under drive pullies

MnvlMat · 08-21-2004, 04:18 AM

I just installed MAC underdrive pullies on my 89 mustang. I don't have a smog pump because I go rid of it years ago with out a idler pullie. Now I am having a jurking issue. I don't know if it is my ignition or the new pullies on the car. Hope you can help me out.

Thank you,

MnvlMat

1989GT · 08-21-2004, 11:24 AM

What exactly is it doing. Jurking under throttle? Need a little more info.
-Ryan

MnvlMat · 08-22-2004, 06:38 AM

Yes it is some kind of jurking! How do I get my drivablity back? The serp belt is in tension range.

1989GT · 08-22-2004, 12:23 PM

Well your underdrive pullies shouldn't cause the car to jurk. Have you done anything else besides the pulley install? Does the car run okay at idle? Does it jurk under part/full throttle? Any certain rpm?
-Ryan

88fivepointoh · 08-22-2004, 02:21 PM

Pulleys wouldn't cause any sort of drivablility problems, My guess would be that something got changed in the process. Any codes, or warning lights? Need more info.

crazypete · 08-23-2004, 09:33 AM

It's almost always an ignition issue. Check the wires. During install, I've been known to move wires around and then one gets cooked on a header and the spark goes to the frame and not the plug. Insant "jerking". Tonight, turn off the lights, pop the hood and start the car. Look for sparks near the headers.

If not, pop the distributor cap/rotor and see if it's all burnt up. This is usually the cause for me. Finally check the timing.

The ONLY reason that UD pullies would cause engine problems is if the engine was overheating from the reduced water flow. But you would know that from the guage.

Pull the battery cable, let it sit 10 minutes, reattach, take if for a drive, then get the codes when you are done.

All you need is a simple $5 analog voltmeter.

http://www.corral.net/20anngt/images/test.gif
http://www.corral.net/20anngt/eec.htm

You can do a cylinder balance test by revving the engine once to trigger the balance test after all the codes are done and it will see if there is a trouble cylinder. Then you can check the plug/wire for that cylinder.

Have fun!

GhettoPop · 08-23-2004, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by crazypete

The ONLY reason that UD pullies would cause engine problems is if the engine was overheating from the reduced water flow. But you would know that from the guage.

Pull the battery cable, let it sit 10 minutes, reattach, take if for a drive, then get the codes when you are done.

UD pullies can also cause problems by not allowing the alternator to spin fast enough to output enough power, you can use your stock volt gauge to check it out or a multimeter, but it's not your problem anyway.

When you disconnect the neg batt cable to reset the computer, let sit for 10 in with the light switch turned on, this will fully drain the capacitors. (sp?) Make sure to turn off the switch before reconnecting the battery.

88fivepointoh · 08-23-2004, 02:58 PM

definatly check the plug wires and Cap and Rotor. its definetly a Ignition issue. What did you move out of the way to do the pullies?

MnvlMat · 08-24-2004, 05:37 AM

I also redid the plug wires and spark plugs. I did one wire at a time and one spark plug at a time. I rechecked every thing and I have no arking on any of my headers regaped my spark plugs. I numbered my distributor and make sure each wire ran to the right location. I have ford racing wires they a numbered also.

I then used my spark tester to see it I am running 40,000 volts at each wire I have an MSD Blaster. That seemed fine! Next time I will pull the spout, but I think that will be better to see consistant firing. I cleaned the Ford Racing Motorsport cap.

Yes I know how to run KOER and KOEO. I use my code reader I found that the easiest way. I know how to use my DMV. I love my Blue Point. Last time I checked my ACT sensor came up.

I will recheck my timing and my wire locations.

Thank you for the input.

88fivepointoh · 08-24-2004, 03:28 PM

I loose wire terminal or a cracked plug will do that.. what plugs are you using? I hope ford plus or at least autocraft... I hope no japanese bosch or anything cause they sucks and you will have all sorts of issues. Defienlty in the tune up though.

RDRZ · 08-24-2004, 05:27 PM

Make sure that the gap on your new plugs is correct. I believe it's supposed to be .054". When I first bought my car, the guy who had it before me had the plugs gapped wrong.

