315 BFG + 17x10.5" + Cobra IRS..install details w/ pics

[wjfawb0]

SEE END OF THREAD FOR RESOLUTION


Hey all. Here is the history of my wheel tire combo.

Started off stock 17x9 with 275/40-17 F1s all around.



Wore out the stock rear tires in about 4 months(12,000 miles). Got 315/35-17 nittos on two 17x10.5s for the back. Also bought 1" hubcentric H&R wheel spacers to prevent the IRS bolt from touching the tire sidewall when the suspension was unloaded. Needed the spacers stock, but after grinding down the IRS bolt heads about halfway the nittos would clear the IRS bolts without the spacers.

Write up with pics here:
http://www.modularmustangs.net/showt...5870#post15870

Without 1" (25mm)spacer:


With 1" (25mm) spacer:



Nittos wore out after just 2 months(6,000 miles). I bought GS-D3 goodyears to put all around the car on the stock rims. 275/40-17 on the front and 285/40-17 on the back.



Worn out nitto on left(meaning not safe at all in any amount of rain at highway speeds):



3.5 months (11,000 miles) later the rear 285 GS-D3s are past the wear bars (2/32" tread). The tires cause the rear end to get squirrelly in a decent amount of rain at anything above 65mph. Time for new 285s for the rear.

Wore out 285 GS-D3:



While waiting for the new GS-D3s I bought some 315/35-17 BFG drag radials from tire rack for $138 each. I get them mounted on my 17x10.5 wheels and test fit them. I expected the sidewalls to touch the IRS bolt with the suspension unloaded (BFG 315 much wider than nitto 315), but I didn't expect the sidewall and IRS braket to both touch the sidewall with the suspension unloaded and loaded(car sitting on the ground).


Left = BFG 315 on 10.5", Right = 285 GS-D3 on 9"


BFG


GS-D3


BFG touches IRS bolt and support with suspension loaded and unloaded





285 GS-D3 on 17x9" rim is no where near touching shaved IRS bolthead





BFG from side


GS-D3 from side


comparison of BFG 315 and GS-D3 285


BFG 315 vs Nitto 315 comparison


So, now I am looking to get a 1/4" to 1/2" spacer and some longer wheels studs so I can run the BFGs at the track. What has been other's experiences with the BFG 315/35-17s on 17x10.5" rims??? Did you use the 1" hubcentric spacers with integral studs, or did you get longer studs and a simple spacer??? I sold my fricken 1" spacers not expecting to have this problem(wasn't planning on the BFGs). Bummer. At least a fellow 03 cobra owner is enjoying them now.


Thanks.

-Jason

[wjfawb0]

UPDATE:

I bought 1/2" hubcentric spacers, moroso studs, and gorilla open lug nuts from MM. Here is what is going on:

First of all, I'd like to thank Rhonda for answering the phone after 8PM tonight and Tim for helping me get my rear caliper back on the car. :thumbsup: T&J Performance kicks arse. (I pulled the parking brake with the caliper off the rotor and it extended the piston. To retract the piston and allow me to get the caliper back over the pads and rotor, I had to twist the piston head in clockwise using needle nose pliers.) Thanks again Tim.

OK, so here's what happened tonight. I pulled the driver's side wheel (13/16" socket) and removed the caliper (12mm wrench) and bracket (15mm wrench) holding the pads. You have to also disconnect the parking brake cable from the spring perch (8mm screw) so that some slack will be available in the cable to allow you to move the caliper out of the way. I then removed the rotor. I sprayed penetrating oil on the front and back of the studs.

I used two 5"+ C-clamps and piece of brass to press out the first stock stud. Doing this by yourself is kinda tricky, but do-able (I managed somehow). I positioned the c-clamps on either side of the stud and twisted each one 90* alternating back and forth until the stud unseated and popped out. You can use a small hammer to tap on the ends of the clamps while under pressure to unseat the stock studs.





Success!!!! On the IRS, you can get the short stock studs out and the longer aftermarket studs in around the 2 o'clock position on the spindle(driver's side 10 o'clock on the passenger side).



Then, I inserted the new moroso stud and used four 1/2" washers with a junky advanced auto parts lug nut to pull in the new stud. I coated the new stud threads with anti-seize to make the seating easier.





Now, the stud drew up pretty easily. About the time it was almost fully seated, the wrench turned a little too easy. Schiot!!!! Did I strip the stud????

After removing the socket I saw what happened.



The stud was fine, the cheap lug nut stripped out its thread and coated the stud. I unwrapped the nut threads off the stud.





The new stud is in. I learned through out the process that I needed about 8 of the advanced crappy lug nuts. Each nut lasted about 1.5 new stud seatings. While cranking on the studs, the nuts heat up and eventually the threads fall out. The best thing about the cheap lugs is you can turn them around where the flat side of the nut presses against the washers and still get the socket over the end. The gorilla lugs I bought from MM have a collar which presses on the wheel that won't allow the socket over the nut from the other direction.



So, be careful with the nuts. Once the stud is fully drawn up, stop wrenching on it.

I am going to try and finish the car this Sunday. I'll post pics then of the spacers, wheels and all mounted on the car.

-Jason



Here are the pics after installing spacers and new moroso studs: