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Old 08-15-2006, 06:22 AM   #2
Jeff Chambers
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Milan, OH
Posts: 2,699
Default Re: Clutch Servicing

Get car in air (lift is best but jackstands will do)
Disconnect battery
Remove primary O2 sensors
Remove exhaust (x or h pipe)
Disconnect clutch cable
Remove starter (yeah that third bolt on top is a bitch)
Remove driveshaft (helps to have a butt plug)
Remove shifter bezel and shifter (handle at a minimum)
Disconnect all transmission wiring (speedo cable too if earlier car)
Remove cross member
Remove four trans to bell housing bolts (unless its a T3650 then bell comes down with trans)
Slide transmission back until input shaft clears bell, then lower down and out of way
Remove eight bellhousing to block bolts (top two are fun)
Discard O2 bracket
Install clutch alignment tool
Remove six clutch to pressure plate bolts (evenly)
Carefully remove clutch and pressure plate (it'll hurt if you let it fall on your forehead)


If you've got a T3650, there are two ears on the bell that make it a real pain to get down and out. Sometimes it will help to loosen the motor mount bolts so that the engine will tip backwards. I usually cut these ears off before I reinstall the trans.

$800 for a clutch swap isn't that bad. If you don't have the right tools, it'll be a hassle but it can be done. I always replace the pilot bearing while I'm in there. That'll require that you rent a bearing puller from the local parts store.
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Jeff Chambers
1990 Mustang GT 10.032 Seconds / 137.5 MPH
14-time Street Warrior World Record Setter
CRT Performance
2001 Tropic Green Mustang GT - 12.181 / 113.2 MPH
2002 Ford F-250 Crew Cab 7.3l Power Stroke - 17.41@77.2

"There's nothing boring about a small block automatic shifting gears at 9400 rpm!"
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