what a difference!

[chiaronate]

ok, keep me posted.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
It's your car. Make it the way you want. Everyone has different goals and situations.

Catbacks can add measurable power. There is some great info at Mach 1 registry where three different catbacks were tested on an otherwise stock Mach 1. SLP and Magnaflo were two of them I believe. The gains were 8 - 12 hp as I recall.

Plenum and TB combos are a proven 10 - 12 hp. There has been tons of studies done on these...it's a no brainer. You have to decide if the $350 for both is worth it.

I also must agree that gears such as 4.10's are a great mod. They will make the car feel more like a 5.0 by adding power down low and make the car scream that much more at peak.

So, here is a list of common mods, price and hp gains:

1 - Catback...$300 - $500...10 hp
2 - Under Drive Pullies...$200 installed...8 hp
3 - Plenun/TB...$350...10 hp
4 - CAI...$80 - $250...0 - 8 hp
5 - 4.10's...$500 installed....0 hp (but seems like 40 hp)

1 thats a 4v not a 2v the catbacks on a 2v maybe 5hp max
2 I only seen 4hp on a dyno form my u/d pullies(same day dyno)
3 togather you might see 10
4 cai save your money they are only worth 2-3hp and you can get that from a drop in k&n

now put them all togather then yes you see some gains

and headers unless there longtubes on the mod motors are not worth it and no you wont gain 15hp headers on the stock long block

[chiaronate]

yeah, i just got the pro-m and c&l plenum yesterday and put them on. not sure if i can tell the difference, but i know flow must have improved. as far as mufflers go, i think the stock mufflers are loud enough when going through the rpm's. i was thinking of getting a steeda timing adjuster, but i don't want to lose my traction control option. will the adjuster affect it? i don't want underdrive pullies because i don't care to slow my charging and cooling systems. the only other thing i'm planning on getting is a 75mm throttle body.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by chiaronate
yeah, i just got the pro-m and c&l plenum yesterday and put them on. not sure if i can tell the difference, but i know flow must have improved. as far as mufflers go, i think the stock mufflers are loud enough when going through the rpm's. i was thinking of getting a steeda timing adjuster, but i don't want to lose my traction control option. will the adjuster affect it? i don't want underdrive pullies because i don't care to slow my charging and cooling systems. the only other thing i'm planning on getting is a 75mm throttle body.

the timing adj has nothing to do with the traction control and the underdrives will not cause ANY charging or cooling problems. thats was a problem on the fox bodys

that T/B on your car which is stock is a waste of money
I run 12s will almost all the bolt ons and dont use a 75mm t/b I use a 70mm

not to sound rude but what do you want to do? you come on here asking ?(which is cool) but everything people say you respond with a reason why you dont want to do that

[chiaronate]

i wish you'd list the bolt-ons in your profile so i can see what they are. i put a c&l plenum and pro-m on mine a few days ago. i wasn't even considering a shifter until today. i went to the mustang show at jack byrne in mechanicville and someone with a mach 1 told me to try it out. i couldn't believe the difference in travel. part of what the traction control system does is retard timing. could it still do that with the timing adjuster? i don't see how. well, i'm also now considering gears, 3.73's or 4.10's because it feels like forever going through the gears. i'm happy with the sound of the exhaust system. i don't want anything too loud. how much will my rpm's differ with 3.73's or 4.10's? i'm guessing about 300 or 400 rpm.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by chiaronate
i wish you'd list the bolt-ons in your profile so i can see what they are. i put a c&l plenum and pro-m on mine a few days ago. i wasn't even considering a shifter until today. i went to the mustang show at jack byrne in mechanicville and someone with a mach 1 told me to try it out. i couldn't believe the difference in travel. part of what the traction control system does is retard timing. could it still do that with the timing adjuster? i don't see how. well, i'm also now considering gears, 3.73's or 4.10's because it feels like forever going through the gears. i'm happy with the sound of the exhaust system. i don't want anything too loud. how much will my rpm's differ with 3.73's or 4.10's? i'm guessing about 300 or 400 rpm.

how the timing adj works is by adding a new trigger wheel and moving the sensor so the computer is not being trick or locked out so it can still retard the timing. and yes the t/c will still work with a t/a.
mine no longer works cause of my spooled rear end

the dif. between 3.73 and 4.10 is only a few hundred rpm but performance is night and day

and yes if you have a 5-speed stang I would get a shifter
I would go with a steeda tri ax or pro 5.0

