MAF upgrade question

[Bob99GTConv]

I recently installed the Accufab 75mmTB/plenum. Also have a discount in-the-fender CAI kit. Still have the stock MAF. Stock is 70mm correct? Should I go 80 or 85mm? Should I also upgrade the injecters to 24 pounders? I understand Pro-M is the best and doesnt require any ECU re-programming but I think Im in need of a dyno-tune anyway since the new tb/pleunum put me at 14.06 in the quarter and I should be in the mid 13's with my other mods althouh I am getting a bit of tire spin on launch. Any input?

[xxxBlakexxx]

The MAF and injectors would not do anything for you. You need to be making quite a bit more power. The stock MAF and injectors are capable of supporting something like 350 rwhp. I run more than that when spraying, and my fuel is able to keep up. So, unless the voltage from the MAF is pegged, changing will not help at all.


Also, when making that swap, you need a dyno tune.

The TB and Plenum do not require a tune by themselves. They will cause you to run a little more lean, but that is in part how they make more power. The amount of leaning is subtle.

A 14.0 with those mods is not bad. It is really hard to say, because I don't know more about the run. 60 ft times and trap speed would tell me what I need to know PLUS altitude, temp and pressure. That might be an Good time for PA where I live, an OK time for FL and an amazing time for places in Colorado. Altitude makes a huge difference.

You next option might be gears and better tires. With 4.10's and DR's, the car is capable of running 13.0 with practise. I am not a big fan of DR's though, as you really can't use them on the street. They suck in the rain and wear too fast. I like to race they way my car is when it is on the street.

Or, you may want to stop screwing around and put a nice 100 shot of nitrous on it and drop right into the 12's.

[Bob99GTConv]

Thanks for the post Blake. If you look at my sig file you will see I have 3.73's already and DR's. My 60 ft was 2.02. 70 degress or so in Louisiana so its humid. So I guess headers and an O/R X are my next moves then huh?

[Bob99GTConv]

oh, at 97mph

[Bob99GTConv]

oh, and it is my understanding that moving up to an 80-85mm MAF will fool the PCM into thinking it needs more fuel and thereby spraying mor fuel and that is why people upgrade those even though the stock ones will work without pegging the voltagge. I read some long article on it on here.

[xxxBlakexxx]

Originally Posted by Bob99GTConv

Thanks for the post Blake. If you look at my sig file you will see I have 3.73's already and DR's. My 60 ft was 2.02. 70 degress or so in Louisiana so its humid. So I guess headers and an O/R X are my next moves then huh?

Don't forget practice. A 2.02 with DR's is respectable, but 1.8 should be your goal. I nail 2.0's all day long with street tires and I know there is a 1.9 or even a 1.8 in there somewhere by dropping tire pressure properly.

Dropping .2 off your 60 ft will take .3 - .4 off the 1/4 mile.

Headers and or X? Sounds good to me!

[xxxBlakexxx]

Originally Posted by Bob99GTConv

oh, at 97mph

97 is a tad on the slow side. That tells us how much hp you are making. A catted X should get you to near 99 mph. Headers, you should hit 100 mph +.

With just the X pipe and pulling your passenger side headlight out, you should trap at 99 or higher.

[xxxBlakexxx]

Originally Posted by Bob99GTConv

oh, and it is my understanding that moving up to an 80-85mm MAF will fool the PCM into thinking it needs more fuel and thereby spraying mor fuel and that is why people upgrade those even though the stock ones will work without pegging the voltagge. I read some long article on it on here.

That makes the car run more lean! What actually happens is that the car thinks it is pulling in the same amount of air, but is actually adding more. If you go to a bigger MAF and injectors tuned for the MAF, you will get more power only if the setp was tapped out before. You need to make mor epower before this happens.