then use the impact (dont set it on super Torque mode though...Ouch). You dont need a vice. TO get the Crank pully off, we had to remove the coolant resivior and the cooling fan, we didnt have to take the radiator out though. We also had to go and get a big enough pully puller, that added to the time.

Oh and one of my bolts that hold the coolant resivior on came Striped from the factory..Oh yeah buddy, that sucked. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/mad.gif That added about and hour and half of extra work.

What kind of impact if your friend using thats so big it wont fit without removing the radiator? Is it something from the 1930's http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif I'd ask some of your other friends who might have a smaller one if you could borrow theres before removing the radiator.

Simple two hour install my A$$. Well I imagine that since I know what to expect now, I'd be able to do it a hell of alot faster. Good luck. Be sure to torque the crank bolt down all the way to specified torque to stretch it, then take it out, apply locktight and retorque. Dont want to run the risk of the damn thing coming out, That would Suck majorly.

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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, 3:1 rear gear. Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 windsor valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 sled rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified autolite 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Auto. project car.

[This message has been edited by Mercury (edited 05-24-2001).]

I have put in three t/a and 2 sets of pullies, and I never had that hard of a time, the first time, was slower, but I did not have any major problems. I can do t/a and pullies in like an hour and a half from the time I jack the car up, and droping on the ground.

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DarkPony's Page
http://www.mystictan.com/bj/bj/dfwstang.jpg
98 Black GT, 5 speed, Black Leather, 96 cobra wheels, bassani x/cats, Mac Pro-Dumps, Steeda Timing adj. 16deg., ASP Balanced Pullies, Eibach Sprotlines, K%N, Accell Coil Packs, Crane 8.5mm Fire Wires, FRPP 70MM Throttle Body, Pro-5.0, Autometer Shiftlite, 35th Aniv. Dash Bezel, Painted trim accents

221RWHP 1/8th
296RWTQ

If we had the correct puller, and didnt have a bolt striped out on the resivior, and didnt have to go get the proper tools from the usual garage we work in, the time would of probably been around 2 hours. As I said, now that I know what is needed to get it done, and what to expect, I could probably get it done much quicker.

I paid my mechanic to install my FMS pulleys because I didn't have access to any air tools. They didn't have to take anything out for clearance but they did have a hard time with the alternator. The bolt was cross-threaded or something so it gave them some fits. I'm glad I didn't mess with it. They charged me less than $60 and it took them two hours to install. Seemed like a pretty fair deal to me and the results were about what I expected with no overheating or poor charging.

Brett

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66 Tahoe Turquoise Coupe
Laser Red 96GT Ragtop
30 Years & 30 inches apart in the driveway!

I'm glad I didn't have that much trouble! For the crank I went at it from below with a regular racket and a big peice of PVC piping as a breaker bar. No need to remove anything else. Good luck!

I took me all of about 10 minutes when I installed mine. Took altenator off and held pully in hand then used impact gun to lossen nut. Crank pulley came off will little effort using a standard harmonic balancer puller.