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04-11-2002, 06:09 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Hamden, CT 06518
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oil changes
This is a real "noob" question, but how often do you guys changer your oil (2001 GT)? I know the manual says about 5,000 miles but this is longer than I am used to with my old car. I'm at about 7 grand right now and I changed it once so far. The car is "driven" so maybe I shouldn't wait that long. Thanks.
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04-11-2002, 06:23 PM | #2 |
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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I usually change my oil about 2-4 thousand miles to be safe and add life to my engine.
Hope this helps, Bob
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04-11-2002, 08:45 PM | #3 |
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Location: lynchburg, va
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oil changes
yea, I try to change the oil in my 2001 gt every 3000mi. As it was said in the above statement - add life to your motor. Im thinking of taking it to the track on a couple of weekends this summer. After each race, I'll probaly change the oil. This is because it has been run a little harder that usual.
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04-11-2002, 08:58 PM | #4 |
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Location: draper,va,us
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synthetic
what about synthetic? mobil 1, castrol syntec, so on so forth they clame long oil life? what are your thoughts on that
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1998 mustang gt/manual..373s,bbk offroad h pipe,flowmaster cat back,c&l 80 mm maf,steeda triax,eibach springs,steeda ud pulleys,upr timing adjuster,screamon demos coil packs,motorsports 9mm plug wires,steea aluminum lca's,steeda heavy duty uca's and just over 100 k on the clock |
04-12-2002, 06:40 AM | #5 |
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Location: Maryville,TN
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believe it or not!
There was a big study done on the regular vs synth oils. There was no wear difference on the engines using synth oil over regular oil. The differences came in when the engines were driven hard, in dusty conditions or steep hills or if oil was changed every 4-6,000 miles. All oil is 20% additives and 80% lubricants. It is the additives that determine quality of oil. The synth oils are a chemicaly derived oil while the others are naturaly derived. If you don't race, and drive you car normaly then the synth oil is a waste of money. If you race or drive in severe conditions than a synth oil MAY help engine wear. BUT, if you change your oil every 3K than there is no BIG difference in engine life. The LONG LIFE OILS have more additives and additional additives to increase seal life. I have 3 years of data on 5,000 Hp pumps here at work with royal purple vs regular lubes. There is only a slight difference in rpm, amps,vibration, when using the synth after 3 years. but the synth cost 4 times the regular price! Not a bargin! chemical process Eng. Alcoa Aluminum
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98 GT / convertable -98 Saleen engine, Saleen appearance pkg. SHM cams,P&P NPI heads, and so much more! |
04-12-2002, 08:34 AM | #6 |
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Location: Arlington Heights,IL
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I use Castrol GTX. It's good stuff. Johnny Force all the way!
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'97 Laser Red GT Coupe Stock 2V (Pulled Silencer) 4R70W Automatic Ripped off a BLISTERING 15.37@90MPH With a 2.21 60ft Just Installed- K&N Air Filter Coming Soon...... -4.10's -Flowmaster A/T or Magnapack Cat-Back |
04-16-2002, 01:23 PM | #7 |
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Location: St Louis
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consumer reports did a big report on oil changes a few years ago.
they did it with NYC cab drivers ( worst driving conditions in the country). engines showed no excessive wear until after 7000 miles! however that being said, i still change mine every 4500 in my truck and about every 3000 in my cobra. |
04-17-2002, 11:25 PM | #8 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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I use Castrol Syntec in my 2.3, and yes it is very expensive(about 24 bucks for a case of 6). I have to real data to back this up but, take regualar oil with 3K on it, then take synthetic oil with 3K on it. Rub both between your fingers, you can tell the difference.
But in retrospec I am prob. wasing my money. But I can't switch back not(can I?)
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
04-18-2002, 09:09 PM | #9 |
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Location: Hayes, Va, USA
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The 02 stangs require an oil change every 5,000 miles with 5w20 under normal service conditions, that said, I change mine about every 3,000 miles.
Seems to me the stuff Ford sells is a mineral based oil, but I'm a synth oil junkie and swear by the stuff. Currently I'm using 0w30 mobil1 As far as switching back, yeah. it shouldn't be a problem. Most if not all synth oils are compatible with mineral based oils.
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2002 5M GT (99% stock) 1991 5M LX (30% stock) patiently awaiting my satin silver 07 Mach 1, and don't forget the shaker |
04-18-2002, 09:12 PM | #10 |
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Location: Hayes, Va, USA
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"I have 3 years of data on 5,000 Hp pumps here at work with royal purple vs regular lubes. There is only a slight difference in rpm, amps,vibration, when using the synth after 3 years. but the synth cost 4 times the regular price! Not a bargin!"
