Education

Phly6 · 10-07-2003, 11:26 AM

Some of you may remember me from my "Top Speed" post. Well, ive gotten tired of the triple digits on the spedometer and decided to head to the track. Practice is on thursday nights here so im hoping to get my 1/4 mile time the day after tommorow. I do have one concern however, that i hope i can have answered before i go: Everyone at work tells me i dont know how to shift yet. Granted, my first 5 speed was this car which i bought two or three weeks ago, but i still want to know what they are talking about. I can shift smooth, double clutch when i race, and i downshift to stop so i think i can handle the gears pretty well. My boss who has a pontiac grand prix gtp spends a little time at the track says that i can run about a 13.9 IF i can shift. What does he mean by it? any HELPFUL input would be appreciated. Thanks.

gilmoujr · 10-07-2003, 12:03 PM

Glad to hear you will be spending a little time at the track. What he is talking about is the time it takes you to go from point A to point B (the distane between each gear and also the factor of holding the clutch in too long or short - grinding). It is nothing that you will cure until you have a little time behind the car - specifically the shifter and the clutch, and experience racing. It is not something that can be easily learned without much time behind a manual tranny and it varies by the setup of the car (even two identical cars off the showroom floor may be a slight different causing you to have to get accustomed to the setup). You will get better, I promise, but do not get your hopes up on running 13's until you learn how to shift (and when to shift - at 1 RPM before Red-Line thru 3rd and about 250 short of Red-Line into 4th - if you even think about hitting 5th then you are wrong).

By the way, although nobody on this board endorses your speed on the highway, we all do it (or have done it before). The reason behind your public shaming was due to the fact that there was a guy on this board a while back that did something wrong that cost him his job (and I think a lot of money) in the process. He posted his victory on this site and got a few "high-fives" at first from a few folks until the repliers realized what a mess it would have been had he done the deed to them. You will not receive praise on this board for doing something that is against the law. It is not because we hate you or your actions, just making sure that we, as a community that cares about its members, ensure that another member - or their precious metal - does not get hurt in the process or does damage to another. The last thing we want is for someone's spouse or parent to post to the group that someone was injurred or killed due to us encouraging inappropriate behavior. The track is the place for high speed and racing. They have trained personnel on site that will be available if things happen (because things do happen). I personally wish you the best of luck in your endeavors as a racer. Another word of advice... check the track website or call them first to see if you need a parental permission form filled out. Most tracks are starting to move in that direction so that they can be clear of any negligence if something happens. You may get out to the track only to get turned back for not having the proper signature.

Jim

Phly6 · 10-07-2003, 01:00 PM

Thanks Jim, best advice ive gotten yet.
One other thing, when i shift, should i double clutch? ( By double clutch I mean tap the gas inbetween gears to keep the revs up )

GodStang · 10-07-2003, 01:07 PM

Most people here call it power shifting (not meant to be mean). I think first couple of runs you should shift normal and then after that if you feel confident then Power shift. You miss a gear power shifting and it could be bye bye engine. Most likly not but until you feel real good about it I would stay with normal. Hope this helps.

gilmoujr · 10-07-2003, 01:18 PM

Double-Clutching only serves to waste time, in my opinion. You also must be more coodinated because it requires your concentration on the gas pedal rather than making a speedy shift into the next gear. What I do is just barely let off the gas to bring the revs down to about 5500 (slightly less if the shift is fast enough - the tach will not automatically come way down because of your flywheel being so heavy and that the gas is not just "cut off"). By just barely letting off it prevents you from hitting the rev limiter (which prevents damage to the engine due to over-revving it). This gives you a smooth shift and you have less work left to engage the gas pedal once again. Over time you can learn how to shift this way. I know some people will argue that you should just go ahead and bounce off the rev limiter, but it is my preference to just slightly let off the gas and shift fast. Here are my times for proof that this method can work for you.

This was my last recorded 1/4 mile times (recorded on September 25th 2003 in Xenia, Ohio)

1.841 60ft
5.539 330ft
8.623 1/8 mile
80.52 1/8 MPH
13.519 1/4 mile
100.65 1/4 MPH

With my mods, I am pushing about 300-305 bhp.