MnvlMat · 08-24-2004, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by MnvlMat
I also redid the plug wires and spark plugs. I did one wire at a time and one spark plug at a time. I rechecked every thing and I have no arking on any of my headers regaped my spark plugs. I numbered my distributor and make sure each wire ran to the right location. I have ford racing wires they a numbered also.

I then used my spark tester to see it I am running 40,000 volts at each wire I have an MSD Blaster. That seemed fine! Next time I will pull the spout, but I think that will be better to see consistant firing. I cleaned the Ford Racing Motorsport cap.

Yes I know how to run KOER and KOEO. I use my code reader I found that the easiest way. I know how to use my DMV. I love my Blue Point. Last time I checked my ACT sensor came up.

I will recheck my timing and my wire locations.

Thank you for the input.

Do you think you can find a way to stop using my screen name...... All these E-mails are getting quite annoying.

88fivepointoh · 08-24-2004, 06:55 PM

what do u mean screen name? Thats how this message board works, if you get a reply it gets emailed to you saying someone has replied... if you don't want emails you have to set it up that way when you wrote the thread.

MnvlMat · 08-24-2004, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 88fivepointoh
what do u mean screen name? Thats how this message board works, if you get a reply it gets emailed to you saying someone has replied... if you don't want emails you have to set it up that way when you wrote the thread.

My screen name is MnvlMat.... Somehow something got screwed up and someone else is using it and the e-mail notifications are being sent to me when I didnt post anything.

Its kinda like identy theft.....

88fivepointoh · 08-24-2004, 07:34 PM

well you did post this message that we have all replied to right??

MnvlMat · 08-25-2004, 04:50 PM

Nope.... I dont own a mustang.... I have a 94 lightning.....

The other guy that is using my name did....

88fivepointoh · 08-25-2004, 05:16 PM

Hmm... well i guess he is not looking at his post then.... we'll leave it alone i guess..

08-25-2004, 05:30 PM

Like 88fivepointoh mentioned...what plugs are you running...and what did you gap them at? Just guessing here...cause you haven't relpied back...but did you install platinum plugs? If so, that is most likely your problem. Stick with the basic, non-expensive plugs like NGK or Autolite...not Autocraft. As far as I know Autocraft doesn't make spark plugs?

Was that a typo 88fivepointoh?

88fivepointoh · 08-25-2004, 06:48 PM

major typo, HAA.. I meant MotorCraft... The best for that car...

08-21-2004, 04:18 AM	#1
MnvlMat Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Vail Colorado Posts: 10	under drive pullies I just installed MAC underdrive pullies on my 89 mustang. I don't have a smog pump because I go rid of it years ago with out a idler pullie. Now I am having a jurking issue. I don't know if it is my ignition or the new pullies on the car. Hope you can help me out. Thank you, MnvlMat

08-21-2004, 11:24 AM	#2
1989GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Cincinnati,OH Posts: 1,511	What exactly is it doing. Jurking under throttle? Need a little more info. -Ryan __________________ 89GT,Pro-Bullet 306, H/C/I and a bunch of other stuff. Sold 00GT, Vortech S-Trim, Steeda Boost Pipe, C&L intake, Mac off-road H-pipe, Flowmasters, B&M Ripper shifter, Eibach Sportline springs, Koni Struts/shocks, MM full length subframe connectors, Cobra brakes, 3.73's. My Car Domain Page

08-22-2004, 06:38 AM	#3
MnvlMat Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Vail Colorado Posts: 10	Yes! Yes it is some kind of jurking! How do I get my drivablity back? The serp belt is in tension range.

08-22-2004, 12:23 PM	#4
1989GT Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Cincinnati,OH Posts: 1,511	Well your underdrive pullies shouldn't cause the car to jurk. Have you done anything else besides the pulley install? Does the car run okay at idle? Does it jurk under part/full throttle? Any certain rpm? -Ryan __________________ 89GT,Pro-Bullet 306, H/C/I and a bunch of other stuff. Sold 00GT, Vortech S-Trim, Steeda Boost Pipe, C&L intake, Mac off-road H-pipe, Flowmasters, B&M Ripper shifter, Eibach Sportline springs, Koni Struts/shocks, MM full length subframe connectors, Cobra brakes, 3.73's. My Car Domain Page

