Mods for the Green Machine... What do you think?

BUFFMUSTANG · 02-09-2004, 01:33 PM

Ok here are my very near future mods for my car, the green machine as everyone likes to call it....

1. JBA Cat-Foward Shorty Headers.
2. 4.10 Ford Racing Gears.
3. Pro 5.0 shifter. Where do i get the longer handle?
4. BBK U/D Pulleys.
5. C&L 80mm MAF System with TrueFlow Inlet Pipe.
6. Accufab 75mm TB.
7. C&L Intake Plenum.
8. Dyno W/Chip.

All i have right now is welded in 1 Chamber flows, my best run at the track was a 13.998 @ 101 W/ 2.279 60FT.. It's a 2001 GT..
I'm going to use my tax return and some money i have saved up to do all this... The only part my friends and i are not going to install are the gears. What do you think i will be running in the 1/4? How much HP will i be pushing? Is there anything else i can do as a bolt on?

Thanks.......

blue00gt · 02-09-2004, 03:01 PM

I would get an H-pipe or X-pipe instead of the headers - they will net you alot more gain for the same part cost and are infinitely easier to install.
Also, for the underdrives I would go with a set like Steeda's that include the bonded damper rather than a piggy-back style.
What track do you run at? That seems like an awfully good time and trap speed given the horrible 60-ft. time.

Bri's ride · 02-09-2004, 05:50 PM

If u go with the steeda tri ax you can choose the length, it has 2 settings. i guess it the long one feels like stock hight.

explicitone · 02-09-2004, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BUFFMUSTANG
Ok here are my very near future mods for my car, the green machine as everyone likes to call it....

1. JBA Cat-Foward Shorty Headers.
2. 4.10 Ford Racing Gears.
3. Pro 5.0 shifter. Where do i get the longer handle?
4. BBK U/D Pulleys.
5. C&L 80mm MAF System with TrueFlow Inlet Pipe.
6. Accufab 75mm TB.
7. C&L Intake Plenum.
8. Dyno W/Chip.

All i have right now is welded in 1 Chamber flows, my best run at the track was a 13.998 @ 101 W/ 2.279 60FT.. It's a 2001 GT..
I'm going to use my tax return and some money i have saved up to do all this... The only part my friends and i are not going to install are the gears. What do you think i will be running in the 1/4? How much HP will i be pushing? Is there anything else i can do as a bolt on?

Thanks.......

I would save the money you are putting towards the c&l and the chip and get gears
read the other thread 1000$ cause I dont feel like typing it all again

BUFFMUSTANG · 02-09-2004, 07:43 PM

I run at the Sacramento Drag strip

I am getting gears, 4.10s

xxxBlakexxx · 02-09-2004, 10:52 PM

Hey BuffMustang:

I ran 14.2 at 98 mph with a 60' of 2.1 when my car was nearly stock at about 1200 feet elevation.

I have not checked recently.

I would say you should be adding 40 - 70 hp to the rear wheels. Sorry for the big range, but it depends on who you believe.

Look at the left colum of this web site. At the bottom is a section called "Software". There are some really cool tools there that will estimate your times if you put in the data and your mods. Check it out. Be sure to use about 225 as rwhp for the stock car unless it asked for total. You will need to know your geering for all five gears. You can input the data before and after the 4.10's to see the improvement.

You should have a mid 13's car with no problem when done....maybe even low 13's. Anyone else agree?

Mercury · 02-10-2004, 01:50 AM

I'd say40 HP at the Flywheel gain with those mods sounds a little optimistic. (I think these manufactures of Bolt Ons test them on a planet that has twice the atmospheric pressure of earth. They get the "Stock" reading on earth, then the "Part" reading on Planet B. )

The Dyno with a chip burned can be elimanated. No need for that with those mods. Dont let shops with Dyno's try to sell you there expensive rates by promosing big returns. (My spelling sucks, this I know)

Save that money and put it away for suspension mods. Launching and hooking from a Drop can be the best way to improve ET's, and the best way to win the short street races...definetly easier than running them down on busy streets.

Defiently have to have a good H-pipe. And I agree about the pulleys, I'd go with Steeda, dont much care for the piggy backs anymore.