Phly6 · 10-07-2003, 11:32 PM

What mods do you have Gil? Im looking into what i can get for mine without voiding the warranty. So far I pretty much am allowed a new flomaster exaust and a K and N air filter. Im not positive what my hp will be after this, but im pretty sure itll put me over 300. Also, im debating weather or not to get it done by Ford. They gave me a price of 525 for the flowmasters installed and 90 for the k and n. Everyone tells me i can get it cheaper somewhere else, but I DO NOT want to void my warranty under any cercumstances. Thats the reason im leaving the speed limiter in. Also, if anyone knows of any other mods i can put on ( excluding for the body) please let me know. Accel. or hp, anything is appreciated. Thanks.

gilmoujr · 10-08-2003, 09:48 AM

I have not done much but what I have doen has been effective and did not cost a bunch.

3.73 Gears
C&L 85 mm Mass Air Kit
Steeda Tri-Ax shifter
Magnaflow Weld-Ins
Mac Prochamber
DiabloSport Delta Chip

xxxBlakexxx · 10-08-2003, 05:18 PM

Phily6:

You will hear a great deal of debate about which mods to do and what voids warrenties...especially since Ford can't really agree. Some people think that if you stick with Ford Racing items, you will help to not void the warrenty.

Here is my advice: stick with things that help air go in and air go out. No chips, pulleys or injectors if you are concerned about warrenties. If I were you, I would look into the new C&L Plenum ($200) and a larger 75 mm Throttle Body from BBK ($200). These two items can be added in an hour and removed quickly if needed (like before it goes into the shop). Most people tell me that these items will not void warrenty so long as they did not cause a failure. For example, if you put in a new TB and a month down the road your Throttle Position Sensor brakes they will probably blame you.

Those two items will add 25% air to your car and increase you HP to the wheels by 20. Then add the C&L Tru Flo Pipe and Cold Air Kit (About $400 for both) for another 15 - 20 to the rear whells. Thats 35 - 40 in all without any warrenty issues and you can do it yourself. I will even offer to help you over the phone.

Again, there will be other opions out there on this subject and they will all have their merrits. You can find what is best for you and what fits your budget.

GTvert · 10-10-2003, 03:11 PM

Good Luck at the track phly6, just don't get your heart set on 13's.Mid 14's is a more realistic goal.I ran 14.1 my first run in my convertible, and I have been racing for a while.I have since dropped that time to 13.3 with the mods I have.I just got the nitrous, so I'll let you know how that turns out.It all depends on your local dealer what you can and cannot do under warranty.Make friends with your service manager and hit him up to install the parts and warranty it.

I have the following mods on a 2001 GT:

BBK off-road x-pipe
Steeda Underdrives
Pro 5.0 Shifter (Highly Recommend)
4:10 gears
2 1/2 inch exhaust with magnaflows
Hypertech Power Programmer
C&L Cold air induction

NX adjustable to 75-150 (not installed yet)

Phly6 · 10-12-2003, 03:54 PM

Wish i had read gtvert's post before i went to the track. First run i got a 16.2 because i missed 2nd Oops! 2nd run i got a 15.5 making sure i hit every gear this time. I was pretty dissapointed at the end of the night though after only getting 2 runs in and bombing them bouth. I do have a question about my shifter though. It's very hard to get through the gears sometimes. I feel like im hitting bumps (gears or synchros i suppose) There is no grinding so i didint feel the need to bring the car back to the dealership before my one month check up. Does anyone think there is something wrong or the car is just getting broken in still. There are 1300 miles on the car at this moment. i am mostly having a problem with 2nd. Usually 1st to 2nd while racing. Any thoughts anyone?

Hammer · 10-12-2003, 09:02 PM

Get an after-market shifter if you don't already have one...
(Pro 5.0 or Tri-Ax)

Nothing can replace experience at the track. If you're serious, you'll practice your shifting and tree skills at the track. Then you'll see your 1/4 mile time decrease.

