shifters

[FiveOGirl]

can someone explain to me basically what an after market shifter does? everyone says it should be one of the first mods but why? what does it do that what I have stock doesnt? im looking at Steeda Tri-Ax shifter is that a good one? should i also get Steeda clutch quadrant kit (quadrant, firewall adjuster, and adjustable cable)?

[98SNAKE]

What an aftermarket shifter does is it shortens the gear too gear selection and it also has positive stops that you adjust so you don't over shift and put stress on the shift forks. Steeda makes a good shifter i've been told, I have a B&M Ripper and it does a good job.

Will

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98Cobra-3.73,Offroad
Xpipe,Flowmasters,Mac Cold air,SteedaTiming Adjuster16deg,Autometer Shiftlight,NittoDragRadials,Star Stage 2 Clutch,
60ft-2.013 1/8-8.488 mph-85.170 1/4-13.123 mph-106.148

[91LX2Bfast]

...in addition to that, it also improves the infamous 2-3 missed shift. Not sure if you are into racing much, but when shifting very fast from 2-3 with the stock piece, it is very easy to miss that shift.

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6L: Dynomax cat-back, MN-12 perf. offroad downtubes and Y-pipe w/ Magnaflow resonator, 80mm MAF with cone filter, B&M trans cooler, Inject-Tech chip, MAC U/D pulleys, KVR front brake upgrade. 15.2 @ 91 before exhaust & pulleys. Not bad for a 3800lb auto 4.6L

No Longer own: 91 LX 5.0L 5 spd

[Red Mustang Gt 46]

Steeda or B&M, both great quality and engineering. Try one on someone elses car before you buy one and install, you may not like the "clicky" feel to it or the slight extra effort. As far as the fire wall adjuster etc., I would'nt suggest it unless you have problems with clutch engagement or an aftermarket race set up, along with the shifter- it will give you a different feel.

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1998 Mustang Gt
C&L 80mm
Steeda Underdrives
Steeda Tri-Ax
Magnaflows

[SMOKE]

Good points all around.

Either aftermarket shifter improves the feel with a shorter throw.

[quackenbush]

wait a minute. someone said there is going to be extra effort to shift gears even though it is a shorter throw when getting a steeda tri-ax shifter? I thought the shifting would be easier.

[blue00gt]

The shift throw is shorter mainly because of a shorter lever arm, so that is why it requires more effort.

[Mercury]

Yes, according to the laws of physics, the shorter the lever the more energy needed to be used to move it the same distance.

But its not noticable at all. I havent increased the size of my forearms from shifting gears any.

Now thats an idea for us car nuts to get some exercise. Body By Jack Short throw shifters with a 300 lb offset spring, Now that would be a good work out for your arms.

[DOMIN8R97]

Yes, what BlueGt is saying is that it will be easier in a sense that you will not miss shifts and it won't be sloppy like the stocker, but will require more mechanical force from your arm because it is shorter lever than the stock long throw shifter.

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Red '97 Mustang GT
Auto
Bone Stock!
(Except for silencer)

[1BAD89]

I've had the B&M Ripper, and a PRO 5.0. And the PRO 5.0 is the best of the best, it's so much better built.

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-1989 GT, not stock.

-2000 Camaro SS-A4,
13.4's bone stock.

-1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), tubbed, trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

[quackenbush]

What you guys say ablout the shorter lever arm makes sense, but if I am not into hardcore racing or quickly changing gears than the stock shifter is probably fine and not the worth the money and extra effort.

[Red Mustang Gt 46]

Q/bush, the effort is minimal over stock and there will be a day when you get the notion to do some "power" shifting...you pull next to some ricemobile and the guy looks at you and laughs...you proceed to whomp on him during 1st gear, bam! 2nd gear, GGRRRIIIINDDD!!! 3rd gear...you've lost the race...and to top it off, you've bent the shift forks = costly repairs.
The aftermarket shifter makes a world of difference even if your just "driving Miss Daisey", try one. An aftermarket shifter prevents the above scenario. www.steeda.com
go to tech section for more information on the Tri-ax, it says it all.

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1998 Mustang Gt
C&L 80mm
Steeda Underdrives
Steeda Tri-Ax
Magnaflows



[This message has been edited by Red Mustang Gt 46 (edited 10-26-2001).]

Just several comments here

First off, I would disagree that its not worth the money to replace a shifter just because your not racing. The stock shifter does not have any positive stops and can quite easily stress the shift forks inside the transmission. It really doesn't take much effort or time to bend these to the point where the tranny becomes noticably more difficult to shift reliably. Get one, there only $150-$200 and takes less than an afternoon to install. As mentioned before, the increased shift effort isn't really noticable, but the improved shift feel definately is!

Regarding the improved shift quadrant and firewall pieces. I recommend them. One of the biggest gripes I have on the mustang (besides the brakes) is their sloppy clutch/shift mechanisms. The quadrant is plastic! The self adjusting mechanism is ok for your Grandmother's car, but not for a sports car. I like the Steeda pieces because it gives you so many places to adjust the clutch play (tranny, clutch quadrant or firewall) Unfortunately, there is nothing that stiffens the firewall. Before you make your decision one way or another, try this test. Place a straight edge along the firewall next to the clutch cable grommit. Have someone sit in the car and actuate the clutch several times. If you see the firewall pull away from the straight edge, youve got a problem. This motion will contribute to that imprecise feeling you get when you release the clutch in a stock Mustang. My '91 GT had almost 1/16" flex and my '98 Cobra has just a little under 1/16". When you translate that to the clutch pedal, it makes you hunt for the initial friction point and changes the lockup characteristics of the pressure plate/clutch mechanism. To my knowledge, Kenny Brown is the only one that offers the firewall stiffeners, but any good machine/body shop can manufacture some stiffeners and attach them to your firewall.

[91LX2Bfast]

I highly recogmend the Kirban shifter for a street driven Stang. It bridges the gap between street and strip shifter perfectly. Very short positive shifts, but not as "notchy" as the Pro 5.0. Can't comment on Steeda, but here its a great street shifter also.
If you see the track as often as a few times a year, I think the Pro 5.0 is the only way to go then.

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6L: Dynomax cat-back, MN-12 perf. offroad downtubes and Y-pipe w/ Magnaflow resonator, 80mm MAF with cone filter, B&M trans cooler, Inject-Tech chip, MAC U/D pulleys, KVR front brake upgrade, SVO 70mm TB. 15.2 @ 91 w/ just chip and MAF. 14's next time to the track.

No Longer own: 91 LX 5.0L 5 spd