Leave an Air gap
Yeah, make sure you leave an air gap between the stop and shifter. If not you'll end up with a bad vibrating noise and the bolt head can eat into the shifter. Just make sure you can get into every gear before you put the shifter boot back on. Also StangGT2002, look into making the engine breathe better like a different maf. I run a c&l and it works really well, defenite sotp feel, don't waste money on a throttlebody no ones made any proof on the dyno's except BBK. Also a timing adjuster from steeda, unbelievable difference made set at 12*, any higher and I had an ses light. Some guys can run like 15*, but I'm not one of them. Well I guess MM&FF made like 10ft-lbs with a 70mm throttle body, but it seems like they always get better results than anybody, like astock GT running 13.7 w/ factory badyears, factory freak I guess. I wish I could fall into one of those deals. 
__________________
2002 min gray GT:
steeda underdrives, timing adjuster, triax, C&L maf, MM strut tower brace and k-member brace, Steeda subs weld-in, steeda tubular front sway bar, bullitt springs ,struts(tokico's)and shocks, bullitt gas door, alum.pedals, MM panhard Bar, cobra 13" front brake upgrade. ON THE WAY TO BECOMING A TRACK *****
66' 2 dr malibu;
355 cube 4-bolt main, steel crank, chevy pink rods, KB 10.7 to1 pistons, ported double humps 202&160, torkerII intake, rejetted holley 650 D.P., crane ignition box, comp.cam roller rockers& 280 degree cam, balanced to 8500 rpm, hooker super comps, 3000 rpm stall and built turbo 350 tranny. dynoed at 543hp and 582 tq
|