As far as warranty goes it depends on the dealer.
I've had some dealers not touch a thing because of an after-market exhaust, while some are quite mod-friendly.

Legally, the warranty should stay in effect unless the damage can be proven that it was linked to the modifications. In the real world, well... How much money and time do you feel like investing in a lawyer?

Phly6 · 10-12-2003, 10:18 PM

whats the pro 5.0 shifter do thats diffrent from mine? is it a closer ratio or a shorter throw? also, if you have any idea off the top of your head, how much would one cost to purchase and have installed?

Hammer · 10-12-2003, 10:49 PM

For details on the Tri-Ax:
Go to www.steeda.com
Select "Mustang" on the left, select "drivetrain", scroll down and click on "Tri-Ax for TR3650"

Here's the price over at www.dallasmustang.com :
http://www.dallasmustang.com/index.m...train_Shifters

xxxBlakexxx · 10-13-2003, 09:46 AM

Here is an excellent write up on the Pro 5.0 shift as well as how to do the install.

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/shift1.htm

Also, Mustangworld.com has many other articles that you may find interesting. Just discovered this site today thanks to a replay that I got from another thread.

daveGT · 10-13-2003, 12:16 PM

My favorite mod ever is my Steeda Tri-ax shifter. No, I mean NO, comparison to the stock shifter!! Now I don't understand why I waited so long. You'll never miss a shift. Damn car practically shifts itself....CLICK, down into second, CLICK up to third... and so on.

Awsome piece of equipment. Stock shifter feels like a stick in a box of rocks by comparison. Money well spent.

xxxBlakexxx · 10-13-2003, 12:38 PM

DaveGT:

I still have the stock shifter but am looking to upgrade. How long did it take for you to install yours? or did you have the work done for you? Is so, what did they charge?

The leading canidates for shifters seem to be the Steedia and Pro 5 and one from Kirban. They are all in the same price range.

Thanks!

The Deuce · 10-13-2003, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by xxxBlakexxx
DaveGT:

I still have the stock shifter but am looking to upgrade. How long did it take for you to install yours? or did you have the work done for you? Is so, what did they charge?

The leading canidates for shifters seem to be the Steedia and Pro 5 and one from Kirban. They are all in the same price range.

Thanks!

I did my install in the dark (only light was dome light) in less than 45 minutes. Its really that easy.

I reccomend everyone doing it themselves, because you should start getting over the fear of turning your own wrenches.

daveGT · 10-14-2003, 12:55 PM

xxxBlakexxx:

As Deuce mentioned, it's pretty simple. If you can follow instructions you'll have no problems.

Mine took a little longer because I have to multiply the expected completion by the "David Factor" for every job.

The hardest part is removing and replacing all of the trim and stuff without breaking it, for I'm a notorious "overtightener" and I like to use crowbars.

xxxBlakexxx · 10-14-2003, 08:32 PM

OK. I am convinced. I am going with the Steedia Tri-Ax shifter. Mustang Tuning sells them new for $149.00 rght now on-sale. Sounded good to me! Can't wait. I love this S__t!

Snakeman · 10-17-2003, 12:49 PM

hey, about your top speed attempts...
try 4th gear to redline; that's the best yer gonna do with limited HP, no way are you gonna pull overdrive to any records...

10-07-2003, 11:26 AM	#1
Phly6 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 43	Education Some of you may remember me from my "Top Speed" post. Well, ive gotten tired of the triple digits on the spedometer and decided to head to the track. Practice is on thursday nights here so im hoping to get my 1/4 mile time the day after tommorow. I do have one concern however, that i hope i can have answered before i go: Everyone at work tells me i dont know how to shift yet. Granted, my first 5 speed was this car which i bought two or three weeks ago, but i still want to know what they are talking about. I can shift smooth, double clutch when i race, and i downshift to stop so i think i can handle the gears pretty well. My boss who has a pontiac grand prix gtp spends a little time at the track says that i can run about a 13.9 IF i can shift. What does he mean by it? any HELPFUL input would be appreciated. Thanks.

