Which pullies should i get?

MineralGray02K · 09-10-2002, 07:45 PM

I have a 2002 Mustang GT 5 speed, and I have the air silencer gone, with a K & N drop in, and the flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber mufflers...My next mod is going to be pullies, but I don't know which set to get. I'm guessing it's either between summit's BBK pully set, or Steeda's pully set. Thanks guys.

P.S. I hope you all well tommarow for 9-11, and god bless if you lost any loved ones.

Shelby428cj · 09-10-2002, 08:56 PM

I always hear good things about the steedas!!!!

See Ya,
Karen

Illini · 09-10-2002, 09:19 PM

I went with the steedas mainly becuase of their quality. There crank pulley is one peice with the harmonic balancer, which is sfi race approved. The BBK crank pulley is a piggyback type, I think. I know that the steeda timing adjuster only works with the steeda pulleys and maybe the stock crank pulley. Install is straight forward. You'll just need a harmonic balancer puller ( rent from autozone). If you got impact gun you can zip off alt. pulley ( the alt will have to come off the car). Water pumps 4 bolts to change pump pulley. Just remember to use rtv on crank pulley keyway, and follow steedas torque to yield instructions on the crank pulley. It sounds complicated but it's really not bad just take your time. I don't think a shop would charge too much, but the install only took me little over an hour, shop would probably go about 2-3 hrs.

DH

MineralGray02K · 09-10-2002, 10:03 PM

Thanks guys...I am going to order the Steeda ones tommarow most likely. I can have on the Steeda pullies w/o the timing adjuster for now right? Then later on I can put on the adjuster?

Illini, have you ever brought your car to the track or to the dyno? I would love to know how much all your mods impacted your times and hp.

Also, how do I go about taking off the door panaling? I purchased the Bullitt door locks and I have to take off the panaling to install the full lock, but I don't want to snap any clips or anything. Thanks.

Mustang92 · 09-11-2002, 08:07 AM

Quote:

I can have on the Steeda pullies w/o the timing adjuster for now right?

Yes they are two separate pieces.

Bill

Illini · 09-11-2002, 10:33 AM

Never had it to the track or dynoed, this fall I'll be working for a guy up near Clinton,Il., home of Anderson Ford and they have an dyno as well as being a SVT dealership. Sidenote; they had a write up a couple issues ago in MM&FF about a F150 they supercharged. I saw it one day up there and it was bad ***, of course so were they Lightnings and cobra they had sitting there. As usual Bill is correct about the timimg adjuster. As far as the Bullitt door locks I couldn't tell you, might have to get a service manual for your mustang they usually have interior repair in them also. Speaking of which I need one too, they're kinda nice to have if you plan to work on your vehicle.

Mustang92 · 09-11-2002, 12:00 PM

You shouldn't have to remove the door panel for door locks. You just have to unscrew them from the top, take you about 1 minute.

Bill

MineralGray02K · 09-11-2002, 12:24 PM

Mustang92,

I wish it was that easy...They are the full door lock rod thingy, not just the cap. I can't just un-screw them, I gotta actually replace the entire long rod thing that goes up and down. And I figured the only way is to remove the door panals.

09-10-2002, 07:45 PM	#1
MineralGray02K Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: New York Posts: 75	Which pullies should i get? I have a 2002 Mustang GT 5 speed, and I have the air silencer gone, with a K & N drop in, and the flowmaster 40 series 2 chamber mufflers...My next mod is going to be pullies, but I don't know which set to get. I'm guessing it's either between summit's BBK pully set, or Steeda's pully set. Thanks guys. P.S. I hope you all well tommarow for 9-11, and god bless if you lost any loved ones. __________________ Mustang Write Ups

09-10-2002, 08:56 PM	#2
Shelby428cj Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 510	I always hear good things about the steedas!!!! See Ya, Karen __________________ Karen Wells, Moderator The Mustang Works Magazine http://www.mustangworks.com 1969 Mustang (Project Rice Eater) 1999 Silver Mustang Saleen S281 (SQ car for stereo contests) SQ Goddess My Stereo Bro "tireburner163"

