Stock 1/4 mile run times...

[JBeryleC]

What did yall run before all the mods to your stangs??
I've been told to expect mid 14's... true??

Another question...
I've been told that most tracks wont let convertibles run at all, safety reasons... true??

Also.. I just removed the rubber hose that comes off the airbox and runs into the wheel well... any idea what gains I get from that?? And whats that thing called? "air silencer"?

I totally noticed a difference in throttle responce and a little more go in the low rpm's.

Next I'm gonna throw a K&N in there (waiting on a responce to my post about the airfilter oil affecting the MAF)

I do not want to replace the airbox or the pipe, but I will wrap it in Steeda heat shield material

[GTvert]

Originally posted by JBeryleC
What did yall run before all the mods to your stangs??
I've been told to expect mid 14's... true??

Another question...
I've been told that most tracks wont let convertibles run at all, safety reasons... true??

Also.. I just removed the rubber hose that comes off the airbox and runs into the wheel well... any idea what gains I get from that?? And whats that thing called? "air silencer"?

I totally noticed a difference in throttle responce and a little more go in the low rpm's.

Next I'm gonna throw a K&N in there (waiting on a responce to my post about the airfilter oil affecting the MAF)

I do not want to replace the airbox or the pipe, but I will wrap it in Steeda heat shield material

I'll try to answer these in order.

1) I ran 14.0 to 14.1 in my vert when it was stock.
2) You have to have a rollcage in your convertible when start turning in faster times.Really depends on the track, but you will be ok for quite a while.I think they make them do it here when you are in the 11s or 12s.
3)The piece you removed IS the air silencer.Very little gain from it, but can't hurt anything.You will hear more intake air when you give it gas though.
4)I would recommend going with some sort of cold air induction.Most come with K&N and they will give you more hp.Only an improperly oiled K&N is able to affect the MAF.K&N had a lawsuit with ford over it.Ford replaced my MAF for free.
5)Just read that you are not wanting CAI, sorry.Get the filter.

[JBeryleC]

for one reason.. people dont understand that they spend all this money on the "cold air intake" that comes with a K&N airfilter..

well... it is NOT a cold air intake! it sucks air from under the hood, HOT air. The closest thing to cold air intake is just the stock system and wrapping it in heat shield and adding a K&N filter inside the stock box. However, removing the air silencer removes the cold air intake... lol

OR.. converting the hood scoop to FUNCTIONAL

My opinion

[GTvert]

Actually the air is from the fender, not from under the hood.
Another thing is that it makes the airflow smoother with less bends than the stock setup

[xxxBlakexxx]

My stock stang ran mid to low 14's using a g meter at about 97 mph. With current mods (less my chip as I have not checked with it and I sent it back for re-promming) 14.1 at 99 mph. Times will vary a lot depending on altitude and weather. My best 60 ft time has been 2.1, since then my tires needed to be replaced and I have not checked on new tires (weather has not been good).

The cold air/mass air question will go on longer than any of our cars will be around. Which is better? Who really knows? With cold air, the air must make a bend from the fenderwall. This HAS to result in some sort of decreased air flow. With "mass air" the air runs from under the hood, but runs straight in...no bends but warmer air. Which makes more horse power, I think is like splitting hairs.

In my opinion, running from under the hood is probably more consistent as it is not affected as much by ambient temps. I went this route.

Want cold air and a big bang, then run nitrous. Besides adding air, nitrous drops the temp of the intake air by a bunch. The lower temps are responsible for part of the gain. Hey for $550, you can get a great entry level, safe nitrous kit. Add 25 - 150 HP at the flywheel depending on which nozzle you use.

[JBeryleC]

Well I've looked at stangs that have the aftermarket intake pipe and cone filter... It has the same exact bends as the stock pipe... and it sucks in hot air from under the hood.

I still stand by this... just remove the air silencer, getting rid of the major bend in the whole system, then adding a K&N air filter inside the stock airbox.

The air entry point is still pointed AWAY from the exhaust manifold and towards the fender well.. the air there is slightly cooler.

wrap it all in heat shield and (in my opinion) you've got a better performing and cheaper intake piping system. You get the best of both.. cooler air & no bend into the fender well

I did all this and it made a noticeable difference.. I actually had to re-adjust my driving to not spin the tires from stops. Seriously. I am guessing atleast 8hp gain.