10-07-2003, 12:03 PM	#2
gilmoujr Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Dexter City, Ohio Posts: 60	Glad to hear - at track Glad to hear you will be spending a little time at the track. What he is talking about is the time it takes you to go from point A to point B (the distane between each gear and also the factor of holding the clutch in too long or short - grinding). It is nothing that you will cure until you have a little time behind the car - specifically the shifter and the clutch, and experience racing. It is not something that can be easily learned without much time behind a manual tranny and it varies by the setup of the car (even two identical cars off the showroom floor may be a slight different causing you to have to get accustomed to the setup). You will get better, I promise, but do not get your hopes up on running 13's until you learn how to shift (and when to shift - at 1 RPM before Red-Line thru 3rd and about 250 short of Red-Line into 4th - if you even think about hitting 5th then you are wrong). By the way, although nobody on this board endorses your speed on the highway, we all do it (or have done it before). The reason behind your public shaming was due to the fact that there was a guy on this board a while back that did something wrong that cost him his job (and I think a lot of money) in the process. He posted his victory on this site and got a few "high-fives" at first from a few folks until the repliers realized what a mess it would have been had he done the deed to them. You will not receive praise on this board for doing something that is against the law. It is not because we hate you or your actions, just making sure that we, as a community that cares about its members, ensure that another member - or their precious metal - does not get hurt in the process or does damage to another. The last thing we want is for someone's spouse or parent to post to the group that someone was injurred or killed due to us encouraging inappropriate behavior. The track is the place for high speed and racing. They have trained personnel on site that will be available if things happen (because things do happen). I personally wish you the best of luck in your endeavors as a racer. Another word of advice... check the track website or call them first to see if you need a parental permission form filled out. Most tracks are starting to move in that direction so that they can be clear of any negligence if something happens. You may get out to the track only to get turned back for not having the proper signature. Jim

10-07-2003, 01:07 PM	#4
GodStang College Stanger Join Date: May 1999 Location: Aiken,south carolina, usa Posts: 1,097	Most people here call it power shifting (not meant to be mean). I think first couple of runs you should shift normal and then after that if you feel confident then Power shift. You miss a gear power shifting and it could be bye bye engine. Most likly not but until you feel real good about it I would stay with normal. Hope this helps. __________________ 2003 Sonic Blue Cobra

10-07-2003, 01:18 PM	#5
gilmoujr Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Dexter City, Ohio Posts: 60	Shifting Double-Clutching only serves to waste time, in my opinion. You also must be more coodinated because it requires your concentration on the gas pedal rather than making a speedy shift into the next gear. What I do is just barely let off the gas to bring the revs down to about 5500 (slightly less if the shift is fast enough - the tach will not automatically come way down because of your flywheel being so heavy and that the gas is not just "cut off"). By just barely letting off it prevents you from hitting the rev limiter (which prevents damage to the engine due to over-revving it). This gives you a smooth shift and you have less work left to engage the gas pedal once again. Over time you can learn how to shift this way. I know some people will argue that you should just go ahead and bounce off the rev limiter, but it is my preference to just slightly let off the gas and shift fast. Here are my times for proof that this method can work for you. This was my last recorded 1/4 mile times (recorded on September 25th 2003 in Xenia, Ohio) 1.841 60ft 5.539 330ft 8.623 1/8 mile 80.52 1/8 MPH 13.519 1/4 mile 100.65 1/4 MPH With my mods, I am pushing about 300-305 bhp.

10-08-2003, 09:48 AM	#7
gilmoujr Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Dexter City, Ohio Posts: 60	My Mods I have not done much but what I have doen has been effective and did not cost a bunch. 3.73 Gears C&L 85 mm Mass Air Kit Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Magnaflow Weld-Ins Mac Prochamber DiabloSport Delta Chip

10-07-2003, 01:00 PM	#3
Phly6 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 43	Thanks Jim, best advice ive gotten yet. One other thing, when i shift, should i double clutch? ( By double clutch I mean tap the gas inbetween gears to keep the revs up )

