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03-13-2004, 12:35 PM | #21 |
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Hey, CJ Pony Parts in Harrisburg PA (which is not far from MD) does EVERYTHING on Mustangs. They are putting in my 3.73 for me (yeah, I am going with the 3.73...seems like best fit for us).
here is what they charge: Gears - $189 Other parts - $89 Labor - $230 I bought my gears at mustangtuning.com for $149. So that should be a complete job for under $500 AND they warrenty all their work. I am having them install my subframes and exhaust at the same time. How close do you live to Harrisburg? They are North of the city on Rt 22. I would say from the Baltimore Airport, CJ Pony is about 90 minutes.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
03-13-2004, 12:51 PM | #22 |
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you guys that are getting gears
go to www.gefracing.com they sell the gear sets for 139 for all getting gears good luck cause I see a few getting 3.73s all i can say is 3.73s suck for the 99+ the reason 3.73 were so great for 5.0s is cause 1st they came with 2.73 or the autos 3.08 and the 5.0s made more power down low with a peak horepower around 4400 but the mod motor needs the extra gear,they peak at 5000 (not 5250) so you need to shift at around 55-5700(stock) . with a 3.73 gear it will put you way out of the power band when it comes to drag racing at the end of the track causing your times to not be what they should be
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RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________ |
03-13-2004, 02:20 PM | #23 |
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Ok, I think I understand what you are saying. Basically, the 4.10's put you in a better "sweet spot" when running the 1/4 mile? You end the race at the peak rpms for hp? Is this what you are basically saying? Makes sense if it is true (And I am sure that it is).
Most guys hear seem to agree that 4.10's are a better gear selection than 3.73s. But, when I talk other experts at performance shops, i am being told to go with the 3.73s. Explicitone, I want to make the right choice and I can always appreciate good advice. I can always change my order...it is no big deal. My major concern is that my wife drives this car a lot too and I don't want any complaints from her. My goal in going with different gears is to give the car more pep but I am not that concerned about the track. You could really help me if you could tell me how I can find the gear ratios for each gear when using 3.73 or 4.10's. I would like to input this data into a computer analyzer and see how they compare. Do you follow me? I can get the data for the 3.23's but not the others. Or, do I just convert it? If so, how? Thanks!
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
03-13-2004, 02:34 PM | #24 |
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Location: Maryland
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Blake...since you mentioned your wife driving the car...with 4:10's your shift from 1st to 2nd is going to be rather quick. Some who are not "into" performance driving can get annoyed with this. With 3:73's I doubt that your going to notice a big difference.
IMO, I would still go with 4:10's...don't be scared it's going to be too much...cause it ain't. As stated before, you will smile for months...
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03-13-2004, 02:48 PM | #25 |
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Location: houston
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If you're looking for more low end torque without spending a lot then gears are the way to go. They will effect your gas milage some, but not horribly. 3.73s are fine for a daily driver, especially if you do plan on adding a supercharger some day. If the supercharger is just a dream then go with the 4.10s. Now if you want REAL low end torque with essentially no effect on gas milage then add nitrous. You'll get lots of torque and you'll only use more gas when you need it, that is when you spray. But the rest of the day you'll get the same gas millage as normal. When it comes time to get your blower, a Ken Bell or roots type will give you more low end torque while a centrifugal blower like a vortech or paxton gradually kicks in but peaks higher and at a higher rpm.
Good luck! |
03-13-2004, 09:14 PM | #26 |
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I am VERY interested in nitrous! And have been doing much research on this to learn as much as I can. You guys have virtually sold on the 4.10's and I am going to have to make a few calls on Monday. Hopefully, they did not ship my 3.73's yet. But, I would rather be happy, then spend a few extra $ on freight.
Interesting though, NOBODY has told me to go with the 3.73's. Sure, lots are happy with them, but no one has jumped out and said 3.73 are the way to go over the 4.10's. With that said, what gears should I have with nitrous? I will ask the POWER ADDERS too this question as I am planning on adding nitrous within 12 months. I will let that be the driving force on this decision.
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
03-14-2004, 04:56 PM | #27 | |
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Quote:
put this way people that are worried about gears if the rain try driving a mustang with a spooled rearend and 4.10s in the rain guess what just as easy as when stock NO PROBLEMS gears and n2o can be a tricky one Im running 4.10 and n2o(100 shot) but with running a 100 shot I need to raise my limiter to 6500(I will trap at 6100 I just dont want the n2o to shut off in the last 200ft) now with a 75 shot you would be fine people that dont know the mod motors or take the advise from someone that knows older cars )5.0s camaros etc...etc..) will always tell you 3.73s the shop I had mine done they were like your going to drive 4.10s on the street and **** and now the new shop that did my rear they were like your going to drive a spool on the street and well I can drive both without a problem. if you 1/4 race I would get the 4.10s and then just turn the spray on in 2nd gear so you dont have the traction issues you would going off the line on the spray
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RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________ |
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03-14-2004, 10:06 PM | #28 |
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Location: Michigan
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DAMN $1000 is alot of money for gears. I got ripped off but I only payed $689.63 but I got the FRPP 4:10's, labor to install them, speedo gear and a rebuilt trac-lock.
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03-14-2004, 11:38 PM | #29 | |
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Quote:
now if thats only labor yeah thats jacked up cause i only paid 592$ for install on my spool,axles,c-chip elims(you have to cut the axle tubes down and hace the brake plates on machined down to work with the c0chip elim) all new bearings subframe connectors welded in and axle tubes welded thats was for all labor and bearings the rest I brought
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RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________ |
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03-15-2004, 01:32 AM | #30 |
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How do you know if you should rebuild the trac-lock
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"Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way) |
03-15-2004, 01:37 AM | #31 | |
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Quote:
if your getting the 1 wheel peel when you get on a open back road rev it a little and do a burnout if only one wheel spins it needs to be rebuilt
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RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________ |
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03-16-2004, 01:42 AM | #32 |
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Ok... question..
