$1000

[acidskie]

Lets say you have a 02 GT.
Lets say it has a Mac Cat-back already on it.
Lets say it has a K&N filter.

Now lets say you have a grand to put into a car that remains very stock.

Your looking for some more HP/Speed gains.

What would you do next and why?
Just wondering. Income tax time ya know.

[Bri's ride]

Gears are probably the best bang for the buck but no hp gains, i plan on getting 3.73, my stock ones are 2.73. Since yours is an 02 it has 3.23so u might not see as big a difference. A mid pipe and headers will probably get good gains and it'll sound better too. and if u get mac stuff it's reletively cheap too, hope i could help

[explicitone]

Originally posted by acidskie
Lets say you have a 02 GT.
Lets say it has a Mac Cat-back already on it.
Lets say it has a K&N filter.

Now lets say you have a grand to put into a car that remains very stock.

Your looking for some more HP/Speed gains.

What would you do next and why?
Just wondering. Income tax time ya know.

this is what I would do
4.10 gears
steeda u/d pullies
steeda t/a
c&L plenum

[xxxBlakexxx]

This is what I would do:

C&L Plenum: $200
C&L Mass Air Kit: $300
70mm or 75mm Throttle Body: $200
Performance Chip (Diablo or similar): $225
Upgraded Shifter (like Steeda Tri-Ax): $175

Ok, that's just over a $1000, but close. If you have a 5 speed, the shifter upgrade is awesome...doesn't add HP, but you will love it. I would also consider gears as the above post mentioned, but you will spend about half of your $1000 if you need to pay to have them installed. The geers run about $150 to $200 plus installation AND you need to pay another $100+ or so to re-calibrate your speedometer.

The prices I listed are estimates, but should be close. How much hp gain depends on who you believe, but it will be a bunch.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
This is what I would do:

C&L Plenum: $200
C&L Mass Air Kit: $300
70mm or 75mm Throttle Body: $200
Performance Chip (Diablo or similar): $225
Upgraded Shifter (like Steeda Tri-Ax):

a chip is the last mod that should be done on any car

mass air meters on a stock cars is a waste. the stock maf flows enough air to make 350 rwhp on a n/a car the only way these parts make power is by tricking the computer causing it to run lean the same can be had by a chip and a chip is the better way to go due to you can control how much it leans it out.

the only way I would go with a aftermarket maf is if I had the 5.0 stocker and p&p heads and cams (which is in the works) and it would never be a C&L it would only be a pro-m

gears cost 139 plus (5-speed)speed cal 89 plus install 200 total of
428
C&L plenum 189
steeda pullies 153
steeda t/a 125 all 3 www. crmotorsports.com

grand total of 895
which would still leace enough for a short throw shifter well if you add 75$

all in all you will gain about 16 rwhp and 20rwtq not bs infated numbers plus gears will put you in your power faster
if you into drag racing at all you will
drop .5-.6 in the 1/4 and pick up about 3mph

how do I know this I have these mods

[xxxBlakexxx]

Your comments about the chip are true and not true. A chip should be the last thing that you do, but most people take years to modify a car. For basic bolt on mods, a chip to advance timing is perfect and you will get decent hp gains. There is absolutely no reason to wait for a chip unless you are planning bigger things in the near future.

My diablo chip can be upgraded for under $100 whenever I want with a custom program. That way the chip can grow with you if you venture into major things.

I sort of assumed by the original post that he was looking to do a few mods for under a $1000 and that would be it for a while.

Also, I never said to change the MAF, I suggested an "MAF Kit" from C&L. This kit uses the stock MAF meter electronics. It is their version of "Cold Air" Induction and includes the tried and true K&N filter, enlarged plumbing, and shield. My mention of MAF was probably missleading and I should have just said "Cold Air Kit" in general. I personally think that C&L makes one of the better ones.

I did not mention pullies, because they void warrenties. I assumed that with a 2002 he wanted to keep his factory warrenty.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
Your comments about the chip are true and not true. A chip should be the last thing that you do, but most people take years to modify a car. For basic bolt on mods, a chip to advance timing is perfect and you will get decent hp gains. There is absolutely no reason to wait for a chip unless you are planning bigger things in the near future.

My diablo chip can be upgraded for under $100 whenever I want with a custom program. That way the chip can grow with you if you venture into major things.

I sort of assumed by the original post that he was looking to do a few mods for under a $1000 and that would be it for a while.

Also, I never said to change the MAF, I suggested an "MAF Kit" from C&L. This kit uses the stock MAF meter electronics. It is their version of "Cold Air" Induction and includes the tried and true K&N filter, enlarged plumbing, and shield. My mention of MAF was probably missleading and I should have just said "Cold Air Kit" in general. I personally think that C&L makes one of the better ones.

I did not mention pullies, because they void warrenties. I assumed that with a 2002 he wanted to keep his factory warrenty.