10-07-2003, 11:32 PM	#6
Phly6 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 43	What mods do you have Gil? Im looking into what i can get for mine without voiding the warranty. So far I pretty much am allowed a new flomaster exaust and a K and N air filter. Im not positive what my hp will be after this, but im pretty sure itll put me over 300. Also, im debating weather or not to get it done by Ford. They gave me a price of 525 for the flowmasters installed and 90 for the k and n. Everyone tells me i can get it cheaper somewhere else, but I DO NOT want to void my warranty under any cercumstances. Thats the reason im leaving the speed limiter in. Also, if anyone knows of any other mods i can put on ( excluding for the body) please let me know. Accel. or hp, anything is appreciated. Thanks.

10-08-2003, 05:18 PM	#8
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	Phily6: You will hear a great deal of debate about which mods to do and what voids warrenties...especially since Ford can't really agree. Some people think that if you stick with Ford Racing items, you will help to not void the warrenty. Here is my advice: stick with things that help air go in and air go out. No chips, pulleys or injectors if you are concerned about warrenties. If I were you, I would look into the new C&L Plenum ($200) and a larger 75 mm Throttle Body from BBK ($200). These two items can be added in an hour and removed quickly if needed (like before it goes into the shop). Most people tell me that these items will not void warrenty so long as they did not cause a failure. For example, if you put in a new TB and a month down the road your Throttle Position Sensor brakes they will probably blame you. Those two items will add 25% air to your car and increase you HP to the wheels by 20. Then add the C&L Tru Flo Pipe and Cold Air Kit (About $400 for both) for another 15 - 20 to the rear whells. Thats 35 - 40 in all without any warrenty issues and you can do it yourself. I will even offer to help you over the phone. Again, there will be other opions out there on this subject and they will all have their merrits. You can find what is best for you and what fits your budget. __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-10-2003, 03:11 PM	#9
GTvert Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: West Plains Posts: 74	Good Luck at the track phly6, just don't get your heart set on 13's.Mid 14's is a more realistic goal.I ran 14.1 my first run in my convertible, and I have been racing for a while.I have since dropped that time to 13.3 with the mods I have.I just got the nitrous, so I'll let you know how that turns out.It all depends on your local dealer what you can and cannot do under warranty.Make friends with your service manager and hit him up to install the parts and warranty it. I have the following mods on a 2001 GT: BBK off-road x-pipe Steeda Underdrives Pro 5.0 Shifter (Highly Recommend) 4:10 gears 2 1/2 inch exhaust with magnaflows Hypertech Power Programmer C&L Cold air induction NX adjustable to 75-150 (not installed yet) __________________ Slower Traffic Keep Right

10-12-2003, 03:54 PM	#10
Phly6 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 43	Wish i had read gtvert's post before i went to the track. First run i got a 16.2 because i missed 2nd Oops! 2nd run i got a 15.5 making sure i hit every gear this time. I was pretty dissapointed at the end of the night though after only getting 2 runs in and bombing them bouth. I do have a question about my shifter though. It's very hard to get through the gears sometimes. I feel like im hitting bumps (gears or synchros i suppose) There is no grinding so i didint feel the need to bring the car back to the dealership before my one month check up. Does anyone think there is something wrong or the car is just getting broken in still. There are 1300 miles on the car at this moment. i am mostly having a problem with 2nd. Usually 1st to 2nd while racing. Any thoughts anyone?

10-12-2003, 09:02 PM	#11
Hammer AKA "Dr. Evil" Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: South Fork Ranch Posts: 1,721	Get an after-market shifter if you don't already have one... (Pro 5.0 or Tri-Ax) Nothing can replace experience at the track. If you're serious, you'll practice your shifting and tree skills at the track. Then you'll see your 1/4 mile time decrease. As far as warranty goes it depends on the dealer. I've had some dealers not touch a thing because of an after-market exhaust, while some are quite mod-friendly. Legally, the warranty should stay in effect unless the damage can be proven that it was linked to the modifications. In the real world, well... How much money and time do you feel like investing in a lawyer? __________________ Uncle Sam "What the hell is up with all the gauges? Calling Captain Kirk, your ride awaits... Phasers on stun...."