I am thinking of caming & gearing mine... Comp Cams suggests 3.55 gears with their 102200 4.6 SOHC Mild street Cam And you are all suggesting WAY lower gears. Why? Is it just because no one has brought up Cams, and only talked about n2o and/or superchargers??? I have no plans for nos or supercharging. But I DO want a little more lower end power. I heard the above cam is awesome. Anyone have it? If so, what kind of hp & trq does it add? Any suggestions? Thanks,
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Torch Red '02 GT Convertible 5 spd BBK long tubes, BBK h-pipe, MAC mufflers, K&N w/ silencer trimmed, FRPP 70mm throttle body, C&L plenum, Mobil1 synthetic fluids, FRPP aluminum drive shaft, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, FRPP 4.10's, 18x9 & 18x10 Saleens with Dunlop SP Super Sport Race rubber, Mach1 grill (GT delete), & Mach1 bumper chin! Click here for pictures & more info! If you are in Northern California, check out North Bay Mustang Club for local meets and cruises! |
03-16-2004, 02:43 PM | #33 |
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Numerically higher gears will work better with the cam, too. They just say 3.55s minimum because you're losing some low end with the cam and you don't want it to take forever to get into the power band.
4.10s minimum for a '99+ GT; I don't care if it's an auto or 5-speed. The optimum gear for a car depends on the engine's powerband, gearing in the tranny, etc. 3.73's are great for '96-'98 4.6 2Vs and 5.0s, but they make power down lower than the newer motors do. I have driven 1500 miles in a weekend with my 4.10s and didn't mind them at all.
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Strike down the unroadworthy! 2000 GT Atl. Blue: '03 Cobra motor - 465rwhp/473rwtq, T-56 6-speed, full MM TA/PH & tubular K-member suspension, Saleen body, 17" Torq-Thrust II's, M/T ET Street radials, and lots more '94 Rio Red Cobra: All the bolt-ons, 3.73s |
03-17-2004, 01:53 AM | #34 |
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No, they suggest 3.55's maximum for that cam
And that cam doesnt take any low end, it gives more low end. It moves the complete powerband down a little. low end kicks in sooner and peak isnt as high rpm as stock. take a look at their site. let me know what you think. I'm not arguing the gear ratio opinion, I've gathered that EVERYONE likes the 4.10's better... but I am needing to know what exactly that cam is gonna give me. I'm not a dragstrip racer, so I want to mix the best cam with the best gears to get a good low end pull like in 4th or 5th gear and still have the peak horse power as well. Has anyone else noticed that in 4th or 5th... anything below 2800 or so... is gutless! I wanna be able to pass the slow pokes without downshifting!
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Torch Red '02 GT Convertible 5 spd BBK long tubes, BBK h-pipe, MAC mufflers, K&N w/ silencer trimmed, FRPP 70mm throttle body, C&L plenum, Mobil1 synthetic fluids, FRPP aluminum drive shaft, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, FRPP 4.10's, 18x9 & 18x10 Saleens with Dunlop SP Super Sport Race rubber, Mach1 grill (GT delete), & Mach1 bumper chin! Click here for pictures & more info! If you are in Northern California, check out North Bay Mustang Club for local meets and cruises! |
03-17-2004, 03:06 AM | #35 |
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then thats cam would not be very good for drag racing/street racing cause you pend more time from 3500 -6000 the only time you would below that would on the 1st gear hit you would not be there to long
I would much rather use either the stage 1 or 2 vtengines cams they seem to make more power the stage 2 cams on stock heeded(nonP&P) with stock headers picked up 22rwhp the stage 1 on a stock headed car with long tubes and bullit manifold picked up 22rwhp
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RUN IT STAIGHT AND RUN IT HARD ________ Novi 2000 60' 1.46 1/4 10.67 mph 126.5 _________ |
03-17-2004, 12:56 PM | #36 |
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Yeah I read all that too.
but does anyone know how much hp & trq the comp cam adds, on a completely stock motor???
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Torch Red '02 GT Convertible 5 spd BBK long tubes, BBK h-pipe, MAC mufflers, K&N w/ silencer trimmed, FRPP 70mm throttle body, C&L plenum, Mobil1 synthetic fluids, FRPP aluminum drive shaft, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, FRPP 4.10's, 18x9 & 18x10 Saleens with Dunlop SP Super Sport Race rubber, Mach1 grill (GT delete), & Mach1 bumper chin! Click here for pictures & more info! If you are in Northern California, check out North Bay Mustang Club for local meets and cruises! |
03-30-2006, 06:31 PM | #37 |
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Re: Need low end torque
hey guys iam installing 4.10s this weekend on a 98 gt auto anything i should know? and how do i recal the spedo on a auto? thanks
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03-31-2006, 12:52 AM | #38 |
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Posts: 50
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Re: Need low end torque
Guys, I can see how 4.10's would work well in a 1/4 mile situation. But, how about in a road race type situation. I am starting to get more into the road race thing, and less into drag racing. My buddy has a WRX Sti which I think comes with 4.10's and it is a pain to drive around the track, he is constantly having to shift.
Which company is it that sells 3.90 gears? I think that would be a better fit, but I am just starting to do the research so I have time... |
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