mil eliminators.......50 bucks for nothin

slow98 · 01-25-2002, 11:09 PM

i recently purchased the mil eliminators from dallas mustang and installed them about 2 weeks ago....... well last night i was on my way back from droppin off my girl and guess what, the wonderful check engine light pops on...hmmmmm imagine that..... today i started the car and it came back on right when i started it and never went off, is this what always happens? maybe i just have to take the positive battery cable off ever other day to keep it off who knows, let me know what u guys think, could there possibly be somthin else wrong with my car?

any info would be greatly appreciated....thanks

BlackOnBlackCobra96 · 01-28-2002, 01:53 PM

Maybe something else is wrong with your engine. Why don't you pull the codes. My local Autozone parts store lends tools for free -- I wonder if you have a place like that where you can get a diagnostic tool.

Also, double check to make sure everything is installed properly. I've got them in my car and the work great. Of course you can get a custom chip and turn the code off so you wouldn't even need MIL's.

98'MustangGT · 01-30-2002, 12:58 AM

Mine came on after 500 or so miles of use. But, it was raining pretty heavy, so I let the car sit and dry and disconnected the battery and now they work fine. Couldn't say forsure, but like slow98 said, pull the code, maybe something else is wrong.

95GTS · 01-30-2002, 03:13 PM

Pulling the code would be good. I would disconnect the battery for a while to clear the computer. Then see if it still wants to come on after a while. If so, there's something else wrong and pull the codes.

96HskerCobra · 02-02-2002, 10:56 PM

Pull the codes before you make judgement on the MIL Eliminators.

Seeing that we've sold over 800 sets, and had to troubleshoot countless installs, 99% of the time, the MIL Eliminators aren't at fault.

Dan Smith
Pony Express Performance
www.mileliminators.com
www.ponyexpressperformance.com

slow98 · 02-03-2002, 10:22 PM

well, its been a few more days and the check engine light goes of at times but stays on more than off, i am just curious that if the check engine light is on would i not get a negative reading when pulling the codes anyway??or are the sensors in the exauhst only one of many sensors that can make the light come on? im gonna disco the positive cable off the battery tommorow i will keep u posted on what happens, as far as the installation its so simple i dont know how anyone could make a mistake but maybe there is more to it than meets the eye, thanks for the info...

96HskerCobra · 02-03-2002, 10:41 PM

If your check engine light is going on and off, it isn't the MIL Eliminators. If it were a rear o2 sensor problem, the code would stay on all the time, and would only go off if you reset the codes by either unplugging the battery, or clearing them with a code scanner.

Without seeing the codes, I'm afraid we can only offer the following advise. Keep in mind you are using a competitors MIL Eliminators.

Pull the codes, and email the code #'s to me, and we'll walk you through how to fix your problem.

Dan Smith
www.ponyexpressperformance.com
info@mileliminators.com

stangman96 · 02-04-2002, 07:56 PM

do what they say, read your codes, if you are able to, read the voltages of your upstream and downstream o2 sensors, with the eliminators, you should see roughly a 5 volt signal, the originals like to hover around that area, if you have other than that voltage or a fluctuating voltage, look for vacuum leaks, providing you have no other codes.. you upstreams should be varying from .1 volt to .8 volts and rapidly changing hot.. if can get the codes, e-mail me, i do work at an svt dealership.... hope this helps

96HskerCobra · 02-04-2002, 08:01 PM

5 volts?

With MIL Eliminators, you will see a fluctuating voltage of between .5-.99 volts at the rear o2 sensors on the black wire. Without MIL Eliminators, you will see a fluctuating voltage of .1-.9 volts at the rear o2 sensor on the black wire.

MIL Eliminators are merely low-pass filters that keep the voltage above .45 volts and oscillate the voltage between .5-.9 volts to keep the PCM thinking the cats are still there.

stangman96 · 02-04-2002, 08:12 PM

96hsker, sorry, my bad, puter is so messed up, i cant see the decimal point, i did mean (.) 5==== sorry for the confusion

slow98 · 02-04-2002, 09:57 PM

thanks for all the posts guys, i appreciate all your help, as soon as i get a chance im gonna get some codes on here,thanks again

Mercury · 02-04-2002, 11:02 PM

I know an engine misfire will set a check engine light that goes on and off over periods of time. Tim C and I made our own MIL eliminators, his has held up, but mine fried.

