Car and Driver!!!

[bstang46]

Has anyone read this months Car and Driver? They had the 01 GT in it. They rater it at 6.1 to 60 adn 14.7 in the 1/4 @ 96.xx (I think). I really dont think that is too accurate. I was just wondering what everyone else thought. Plus, if you have a 01 GT and have took it to the track what have you ran??

thanks

[blue00gt]

Obviously they don't know how to drive a new Stang. They are about 1/2 second off on both the 0-60 and 1/4 mile (unless it was an automatic that they tested). Bone stock mine ran a 14.2@98 with a crappy 60 ft. time. 0-60 should be in the mid-5 second range.

[This message has been edited by blue00gt (edited 10-31-2001).]

[Mercury]

It was an Automatic GT Convertable they tested. And they admitted they werent to hot with shifting it manually. They should ban sorry a$$ magazine drivers.

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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax. Ordered 4:10's.

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Future resto.

[DOMIN8R97]

Yeah those times suck. My 97 will almost do that bone stock. The 99 and up GT's have run 13.8 in the quarter in Motortrend with a 5 speed and it was a coupe not a vert.

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Red '97 Mustang GT
Auto
Bone Stock!
(Except for silencer)

[Ares]

Car & Driver do not beat on the cars they get very much. They seem to baby them to much. That explain some lousy numbers usually seen in their reports.

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My '00 GT
2000 GT Laser red-5speed,MAC Cold Air, MAC 2 1/2" Cat-Back, 3.27gears, Pro-5.0 shifter, Weld Draglite's 15x5 and 15x10, 275/50-15 DragT/A's, 165R15 front, BBK Underdrive pullies, BBK offroad X-pipe with Dynomax super converters

Best Quarter mile run to date: 13.296@101.99(9-9-01) Best MPH 102.42(9-9-01) Best 60' 1.844sec.

[bstang46]

Guys,
It was not a auto vert. It was a hardtop witha 5 speed. The 5 speed really doesnt matter with the new mod motors (99+). The automatic performs just as good as the 5 speed. That was written in some article in MM&FF. I dont remeber wich one.

[SMOKE]

Sounds like crappy drivers.

Those ETs look low but not low enough to equal averages reported by internet drivers.

[Mercury]

I have the Car & Driver were they did the Convertable Comparison. They got those times (If thats not them the other car turned in the same times then) from a 2001 Green GT COnvertable with an automatic.

As for the Auto in a new 4.6. It still makes a diffrence, noticable diffrence. Noticable on street and on paper. 15% power robber VS 20-25% power robber.

New auto 4.6's really begin to be at a disadvantage at the top of second and in third.

If your racing a 99+ Auto with a 99+ 5spd and you get a bad launch, you will catch them before ya hit 60-65 MPH and have them passed by 75. That is if drivers are equal.

I've had them get a car length head start (Usually because I didnt think they would race.) and have them passed by the time I hit 75 MPH.

On a side note, does anyone else have problems with breaking traction after the 4800 RPM mark in first gear?

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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax. Ordered 4:10's.

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Future resto.

[StoplightWarrior]

Originally posted by Mercury:

New auto 4.6's really begin to be at a disadvantage at the top of second and in third.

If your racing a 99+ Auto with a 99+ 5spd and you get a bad launch, you will catch them before ya hit 60-65 MPH and have them passed by 75. That is if drivers are equal.

I've had them get a car length head start (Usually because I didnt think they would race.) and have them passed by the time I hit 75 MPH.

Mercury: I agree with you about the Auto GT's lagging around 50-60. Before I put the X-pipe in, that is where my races would start to get close. However, after the pipe, the car pulls even more at about 50mph! It is like night and day! It is crazy how much the X-pipe helped. Im wondering, did you notice a huge gain from your H-pipe, cause I want to put one in the Cobra.

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Black 2000 GT Auto
Bassani X-pipe, Magnaflow Mufflers, Steeda Pulleys, K&N Filter. Steeda Weld in Subframes, Strut Tower brace, Sport Springs, Caster/Camber Plates.
Ran Once, 14.52@96.57 with a 1.32 R/T & 2.3 60'!!

Red 1994 Mustang Cobra #4343
Pulleys, Headers, Flows, Nittos, K&N filter, Shifter.

[Bigcarguy65]

my 01 gt auto bone stock in the 1/8 ran a 9.24 and now with k&n and flowmasters i run 9.1 consistantly with trc. ctrl. on and about a 1800 rpm launch

[Mercury]

StopLight.

Yeah, the H-pipe made a Noticable diffrence in performance, dont have track times to back anything up, but I have an extremely sensitive Butt.

Something else that made a noticable diffrence is the Resistor in the Air temp trick. Dont have that on my sig. Give it a try you'll be impressed. Poor mans way to advance timing on a 4.6.

