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03-29-2002, 03:20 AM | #1 |
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Question about STEEDA Tri Ax shifters??
Considering I have a 2002 GT,which Steeda Tri Ax shifter should i get.... the regular Tri Ax or the TR-3650???
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03-29-2002, 09:23 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Illinois
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shifter answer
It should be the 3650, but check out the sticker in the driverside door jam. If the trans code is K it's the 3650. Get the triax its worth every penny 100x 's better than the stock POS.
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2002 min gray GT: steeda underdrives, timing adjuster, triax, C&L maf, MM strut tower brace and k-member brace, Steeda subs weld-in, steeda tubular front sway bar, bullitt springs ,struts(tokico's)and shocks, bullitt gas door, alum.pedals, MM panhard Bar, cobra 13" front brake upgrade. ON THE WAY TO BECOMING A TRACK ***** 66' 2 dr malibu; 355 cube 4-bolt main, steel crank, chevy pink rods, KB 10.7 to1 pistons, ported double humps 202&160, torkerII intake, rejetted holley 650 D.P., crane ignition box, comp.cam roller rockers& 280 degree cam, balanced to 8500 rpm, hooker super comps, 3000 rpm stall and built turbo 350 tranny. dynoed at 543hp and 582 tq |
03-29-2002, 11:31 AM | #3 |
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Thanks...
I looked at the transmission code and the letter was "K" so i'll go with the TR-3650. Also with this shifter there is an option to "adjust positive stops to prevent overextending the shift lever," what did you set yours at??Thanks for the info, i have heard nothing but good things about these shifters!!!
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03-29-2002, 01:38 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,294
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The stops are adjusted using a feeler gauge.
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Strike down the unroadworthy! 2000 GT Atl. Blue: '03 Cobra motor - 465rwhp/473rwtq, T-56 6-speed, full MM TA/PH & tubular K-member suspension, Saleen body, 17" Torq-Thrust II's, M/T ET Street radials, and lots more '94 Rio Red Cobra: All the bolt-ons, 3.73s |
03-29-2002, 02:42 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Illinois
Posts: 44
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Leave an Air gap
Yeah, make sure you leave an air gap between the stop and shifter. If not you'll end up with a bad vibrating noise and the bolt head can eat into the shifter. Just make sure you can get into every gear before you put the shifter boot back on. Also StangGT2002, look into making the engine breathe better like a different maf. I run a c&l and it works really well, defenite sotp feel, don't waste money on a throttlebody no ones made any proof on the dyno's except BBK. Also a timing adjuster from steeda, unbelievable difference made set at 12*, any higher and I had an ses light. Some guys can run like 15*, but I'm not one of them. Well I guess MM&FF made like 10ft-lbs with a 70mm throttle body, but it seems like they always get better results than anybody, like astock GT running 13.7 w/ factory badyears, factory freak I guess. I wish I could fall into one of those deals.
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2002 min gray GT: steeda underdrives, timing adjuster, triax, C&L maf, MM strut tower brace and k-member brace, Steeda subs weld-in, steeda tubular front sway bar, bullitt springs ,struts(tokico's)and shocks, bullitt gas door, alum.pedals, MM panhard Bar, cobra 13" front brake upgrade. ON THE WAY TO BECOMING A TRACK ***** 66' 2 dr malibu; 355 cube 4-bolt main, steel crank, chevy pink rods, KB 10.7 to1 pistons, ported double humps 202&160, torkerII intake, rejetted holley 650 D.P., crane ignition box, comp.cam roller rockers& 280 degree cam, balanced to 8500 rpm, hooker super comps, 3000 rpm stall and built turbo 350 tranny. dynoed at 543hp and 582 tq |
03-29-2002, 09:12 PM | #6 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 24
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Quote:
Mine should be here Tuesday
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'97 GT Coupe-Laser Red MODS: Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda T/A, FRPP 3.73s, FRPP Alum. Driveshaft, Magnapack cat-back, MM C/C plates, Fox Lake PI heads, BBK LTs, waiting on brown truck with with my Comp Cams 197.3rwhp 272.8tq |
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