02-09-2004, 01:33 PM	#1
BUFFMUSTANG Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: California Posts: 4	Mods for the Green Machine... What do you think? Ok here are my very near future mods for my car, the green machine as everyone likes to call it.... 1. JBA Cat-Foward Shorty Headers. 2. 4.10 Ford Racing Gears. 3. Pro 5.0 shifter. Where do i get the longer handle? 4. BBK U/D Pulleys. 5. C&L 80mm MAF System with TrueFlow Inlet Pipe. 6. Accufab 75mm TB. 7. C&L Intake Plenum. 8. Dyno W/Chip. All i have right now is welded in 1 Chamber flows, my best run at the track was a 13.998 @ 101 W/ 2.279 60FT.. It's a 2001 GT.. I'm going to use my tax return and some money i have saved up to do all this... The only part my friends and i are not going to install are the gears. What do you think i will be running in the 1/4? How much HP will i be pushing? Is there anything else i can do as a bolt on? Thanks.......

02-09-2004, 03:01 PM	#2
blue00gt Mustang Addict Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: McKinney, TX Posts: 1,294	I would get an H-pipe or X-pipe instead of the headers - they will net you alot more gain for the same part cost and are infinitely easier to install. Also, for the underdrives I would go with a set like Steeda's that include the bonded damper rather than a piggy-back style. What track do you run at? That seems like an awfully good time and trap speed given the horrible 60-ft. time. __________________ Strike down the unroadworthy! 2000 GT Atl. Blue: '03 Cobra motor - 465rwhp/473rwtq, T-56 6-speed, full MM TA/PH & tubular K-member suspension, Saleen body, 17" Torq-Thrust II's, M/T ET Street radials, and lots more '94 Rio Red Cobra: All the bolt-ons, 3.73s

02-09-2004, 05:50 PM	#3
Bri's ride Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Tucson AZ Posts: 74	If u go with the steeda tri ax you can choose the length, it has 2 settings. i guess it the long one feels like stock hight. __________________ 97 GT--SOLD-- Magnaflow mufflers Mac Prochamber K&N FIPK Steeda Tri Ax Nitto 555 King cobra clutch 98 Sonoma 2.2 DD

02-09-2004, 10:52 PM	#6
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	Hey BuffMustang: I ran 14.2 at 98 mph with a 60' of 2.1 when my car was nearly stock at about 1200 feet elevation. I have not checked recently. I would say you should be adding 40 - 70 hp to the rear wheels. Sorry for the big range, but it depends on who you believe. Look at the left colum of this web site. At the bottom is a section called "Software". There are some really cool tools there that will estimate your times if you put in the data and your mods. Check it out. Be sure to use about 225 as rwhp for the stock car unless it asked for total. You will need to know your geering for all five gears. You can input the data before and after the 4.10's to see the improvement. You should have a mid 13's car with no problem when done....maybe even low 13's. Anyone else agree? __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

02-10-2004, 01:50 AM	#7
Mercury The Redneck James Bond Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 1,707	I'd say40 HP at the Flywheel gain with those mods sounds a little optimistic. (I think these manufactures of Bolt Ons test them on a planet that has twice the atmospheric pressure of earth. They get the "Stock" reading on earth, then the "Part" reading on Planet B. ) The Dyno with a chip burned can be elimanated. No need for that with those mods. Dont let shops with Dyno's try to sell you there expensive rates by promosing big returns. (My spelling sucks, this I know) Save that money and put it away for suspension mods. Launching and hooking from a Drop can be the best way to improve ET's, and the best way to win the short street races...definetly easier than running them down on busy streets. Defiently have to have a good H-pipe. And I agree about the pulleys, I'd go with Steeda, dont much care for the piggy backs anymore. __________________ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. Red Baron, 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. Stage 2 CNC heads with Large Valves, Comp Cams (270-274 dur .550 lift), Forged Crank, DRP pistons, Manly H-beams, Pro M 87 mm Mass Air, 24lb Inj, 75mm TB, Plenum Spacer ,Long Tube Headers, Homemade H-pipe, 2 chamber Flows, 4:10's, Steeda Tri-Ax, LKW 70/30's, Eibach Drag Springs, Steeda SubFrames, Battle Boxes, Rear Girdle, Adj uppers, Alunimum Drshft, Southside Lift Bars. Project Cars, 64 1/2 6cyl coupe, 1930 Model A Nostalgia Rod.

02-09-2004, 07:43 PM	#5
BUFFMUSTANG Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: California Posts: 4	I run at the Sacramento Drag strip I am getting gears, 4.10s

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