Do they run at a constant temperature and RPM? Most of the wear that occurs in an engine is when it is first started up. once warmed up to operating temperature and operated at a steady RPM, an engine experiences almost no wear at all.
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2002 5M GT (99% stock) 1991 5M LX (30% stock) patiently awaiting my satin silver 07 Mach 1, and don't forget the shaker |
04-19-2002, 04:44 PM | #11 |
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil... I "plan" on doing my oil changes at 3000 but usually don't get around to it until around 4000 but no higher than 5000.
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04-19-2002, 05:48 PM | #12 |
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Location: draper,va,us
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nice car
GaryDawg... just wanted to tell you i like your car!!thats sweet!!!, i run mobile 1 chang it before 5k, how many quarts do you guys use?5...5 1/2...or 6?
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1998 mustang gt/manual..373s,bbk offroad h pipe,flowmaster cat back,c&l 80 mm maf,steeda triax,eibach springs,steeda ud pulleys,upr timing adjuster,screamon demos coil packs,motorsports 9mm plug wires,steea aluminum lca's,steeda heavy duty uca's and just over 100 k on the clock |
04-19-2002, 09:47 PM | #13 |
It's a lot like a race car
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Meridian, MS
Posts: 4,130
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I agree, GaryDawg you have a very sweet car. Can I drive it
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1987 Buick T-type 1998 HD Electra Elide |
04-24-2002, 03:29 PM | #14 |
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Thanks guys...! I don't remember if mine takes 5 or 6 but I think it's 6 quarts. Just bought a case for this weekend. Also just bought some new rubber.... Kumho Ecsta 712s.... Not bad. Couldn't get the BF Goodrich Potenzas here without a hassel...
You think that picture is sweet... check out my main passenger... my wife... GaryDawg's Banner.... |
04-24-2002, 04:10 PM | #15 |
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Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 43
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Oil changes
I run Mobil 1 and change it every 5000 miles and I top my engine off with 6 quarts when I change it. If I were running non synthetic, I would change it every 3000. I have been told not to switch back to mineral oil after you go to synthetic. Mobil 1 is only around $35/case at my local Price Club. I also run Fram oil filters. I really can't tell the difference running synthetic versus mineral oil. The only other thing that I was told is that if you do run mineral oil, don't go past 4 months between changes, because the mineral based oil breaks down naturally and the synthetic oil does not. My car had mineral in it from the factory until I switched to Mobil 1 at 1000 miles. Bottom line, do your oil changes yourself to save yourself the money that these oil change shops get for labor, washing your windows, vacuuming your car, etc. and use that money you save and run Mobil 1. I do all of my oil changes myself since a local oil change shop about 8 years ago left the old oil filter ring on the block in a Honda Accord that I owned and then installed a new filter on top of the old rubber filter seal and my check oil light came on about 20 miles after I left the shop. Luckily, I was near another oil change shop and I paid them to refill my crankcase and I gave their bill back to the original shop. I figure I do it myself, and it's done right from now on. Hope this helps.
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04-24-2002, 04:38 PM | #16 |
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I'll share some of my thoughts and experiences on engine lubrication.
First of all when the manual says that you shoud change it after 5000 miles, that is (as mentioned above) UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS. Wear comes from a couple things in an engine, particles in the oil is the big one, when the oil breaks down, and before the oil warms up. You can change your oil every 100 miles if you want, but if you don't change the oil filter and keep the dirt and particles out, you're not getting anywhere. This makes no difference between synthetic oil or conventional oil. Dirt is dirt. When oil breaks down and you lose your fluid film on engine parts, you have problems. I don't car what study was published some where, Sythetic oils will perform better in this category. I worked for one of the worlds largest engine manufacturer and they used sythetic and had plenty of data to show it's value in harsh operating conditions. (key word being harsh). Most people seem to catch on to this one pretty easily. Before the oil warms up, you have little to no protection for your engine components. Once again synthetic oil is superior. If you want proof, I invite you to Northern Canada when the temperature dips below -40 degrees. Starting with conventional oil (even a lower 0W30 grade) sucks compared to a true synthetic oil. Remember, you want to keep out dirt and particles, they do the most damage. The dirt comes from the air intake. The more air you put in the engine (IE the harder you drive) the more dirt you will have in your oil and the more frequent you should change your oil. Hope that helps, sorry for the length. |
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