08-23-2004, 09:33 AM	#6
crazypete Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Boston Posts: 592	It's almost always an ignition issue. Check the wires. During install, I've been known to move wires around and then one gets cooked on a header and the spark goes to the frame and not the plug. Insant "jerking". Tonight, turn off the lights, pop the hood and start the car. Look for sparks near the headers. If not, pop the distributor cap/rotor and see if it's all burnt up. This is usually the cause for me. Finally check the timing. The ONLY reason that UD pullies would cause engine problems is if the engine was overheating from the reduced water flow. But you would know that from the guage. Pull the battery cable, let it sit 10 minutes, reattach, take if for a drive, then get the codes when you are done. All you need is a simple $5 analog voltmeter. http://www.corral.net/20anngt/images/test.gif http://www.corral.net/20anngt/eec.htm You can do a cylinder balance test by revving the engine once to trigger the balance test after all the codes are done and it will see if there is a trouble cylinder. Then you can check the plug/wire for that cylinder. Have fun! __________________ 91 GT Carb conversion, holley 600 double pumper, edelbrock performer intake, FMS "C" drop springs, march 1000 underdrive pullies, crane 1.7 roller rockers, GT-40P headers, bassani x pipe, american thunder catback, FMS 4.56's, msd aL6, trunkmount battery, A/C eliminator kit, 3000 stall tci streetfighter, AOD with transgo kit, A+ servo, 300M hardened lockup shaft, kevlar bands and 28,000 gvw trans cooler, 3 core radiator, 300 lbs stripped with a full interior

08-22-2004, 02:21 PM	#5
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	Pulleys wouldn't cause any sort of drivablility problems, My guess would be that something got changed in the process. Any codes, or warning lights? Need more info.

08-23-2004, 02:58 PM	#8
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	definatly check the plug wires and Cap and Rotor. its definetly a Ignition issue. What did you move out of the way to do the pullies?

08-24-2004, 05:37 AM	#9
MnvlMat Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Vail Colorado Posts: 10	spark I also redid the plug wires and spark plugs. I did one wire at a time and one spark plug at a time. I rechecked every thing and I have no arking on any of my headers regaped my spark plugs. I numbered my distributor and make sure each wire ran to the right location. I have ford racing wires they a numbered also. I then used my spark tester to see it I am running 40,000 volts at each wire I have an MSD Blaster. That seemed fine! Next time I will pull the spout, but I think that will be better to see consistant firing. I cleaned the Ford Racing Motorsport cap. Yes I know how to run KOER and KOEO. I use my code reader I found that the easiest way. I know how to use my DMV. I love my Blue Point. Last time I checked my ACT sensor came up. I will recheck my timing and my wire locations. Thank you for the input.

08-24-2004, 03:28 PM	#10
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	I loose wire terminal or a cracked plug will do that.. what plugs are you using? I hope ford plus or at least autocraft... I hope no japanese bosch or anything cause they sucks and you will have all sorts of issues. Defienlty in the tune up though.

08-24-2004, 05:27 PM	#11
RDRZ Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Citrus Heights, CA Posts: 74	Make sure that the gap on your new plugs is correct. I believe it's supposed to be .054". When I first bought my car, the guy who had it before me had the plugs gapped wrong.

08-24-2004, 06:55 PM	#13
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	what do u mean screen name? Thats how this message board works, if you get a reply it gets emailed to you saying someone has replied... if you don't want emails you have to set it up that way when you wrote the thread.

08-24-2004, 07:34 PM	#15
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	well you did post this message that we have all replied to right??

08-25-2004, 04:50 PM	#16
MnvlMat Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Vail Colorado Posts: 10	Nope.... I dont own a mustang.... I have a 94 lightning..... The other guy that is using my name did....

08-25-2004, 05:16 PM	#17
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	Hmm... well i guess he is not looking at his post then.... we'll leave it alone i guess..

08-25-2004, 05:30 PM	#18
Simi Stang Guest Posts: n/a	jerking Like 88fivepointoh mentioned...what plugs are you running...and what did you gap them at? Just guessing here...cause you haven't relpied back...but did you install platinum plugs? If so, that is most likely your problem. Stick with the basic, non-expensive plugs like NGK or Autolite...not Autocraft. As far as I know Autocraft doesn't make spark plugs? Was that a typo 88fivepointoh?

08-25-2004, 06:48 PM	#19
88fivepointoh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Rochester Posts: 553	major typo, HAA.. I meant MotorCraft... The best for that car...

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