[chiaronate]

funny you mentioned shifter, i've just ordered a pro 5.0 from ebay. i went to the mustang car show in mechanicville today, and someone there had a 2003 mach 1 and asked me to sit in it and work the steeda tri-ax shifter. i couldn't believe the difference in travel. oh, by the way, i meant the difference in rpm's between 3.27's, and 3.73's or 4.10's. forgot to mention my stock gear ratio. i also didn't know about the steeda and 5.0 being spring loaded for easier 3rd. i ran into that problem more than once. it's kind of irritating.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by chiaronate
funny you mentioned shifter, i've just ordered a pro 5.0 from ebay. i went to the mustang car show in mechanicville today, and someone there had a 2003 mach 1 and asked me to sit in it and work the steeda tri-ax shifter. i couldn't believe the difference in travel. oh, by the way, i meant the difference in rpm's between 3.27's, and 3.73's or 4.10's. forgot to mention my stock gear ratio. i also didn't know about the steeda and 5.0 being spring loaded for easier 3rd. i ran into that problem more than once. it's kind of irritating.

I dont know the diff between them
but here with my 4.10s at 80 im at 3000
I get about 19-21 mpg on highway
20-24 city (I can use 5th at 30mph)

I will tell this I have owned 3 other mustang before this one and I have to say I made the mistake of not doing gears right away .

on this one 1st mod I did gears and will say this the car loves the 4.10s the 3.73s are a waste in the 99+ mod motor cars unless you going with a roots style blower

[chiaronate]

ok, so at 70 are you at 2500 with the 4.10's? i'm at 2000 at 65 with 3.27's. i was watching an old horsepower tv show and they put a flowmaster cat-back exhaust system on a 1996 gt, and picked up 16 horsepower. would the gains be the same on the PI mustangs, or alot different?

[xxxBlakexxx]

16 hp is A LOT from a catback. But, as a general rule, the more power the motor produces, the more you will gain from an intake or exhaust mod.

[xxxBlakexxx]

As a response to a previous post in this thread, my car ran 14.3 a few weeks ago, 970 feet altitude, 85 degrees and 94% humidity. Corrected, that's a 13.8.

I removed no weight, and left tire pressure stock, and granny shifted. Don't forget, I have a heavy-ass vert as well. However, I had hoped for better. Usinf my corrected time, I have shaved about .4 - .6 off my times stock I would think.

My 60 foot times were 2.0X. I need to drop some tire pressure and launch higher. I think I can drop my 60 foot to 1.8. With cooler temps, I am hoping get mid 13's if possible.

[chiaronate]

i hope you can do it, it would give me something to shoot for. the lowest e.t. i've seen from a completely stock car is a 13.7 in a mm&ff magazine. the magazine said it had clocked that time someplace else, but mm&ff was only able to get a 14.1. still, very good. in another issue of the same magazine, a completely stock mustang got a 14.1, but it was equipped with automatic transmission. not sure if they used any tricks, different tires etc. in addition to the mods in my signature, i have a pro 5.0 shifter on the way, and i also plan on getting a 75mm throttle body and port matching it to my plenum. possibly a power programmer and cat-back exhaust also. maybe i'll just get a mid-pipe with two converters, i think the extra two converters is where most of the power is lost. the stock mufflers sound pretty good. quiet at idle, and a nice tone under acceleration. i'm not into the noisy mufflers, i'd rather hear my radio and i'm only losing maybe 2 or 3 horsepower with the stock mufflers. i'm not getting pullies, as the 1994 i used to have didn't charge the battery when i was at idle. i had the fan on high, and my car almost didn't start because of the slow alternator speed. wow, i think this my longest thread ever. i hope you don't get eye strain reading it!

[xxxBlakexxx]

No worries about the thread being too long. We are just getting started. (lol)

I would not worry about the pullies on these later model cars. There are virtually no gripes about them. Stay with a good brand and you will have no trouble.

Magazine 1/4 mile times can be missleading as weather, tires, altitude, and driver can make a big difference. I saw most of the GT's running mid 14's that night. I was actually the fastest late-model NA GT their that night. A car on NOS was running 13.5.

[chiaronate]

what is a good brand for underdrive pullies? i had march on my 1994. if i get a good brand, can i sit at idle with the fan on max without charging problems? that's what i'd like to avoid. i don't race at the track, and i sit in traffic often.