Just to be on the safe side I took it to the dealership were he works so we could pull the codes. It threw and O2 code, but there are also several other things that will throw the same code number. I cant remember what they are at the moment (I'm at work, my brain functions diffrently

), but we checked them out and everything else checked out okay.

It use to do the same thing, on a few days, off a few days, now its on all the time. Mine also started happening on a real rainy day. I'm just to lazy to build me another, and not to be in such a hurry this time.

01-25-2002, 11:09 PM	#1
slow98 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: draper,va,us Posts: 206	mil eliminators.......50 bucks for nothin i recently purchased the mil eliminators from dallas mustang and installed them about 2 weeks ago....... well last night i was on my way back from droppin off my girl and guess what, the wonderful check engine light pops on...hmmmmm imagine that..... today i started the car and it came back on right when i started it and never went off, is this what always happens? maybe i just have to take the positive battery cable off ever other day to keep it off who knows, let me know what u guys think, could there possibly be somthin else wrong with my car? any info would be greatly appreciated....thanks __________________ 1998 mustang gt/manual..373s,bbk offroad h pipe,flowmaster cat back,c&l 80 mm maf,steeda triax,eibach springs,steeda ud pulleys,upr timing adjuster,screamon demos coil packs,motorsports 9mm plug wires,steea aluminum lca's,steeda heavy duty uca's and just over 100 k on the clock

01-28-2002, 01:53 PM	#2
BlackOnBlackCobra96 Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8	Maybe something else is wrong with your engine. Why don't you pull the codes. My local Autozone parts store lends tools for free -- I wonder if you have a place like that where you can get a diagnostic tool. Also, double check to make sure everything is installed properly. I've got them in my car and the work great. Of course you can get a custom chip and turn the code off so you wouldn't even need MIL's. __________________ Bassani cat-back Bassani off-road X pipe with MIL eliminators Steeda Tri-Ax FMS 4.10s K & N Mobile One Chrome Cobra R Wheels (real ones) Saleen S281 wing Clear parking lights Window tint

01-30-2002, 12:58 AM	#3
98'MustangGT Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Raymond, MN Posts: 240	Mine came on after 500 or so miles of use. But, it was raining pretty heavy, so I let the car sit and dry and disconnected the battery and now they work fine. Couldn't say forsure, but like slow98 said, pull the code, maybe something else is wrong. __________________ 1998 Mustang GT Mods -K&N Airfilter- -Classic Design Concepts Side Exit Exhaust- -MGW Satin Shift Knob- -Moroso Hood Pins- -MAC White Face Gauges- -MAC O/R H-pipe- - MIL Eliminators- -Steeda Strut Tower Brace- -Steeda Aluminum Pedals- -Fog light re-wire-

01-30-2002, 03:13 PM	#4
95GTS Git jiggy Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: MO USA Posts: 865	Pulling the code would be good. I would disconnect the battery for a while to clear the computer. Then see if it still wants to come on after a while. If so, there's something else wrong and pull the codes. __________________ 1967 Mustang Coupe

02-03-2002, 10:22 PM	#6
slow98 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: draper,va,us Posts: 206	pulling codes well, its been a few more days and the check engine light goes of at times but stays on more than off, i am just curious that if the check engine light is on would i not get a negative reading when pulling the codes anyway??or are the sensors in the exauhst only one of many sensors that can make the light come on? im gonna disco the positive cable off the battery tommorow i will keep u posted on what happens, as far as the installation its so simple i dont know how anyone could make a mistake but maybe there is more to it than meets the eye, thanks for the info... __________________ 1998 mustang gt/manual..373s,bbk offroad h pipe,flowmaster cat back,c&l 80 mm maf,steeda triax,eibach springs,steeda ud pulleys,upr timing adjuster,screamon demos coil packs,motorsports 9mm plug wires,steea aluminum lca's,steeda heavy duty uca's and just over 100 k on the clock