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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax. Ordered 4:10's.

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Future resto.

[bstang46]

Tell me a little bit more about the Resistor in the Air temp trick. I havent heard anything about that.

Thanks,

[Mercury]

I'll get you the info needed to do it after I get back from work, but I'll tell you what it does.

It tricks the computer into thinking the temprature of the aircharge going into the intake is cooler than what it is.

You know with cooler weather and aircharge the computer advances the timing and the fuel mixture. It probably doesnt build as much power as putting a Timing adjuster on because the mixture is richened up (Probably hurts power alittle)

Example. If you gain 13 HP from the timing adjuster with 14% timing, the Resistor trick might only gain ya 9-10 HP at the wheels.

If you have an off road H-pipe and do this resistor trick, you'll notice alittle unburnt gas coming out the pipes on hard accerleration.

There are several resistor combos you can use to simulate diffrent air charge temps. Like when its 70 degrees outside, my computer reads 50 degrees.

No spark knock under extreme load and lugging.

Another thing that we road tested against other cars is Home Made Ram Air. WHile not as much of a gain, it will make a diffrence.

Tim C made a home made ram-air set up for his 99 GT and he could edge on me at 45-On up miles per hour.

People have a hard time believing our cars our basically stock except for a few bolt-ons. No one seems to believe me and TIm C but I tell ya, with alittle back yard know how (Back yard computer, and electrical knowledge) you'll give a LS-1 a REAL GOOD RUN for his money, especially if they expect to beat you by just toying around, He'll be seeing your taillights over and over again.

Its a beautifull site. Thats why I think Car and Driver times are Crap. They must put trained Monkeys in these cars to get these crappy times.

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64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list

2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax. Ordered 4:10's.

64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. Future resto.

[StoplightWarrior]

Hey Merc, I've heard of the resistor mod for F-bods, I didn't know you could also do it successfully for stangs, cool! Is there anything I need to worry about as far as damage to the engine, i.e. in really hot weather? Thanks.

[SD Wheeler]

Car & Driver?!!?!?!?!? MotorTrend?!?!?!? WTF are ya'll thinking????? Talk about hard up for reading material.

Rule #1: Don't read anything that road tests euro-crap or ricers.

'Nuff said.

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SD Wheeler
M/M #30 '98 GT
Strictly Performance
MV Performance

"The Game"

[Mercury]

No, I've been through Sweltering hot Southern days (90 degrees +) with it and have had no problem. THough it depends on the resistor you put in, you might run into some problems. I have 4 sets. I'll have to look at the resistor to see what total resistance is. Got them in my glove box.

[Tim C]

Mercury asked me to explain how the resistor is set up, so here goes:

Easy way to set it up: go to radio shack and get a 56K (That's 56,000) ohm resistor or a series of resistors that equals close to 56K, such as 22K + 33K. Cut either wire going to the air temp sensor (near the mass air meter), and solder the resistor in to the wire and tape or heat shrink over the bare wire. (If you use a combination of resistors, solder them in series in a line, like christmas lights.) Clear the computer (Fuse 21, 5A on 99+ cars) and let it rip. You may need higher octane gas, especially in the summer to prevent spark rattle.

Harder setup: Cut the same wire described above, and solder into it an inline blade type fuse holder. (At radio shack, you can get one that has a little rubber cap over the fuse and will hold a plastic colored blade fuse, not a glass fuse.) Then buy some of small spade terminals small enough to stick where the fuse goes. Then solder the 56K or combination (22K+33K+1K) into the terminals, along with say a 47K, and a 33K resistor, cover the bare wires with heat shrink or electrical tape, and mark them so you know what the combination is for later. Then you just plug the resistor of your choosing, into the fuse holder. Clear the computer (Fuse 21, 5A on 99+ cars), and go. If you experience spark knock on a hot day, you can put in a smaller resistor, or for emmisions testing, just put a good fuse in the holder, completeing the circuit.

I run 89 octane with mine with no rattle even on 90+ degree days with a 56K resistor. It basically keeps the timing bumped up and richens the mixture. It is more noticable on hot days (when cars seem to have least power anyway) because the amount it helps is less the colder it is out. On a 90* day the computer thinks its 50*, on a 50* day the comp. thinks it is 32*, 32*=15*, 15*=5*, 5*=-5*.

By the way, the resistor, the h-pipe, and the 4.10s gave me the biggest seat of the pants feel, although the homemade ram air did as Mercury pointed out help alittle at higher MPH.

Good luck,
Tim

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99 35th Anniversary Edition GT (Scoop on the sides and the hood, billet aluminum shift knob, special floormats, special rims), Black and Silver leather interior, Mach 460 Sound, 5 speed, Flowmasters, K&N Filter, Steeda Triax Shifter, Flowtech H-pipe (hopefully gears soon)

[StoplightWarrior]

Thanks!