I I too was talking about the crap C&L people that have put that on yes have made power but also have seen ait fuel ratios in the 14-1 and higher range that is to lean

if you look at the fastest mod motor n/a racers most do not have a maf(or the c&L) they have the stock one

pullies do not void the warrenty any fastest then a chip if there is ever a problem with the motor they will check the ecu and yes even if you take the chip out they can tell it has had one in there

UNDER LAW THEY CAN NOT VOID A WARRENTY UNLESS THE PART PROVES TO BE THE ONE CAUSES THE PROBLEM yes they will try but it is againest the law and yes you would win


and pullies would take about 20min to take off and they could never tell they were there

he already has a k&n there is no need at his level to get a bigger one the factory replacment k&N flow more the enough air to support over 300hp


I agree about the chip but the only way to reburn a chip properly is on a dyno having it dyno tuned otherwise you will never know if its running to lean and if you really made power of lost it and yes you can lose power from a chip

[95mustanggt]

GEARS.

No matter what you do, you should go with 3.73's or 4.10's.

[acidskie]

Wow.
Thanks guys. Some very good... I mean GREAT information here to get me started. I don't want to void my warranty since I paid an extra 1300 or so for the 5year/75000mile ext. warranty. And I know Ford has to prove the part caused the issue, but I'd rather it just be a no brainer. Also I will have to pay for install out of the $grand I listed. I am somewhat flexible. I have more I can put in to it. But I'm in no huge rush either. I'm coming off a 4cyl 2.0 Plymouth Laser non turbo. So My stang has lot of power and torqe to me. Also I am never going to have this car at the tracks and If I do its going to be just for fun. I am into corners and turns more than the straight line. I like the mtns in my area too much My car is a daily driver too. So I am still a little worried about doing the gears simply do to the 62 Interstate miles I put on it going to and from work each day. So with those things in mind.... continue on You guys are such a huge help. Really!!!!!

PS. how much diff on gas mileage are say 3.75's going to make? How many more RMP's will I run at say 65mph? I run 1500 right now at 65.

[xxxBlakexxx]

Acidskie:

You will ultimately do what works for. What you are comfortable with and what you are willing to spend. But, you will most likely find that as you start making mods, it's hard to stop...it gets addictive...it's fun.

If you did not want to mess with the motor or gears just yet, I would encourage you to install a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. It is my favorite upgrade on my car! and I bet that there will be others that will agree. It will make driving more fun....the difference is striking.

Hey, you can always drop the extra $ on some rims if it's buring a whole in your pocket. I personally think that a nice set of after-market rims can transform a car.

[Bri's ride]

Your comments about the chip are true and not true. A chip should be the last thing that you do, but most people take years to modify a car. For basic bolt on mods, a chip to advance timing is perfect and you will get decent hp gains. There is absolutely no reason to wait for a chip unless you are planning bigger things in the near future.

Has anybody tried the hypertech chip, i guess u can plug that in everytime you do a mod. I don't know how well it works, but i was thinking about getting one.

[xxxBlakexxx]

Bri, "No" I have no experience with that chip. However, chips are becomming more and more versatile. Hyper Tech, Super Chips, and Diablo all have programmers that you can plug in and in as little as 3 minutes you can re-program your car. This allows you to make as many changes as you like.

Don't like your rev limiter, "Bam" you can change it. Your daughter is going to be driving your car "Bam" you can put a speed limiter on it. The chip companies are now getting to the point where you can go to a web site and download custom programing data for you based on inputed data that you get from a dyno.

These things are really cool. They also cost around $400 (I have no idea what the Hyper Tech costs though), which is more than a standard chip.

When I put in my $225 Diablo, it was a real pain in the rear. The ECU sucks to get at and it is very time consuming to clean the terminals. There were moments that I regretted that I did not buy the $360 programable one.

While I am far from a chip expert, it seems that these chips (programable) are ideal for the guy who has a light to a moderately modified car and is planning on more changes. Whenever I read about a fire breathing racer, they seem to use other brands.

Anyway, hope someone can respond about the Hyper Chip. I am curious about that one.

[explicitone]

Originally posted by acidskie
Wow.
Thanks guys. Some very good... I mean GREAT information here to get me started. I don't want to void my warranty since I paid an extra 1300 or so for the 5year/75000mile ext. warranty. And I know Ford has to prove the part caused the issue, but I'd rather it just be a no brainer. Also I will have to pay for install out of the $grand I listed. I am somewhat flexible. I have more I can put in to it. But I'm in no huge rush either. I'm coming off a 4cyl 2.0 Plymouth Laser non turbo. So My stang has lot of power and torqe to me. Also I am never going to have this car at the tracks and If I do its going to be just for fun. I am into corners and turns more than the straight line. I like the mtns in my area too much My car is a daily driver too. So I am still a little worried about doing the gears simply do to the 62 Interstate miles I put on it going to and from work each day. So with those things in mind.... continue on You guys are such a huge help. Really!!!!!

PS. how much diff on gas mileage are say 3.75's going to make? How many more RMP's will I run at say 65mph? I run 1500 right now at 65.

I agree with blake get one of 2 short throw shifters steeda tri ax or the pro 5.0 I have the b&m and it sucks

as for gears I would not go with 3.73 it would not be worth the money IMO
I have 4.10s I get 24 mpg on the hwy and I went from 17 to 20 mpg city due to being able to use 5th at 35 (I dont drive like an ***** on the street very often)

[Bri's ride]

Yeah about the hypertech programer does anybody know if u can use that so u can tune for a blower, i'm thinking about getting a kenne bell down the road and was thinkin about getting the hypertech. I think they run around 300$