© Copyright 1995 thru 2008 - The Mustang Works™. All Rights Reserved.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
05-10-2002, 02:35 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 24
|
Crank bolt removal
Anyone have any tricks to getting the crack pulley to not turn while I'm trying to break the bolt lose? I looked at trying to jam a screwdriver in the starter ring gear, as suggested in the manuals, yeah right! I can barely see the starter let alone get my hand in there with a screwdriver. I've been thinking about getting a long piece of metal, drilling a few in it, and attaching it to the pulley so that it would hit the ground, and I could then break the bolt loose, sound reasonable? If anyone has a better idea please share it.
__________________
'97 GT Coupe-Laser Red MODS: Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda T/A, FRPP 3.73s, FRPP Alum. Driveshaft, Magnapack cat-back, MM C/C plates, Fox Lake PI heads, BBK LTs, waiting on brown truck with with my Comp Cams 197.3rwhp 272.8tq |
05-10-2002, 02:44 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 330
|
This is from Steeda's website FAQ section for instaling Pulleys
-----On automatic transmission cars, the engine must be held from turning by holding the torque converter. The torque converter can be accessed by removing a plug towards the front-drivers side of the transmission. (Consult a service manual for more information). Hold the torque converter from turning with a 14mm wrench.---- I believe on a manual you should be able to brace the wheels from turning and put the car in a high gear like 4 or 5 and that should keep enough back pressure on the flywheel to not allow the crank to turn... I don't deal with manuals much, so, if it doesn't work or breaks something, don't get mad at me...
__________________
// 1998 GT-Steeda Conversion \\ -- Sold // Now own 2001 F-150 SuperCrew 5.4L \\ |
05-12-2002, 11:26 AM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 24
|
Putting it in 5th was the ticket, thanks for the info
__________________
'97 GT Coupe-Laser Red MODS: Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda T/A, FRPP 3.73s, FRPP Alum. Driveshaft, Magnapack cat-back, MM C/C plates, Fox Lake PI heads, BBK LTs, waiting on brown truck with with my Comp Cams 197.3rwhp 272.8tq |
05-14-2002, 07:16 PM | #4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: allentown,pa,u.s.
Posts: 780
|
Just to make sure, don't re-use that crank bolt. It is a torque to yield bolt and needs to be chucked. It will loosen over time if you try to use it again. I think your new pulleys will come with a new bolt though. If not, go to Ford and buy a new one.
__________________
formerly 96cobra89lx306 (96Cobra/softtop- Black&Tan, 3.73,almdrvsht,fancontrl,steeda sbfrmes,r-LCA's&shifter,eibachspgs,KYB's,FR-upper arms,Y2K Cobra R's,pulleys,Bassani X pipe(cats gutted),C&L 80mm,Stage 2 Clutch, polished intake and cam covers etc.. last dyno w/cats on-287rwhp. 93 Ford Probe Gt 4.39 stock gears and K&N (slower but turns) 2001 Green Ninja ZX6R |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Problem, Bolt Removal | KrivoK | Classic Mustangs | 2 | 12-19-2003 07:26 AM |
How to remove crank bolt up front? | Beanhead | Windsor Power | 11 | 09-30-2003 10:40 AM |
650HP stock block | ultraflo | Windsor Power | 73 | 11-07-2002 11:35 AM |
how do I break loose the crank pulley bolt? | tomazzzo | Windsor Power | 4 | 05-05-2002 01:14 AM |
crank bolt | matt cook | Windsor Power | 7 | 12-05-2001 05:31 PM |