02-02-2002, 10:56 PM	#5
96HskerCobra Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Overland Park, KS Posts: 4	Pull the codes before you make judgement on the MIL Eliminators. Seeing that we've sold over 800 sets, and had to troubleshoot countless installs, 99% of the time, the MIL Eliminators aren't at fault. Dan Smith Pony Express Performance www.mileliminators.com www.ponyexpressperformance.com

02-03-2002, 10:41 PM	#7
96HskerCobra Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Overland Park, KS Posts: 4	If your check engine light is going on and off, it isn't the MIL Eliminators. If it were a rear o2 sensor problem, the code would stay on all the time, and would only go off if you reset the codes by either unplugging the battery, or clearing them with a code scanner. Without seeing the codes, I'm afraid we can only offer the following advise. Keep in mind you are using a competitors MIL Eliminators. Pull the codes, and email the code #'s to me, and we'll walk you through how to fix your problem. Dan Smith www.ponyexpressperformance.com info@mileliminators.com

02-04-2002, 07:56 PM	#8
stangman96 Ford Dealer Mechanic Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: San Antonio Teaxs Posts: 31	do what they say, read your codes, if you are able to, read the voltages of your upstream and downstream o2 sensors, with the eliminators, you should see roughly a 5 volt signal, the originals like to hover around that area, if you have other than that voltage or a fluctuating voltage, look for vacuum leaks, providing you have no other codes.. you upstreams should be varying from .1 volt to .8 volts and rapidly changing hot.. if can get the codes, e-mail me, i do work at an svt dealership.... hope this helps

02-04-2002, 08:01 PM	#9
96HskerCobra Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Overland Park, KS Posts: 4	5 volts? With MIL Eliminators, you will see a fluctuating voltage of between .5-.99 volts at the rear o2 sensors on the black wire. Without MIL Eliminators, you will see a fluctuating voltage of .1-.9 volts at the rear o2 sensor on the black wire. MIL Eliminators are merely low-pass filters that keep the voltage above .45 volts and oscillate the voltage between .5-.9 volts to keep the PCM thinking the cats are still there.

02-04-2002, 08:12 PM	#10
stangman96 Ford Dealer Mechanic Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: San Antonio Teaxs Posts: 31	96hsker, sorry, my bad, puter is so messed up, i cant see the decimal point, i did mean (.) 5==== sorry for the confusion

02-04-2002, 09:57 PM	#11
slow98 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: draper,va,us Posts: 206	thanks thanks for all the posts guys, i appreciate all your help, as soon as i get a chance im gonna get some codes on here,thanks again __________________ 1998 mustang gt/manual..373s,bbk offroad h pipe,flowmaster cat back,c&l 80 mm maf,steeda triax,eibach springs,steeda ud pulleys,upr timing adjuster,screamon demos coil packs,motorsports 9mm plug wires,steea aluminum lca's,steeda heavy duty uca's and just over 100 k on the clock

02-04-2002, 11:02 PM	#12
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	I know an engine misfire will set a check engine light that goes on and off over periods of time. Tim C and I made our own MIL eliminators, his has held up, but mine fried. Just to be on the safe side I took it to the dealership were he works so we could pull the codes. It threw and O2 code, but there are also several other things that will throw the same code number. I cant remember what they are at the moment (I'm at work, my brain functions diffrently ), but we checked them out and everything else checked out okay. It use to do the same thing, on a few days, off a few days, now its on all the time. Mine also started happening on a real rainy day. I'm just to lazy to build me another, and not to be in such a hurry this time. __________________ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. Red Baron, 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. Stage 2 CNC heads with Large Valves, Comp Cams (270-274 dur .550 lift), Forged Crank, DRP pistons, Manly H-beams, Pro M 87 mm Mass Air, 24lb Inj, 75mm TB, Plenum Spacer ,Long Tube Headers, Homemade H-pipe, 2 chamber Flows, 4:10's, Steeda Tri-Ax, LKW 70/30's, Eibach Drag Springs, Steeda SubFrames, Battle Boxes, Rear Girdle, Adj uppers, Alunimum Drshft, Southside Lift Bars. Project Cars, 64 1/2 6cyl coupe, 1930 Model A Nostalgia Rod.

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