10-12-2003, 10:18 PM	#12
Phly6 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 43	whats the pro 5.0 shifter do thats diffrent from mine? is it a closer ratio or a shorter throw? also, if you have any idea off the top of your head, how much would one cost to purchase and have installed?

10-12-2003, 10:49 PM	#13
Hammer AKA "Dr. Evil" Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: South Fork Ranch Posts: 1,721	For details on the Tri-Ax: Go to www.steeda.com Select "Mustang" on the left, select "drivetrain", scroll down and click on "Tri-Ax for TR3650" Here's the price over at www.dallasmustang.com : http://www.dallasmustang.com/index.m...train_Shifters __________________ Uncle Sam "What the hell is up with all the gauges? Calling Captain Kirk, your ride awaits... Phasers on stun...."

10-13-2003, 09:46 AM	#14
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	Here is an excellent write up on the Pro 5.0 shift as well as how to do the install. http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/shift1.htm Also, Mustangworld.com has many other articles that you may find interesting. Just discovered this site today thanks to a replay that I got from another thread. __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-13-2003, 12:16 PM	#15
daveGT Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sarcoxie, MO, USA Posts: 80	My favorite mod ever is my Steeda Tri-ax shifter. No, I mean NO, comparison to the stock shifter!! Now I don't understand why I waited so long. You'll never miss a shift. Damn car practically shifts itself....CLICK, down into second, CLICK up to third... and so on. Awsome piece of equipment. Stock shifter feels like a stick in a box of rocks by comparison. Money well spent. __________________ '99 Cobra Red, stock so far, except for Steeda Tri-ax, Bassani X pipe, Recaro seats, and tint. '94 Lightning: White, stock except 50 series Flowmasters '99 GT (wife's): Chrome yellow, stock with some pretty slick "flame" pinstripes!

10-13-2003, 12:38 PM	#16
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	DaveGT: I still have the stock shifter but am looking to upgrade. How long did it take for you to install yours? or did you have the work done for you? Is so, what did they charge? The leading canidates for shifters seem to be the Steedia and Pro 5 and one from Kirban. They are all in the same price range. Thanks! __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-14-2003, 12:55 PM	#18
daveGT Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Sarcoxie, MO, USA Posts: 80	xxxBlakexxx: As Deuce mentioned, it's pretty simple. If you can follow instructions you'll have no problems. Mine took a little longer because I have to multiply the expected completion by the "David Factor" for every job. The hardest part is removing and replacing all of the trim and stuff without breaking it, for I'm a notorious "overtightener" and I like to use crowbars. __________________ '99 Cobra Red, stock so far, except for Steeda Tri-ax, Bassani X pipe, Recaro seats, and tint. '94 Lightning: White, stock except 50 series Flowmasters '99 GT (wife's): Chrome yellow, stock with some pretty slick "flame" pinstripes!

10-14-2003, 08:32 PM	#19
xxxBlakexxx Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Mountaintop, PA Posts: 634	OK. I am convinced. I am going with the Steedia Tri-Ax shifter. Mustang Tuning sells them new for $149.00 rght now on-sale. Sounded good to me! Can't wait. I love this S__t! __________________ "Children should not get cancer, but they do!" Help a child with cancer at www.homeoftheirown.org My Stang: 2000 Mustang GT Vert - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter; C&L Plenum; BBK 75 mm TB; Steeda Strut Tower Supports; Black "Deep Dish" Bullet Wheels; FRPP 4.10's; Steeda Subframes; SLP Catback & SLP Catted X-Pipe; SCT 4 Position Chip with 3 custom tunes; Steeda CAI; Venom-1000 Nitrous; Roush Stage 3 Body Kit; Bullet Suspension Package (on the way)

10-17-2003, 12:49 PM	#20
Snakeman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Grass Valley, CA, USA Posts: 1,389	hey, about your top speed attempts... try 4th gear to redline; that's the best yer gonna do with limited HP, no way are you gonna pull overdrive to any records... __________________ LX ~vs~ Camaro

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