09-10-2002, 09:19 PM	#3
Illini Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 44	steedas I went with the steedas mainly becuase of their quality. There crank pulley is one peice with the harmonic balancer, which is sfi race approved. The BBK crank pulley is a piggyback type, I think. I know that the steeda timing adjuster only works with the steeda pulleys and maybe the stock crank pulley. Install is straight forward. You'll just need a harmonic balancer puller ( rent from autozone). If you got impact gun you can zip off alt. pulley ( the alt will have to come off the car). Water pumps 4 bolts to change pump pulley. Just remember to use rtv on crank pulley keyway, and follow steedas torque to yield instructions on the crank pulley. It sounds complicated but it's really not bad just take your time. I don't think a shop would charge too much, but the install only took me little over an hour, shop would probably go about 2-3 hrs. DH __________________ 2002 min gray GT: steeda underdrives, timing adjuster, triax, C&L maf, MM strut tower brace and k-member brace, Steeda subs weld-in, steeda tubular front sway bar, bullitt springs ,struts(tokico's)and shocks, bullitt gas door, alum.pedals, MM panhard Bar, cobra 13" front brake upgrade. ON THE WAY TO BECOMING A TRACK ***** 66' 2 dr malibu; 355 cube 4-bolt main, steel crank, chevy pink rods, KB 10.7 to1 pistons, ported double humps 202&160, torkerII intake, rejetted holley 650 D.P., crane ignition box, comp.cam roller rockers& 280 degree cam, balanced to 8500 rpm, hooker super comps, 3000 rpm stall and built turbo 350 tranny. dynoed at 543hp and 582 tq

09-10-2002, 10:03 PM	#4
MineralGray02K Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: New York Posts: 75	Thanks guys...I am going to order the Steeda ones tommarow most likely. I can have on the Steeda pullies w/o the timing adjuster for now right? Then later on I can put on the adjuster? Illini, have you ever brought your car to the track or to the dyno? I would love to know how much all your mods impacted your times and hp. Also, how do I go about taking off the door panaling? I purchased the Bullitt door locks and I have to take off the panaling to install the full lock, but I don't want to snap any clips or anything. Thanks. __________________ Mustang Write Ups

09-11-2002, 10:33 AM	#6
Illini Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Illinois Posts: 44	mineral gray02K Never had it to the track or dynoed, this fall I'll be working for a guy up near Clinton,Il., home of Anderson Ford and they have an dyno as well as being a SVT dealership. Sidenote; they had a write up a couple issues ago in MM&FF about a F150 they supercharged. I saw it one day up there and it was bad *, of course so were they Lightnings and cobra they had sitting there. As usual Bill is correct about the timimg adjuster. As far as the Bullitt door locks I couldn't tell you, might have to get a service manual for your mustang they usually have interior repair in them also. Speaking of which I need one too, they're kinda nice to have if you plan to work on your vehicle. __________________ 2002 min gray GT: steeda underdrives, timing adjuster, triax, C&L maf, MM strut tower brace and k-member brace, Steeda subs weld-in, steeda tubular front sway bar, bullitt springs ,struts(tokico's)and shocks, bullitt gas door, alum.pedals, MM panhard Bar, cobra 13" front brake upgrade. ON THE WAY TO BECOMING A TRACK *** 66' 2 dr malibu; 355 cube 4-bolt main, steel crank, chevy pink rods, KB 10.7 to1 pistons, ported double humps 202&160, torkerII intake, rejetted holley 650 D.P., crane ignition box, comp.cam roller rockers& 280 degree cam, balanced to 8500 rpm, hooker super comps, 3000 rpm stall and built turbo 350 tranny. dynoed at 543hp and 582 tq

09-11-2002, 12:00 PM	#7
Mustang92 Drag Racer! Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Lake Worth, FL USA Posts: 757	You shouldn't have to remove the door panel for door locks. You just have to unscrew them from the top, take you about 1 minute. Bill __________________ 2000 GT VRS O/R X, Dynomax Bullets, Steeda Pulleys, Pro-M 80MM, 4.30s, UPR Pro Series Suspension, UPR Tubular K-member, MAC Longtubes, Bullitt Intake, TKO, VT Engine Stage 1 NA Cams, SCT Tune. 285 RWHP/296 RWTQ 11.97 @ 113.20 M/M 100, 7085 www.uprproducts.com www.ponyexpressperformance.com www.modulardepot.com

09-11-2002, 12:24 PM	#8
MineralGray02K Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: New York Posts: 75	Mustang92, I wish it was that easy...They are the full door lock rod thingy, not just the cap. I can't just un-screw them, I gotta actually replace the entire long rod thing that goes up and down. And I figured the only way is to remove the door panals. __________________ Mustang Write Ups

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