I dont even know what K&N says the gain should be... I'll look into it.

[91LX2Bfast]

I'm a fan of keeping stock airbox when you can. Use the money you save from not buying a cold air kit and put it towards other parts.
One note: Some people trim their silencer so it makes the hole bigger, but still draws air from the fender. But in doing that, you're getting rid of the venturi shape thats built into the silencer. My brother has run his '99 GT many times with and without the silencer and there was no difference in times between the two. So he runs the silencer to get full benefit of cold air.

[JBeryleC]

GREAT idea!!!

cut the silencer right before it starts it's big u-turn... that way you lose the bend and air restriction but it still sticks slightly into the fenderwell for the "cold air" aspect of the intake.

WOW.. learn something new everyday! I will be doing that tomorrow!

Thanks!

[explicitone]

ok where to start

#1 I ran a 14.1@99 stock

#2 at 13.99 you will need a 4 point roll bar at most tracks(not cage cages are not needed for awhile)

#3 just do a drop in k&N (cai are junk the bend in front of the maf causes problems) and get a densecharger maf t/b pipe cost 60$ shipped plus you dont need to heat wrap that or the stock cause they dont get hot its the metal ones that need to be wrap

#4 it has been dyno proven not to add anything but noise on the old 5.0s it did 87-93 cause of the small airbox in the fender

#5 and as I said in the other thread it will not harm it you will just need to clean it every few months with elec. contact cleaner

#6 heat wrapping the stock pipe is a waste of money

[JBeryleC]

Ok, I agree with all that except one thing...

After removing the air silencer there WAS a noticeable throttle responce change for the better & the tires spun easier from a stop!
No joke!

Next step is the K&N filter and the aftermarket PLASTIC pipe.
I will keep the stock airbox and MAF

[explicitone]

Originally posted by JBeryleC
Ok, I agree with all that except one thing...

After removing the air silencer there WAS a noticeable throttle responce change for the better & the tires spun easier from a stop!
No joke!

Next step is the K&N filter and the aftermarket PLASTIC pipe.
I will keep the stock airbox and MAF

it has been dynoed countless times and has shown no gains but if you at speed you might see a small gain
you have to remember the weather plays a big part in how a cars
one day it might run like a raped ape and others it seems to be sluggish and that because of temp,humid,altit.and barom. pressure

[JBeryleC]

Yes I know all about weather....

This mod was done and tested in a half an hour... there was a change for the better.

I dont know much about dyno testing... but maybe it doesnt do enough to change dyno readings, but I for sure noticed better responce.

Made me smile, thats all that matters

[explicitone]

im not saying it does not add a little power what i am saying is you need to be moving it add it that is why dyno testing a not shown a gain
maybe I did not explain myself very well
i am not the greatest at getting my point across on the net

[JBeryleC]

hahaha.. understandable! arent we all that way sometimes?

especially when trying to reply to many many posts over & over again.. haha

Thanks again man!

[explicitone]

Originally posted by JBeryleC
hahaha.. understandable! arent we all that way sometimes?

especially when trying to reply to many many posts over & over again.. haha

Thanks again man!

but I will tell you this the best setup I have found for my car at the track
is a densechrager maf-t/b pipe and a afm powerstack filter
and it is a open filter at the track I pull my pass. side headlight out

[JBeryleC]

Originally posted by explicitone
but I will tell you this the best setup I have found for my car at the track
is a densechrager maf-t/b pipe and a afm powerstack filter
and it is a open filter at the track I pull my pass. side headlight out

where can I find info about the pipe??
do they have a website?

thanks

and have you seen the functional hood scoop plumbing yet? its very cool stuff! now thats a REAL cai !!!

[explicitone]

Originally posted by JBeryleC
where can I find info about the pipe??
do they have a website?

thanks

and have you seen the functional hood scoop plumbing yet? its very cool stuff! now thats a REAL cai !!!

give me a min and I will find the web site for you

[explicitone]

here it is
www.densecharger.com
click on ordering
then at the top of the page click on the link that says here

it say if you already have a meter forward

[JBeryleC]

Ok I checked it out.. I like how it appears stock.

I hate the rice rocket looking chrome or polished ones I've seen.

this one is cool

How much bigger is the bore over the stock pipe?

[explicitone]

a lot
it is a 4in inlet