ok, next question... is it made to fit the 65mm tb?
and what if I upgrade to a 75mm tb.. how will it fit?

the pipe can only be one size, no?

it will fir either one it has a reducer insurt I think it fits up to a 80mm but not sure on that but I know my 70mm firs with no problem

and it fits the stock MAF right??

oh I got a good question for ya... the stock MAF has a screen.. it's pretty tightly weaved, I am sure that its a big restricter!

I'm thinking of taking that screen off there. Shouldnt cause harm since there is an air filter that for sure wont let anything pass through thats large enough for that screen to stop. Why is it there anyhow??

I have taken mine off and had no problems
so people have idle problems without it I would say try it and if the idle doen not start to jump then leave it off if it does put it back on

I don't beleive in these 'cold air kits'. Keep your money or get a C&L Plunum kit.

FYI, I ran 13.7 completly stock - however I did remove the headlight and silencer in front the airfilter.

Try it. I've had really good results.

cold air
 

Go to home depot and buy a flexible rubber hose and run your maf and k&n filter into your fenderwell. Too much heat sitting next to the engine, thats what i did.

That bend into the fender well is what everyone is trying to get away from. It restricts air. The best flowing is a straight (no bends or turns) air inlet duct... therefore.. bending rubber hose into the fender isn't good enough... YES it may give you the cooler air... BUT it restricts air flow. The key is to get BOTH out of the intake system...

The best fix to this that I've heard (and I will be doing it very soon) is to use the stock airbox but cut down the rubber air silencer so that it just barely makes it into the fender well opening. Put a K&N air filter inside your stock box. Remove the screen from the front of the MAF. Run an aftermarket pipe (densecharger) from your MAF to your TB.

In my opinion... the above is the best flowing CAI :)
No proof yet, but I am sure it'll give atleast 8+ rwHP
Now thats cheap and noticeable!

Jess:

Like I said before, this fenderwall vs straight issue will go on FOREVER!!! Take a look at the most recent MM&FF issue. They have been doing a monthly feature on an old, beat stang that they are fixing up as cheaply as possible. With every power change, they are documenting with dyno results.

They bought a cold air kit for about $95 with great power gains. I think they cut a hole in the fender wall and bolted a plate with a hose to it. Check it out.

You were talking about ram air also eithe in this post or another. I don't believe these things work very well unless you are up to speed like 80 mph or something like that.

Have you considered nitrous? You seem like a perfect candidate to me for the power gains that you are looking for.

One of the things that was so great about some of the older 5.0's was the low-end trq. I just don't think you will ever be able to get this from the modular engine no matter what you do, but you can get the engine in the higher rps quicker where it pulls better.

I too have a vert. Consider this, a 4.6 Stang Vert is an easy car to drive FAST and SLOW. What do I mean? Nothing like driving slow on a nice day with the top down...no worries...hearing nothing but the rumble of the exhaust and knowing that the monster can be unleashed whenever you want.

you cant compare the old 5.0 to the new 4.6 there airbox and filter were a bigger restiction as well has having a diff maf so the bend in front of it did not cause the problems thats it does with the 4.6
look at the fastest n/a(bolt on mod motored cars) they all have open filters under the hood now if that does not tell you something then what does
and im talking guys running from 12.5-11.7 with bolt ons no motor work and no power adder

Well this is all that I'm gonna do to this thing...

* Air intake silencer removed/cut **DONE
* Rear firewall lightened
* Comp Cams - Xtreme Energy (mild street/strip)
* Exhaust - Single chamber Flowmaster's (all 3" cat-back)
* K&N filters all around **DONE
* Royal Purple motor, tranny & rear end fluids
* Accufab 75mm TB & Plenum
* Densecharger TB pipe

Should be at about 318 rwHP after all that

* Shorty headers (thoughts on this anyone??? worth it or not?)

I wont be able to run it at the track (being a covertible)
But I'll dyno it :)

I hate to tell you this but there is no way in hell you will come close to 318 rwhp with those parts

at most 265-270

your trippin... the '02 4.6 2v has 265 rwHP stock

I think you should re-look at all that. The comp cam alone adds 20 rwHP!

Intake mods including the densecharger & exhaust together add another 10 hp

Royal purple fluids... 3% rwHP gain

Accufab TB & Plenum.. another gain of 11

add it up dude... not to mention all the other small things

I think you need to relook at the specs again not to be a dick
but the 99-04GT make 260 hp at the flywheel not the rear wheels
when you take into fact the drivetrain takes 15-20%(depending on 5-speed or auto) your looking at 220-230 at the wheeks

now the t/b plenum they dont make 11 rwhp they make about 6
and its a waste of over 200 going with the accufab stuff for 1hp

the fluids may show 1-3hp not percent

and the cams there is no way cams alone on stock heads and stock valve springs and stock header are going to show 20rwhp
most I have ever seen with out a bullit manifold and long tube headers is 10rwhp
so lets add this
up
motor(we will go on the high side) 230
t/b and plenum 7
fluids 5
cams 15
total 257rwhp
and thats going on the high side
plus you will need a chip to get the car to idle with the cams and dyno time to get it all working 10-15
so total 272
now with.....

headers
P&P heads
u/d pullies
meizie elec. water pump
mid pipe (off road)
then you would be looking at 300-315 rwhp
but you will need new injectors and fuel pump to have tthe fuel for that kind of power

Well if all that is true... very very upsetting!
Oh well... just means theres more research to do then.

Looks like I keep getting wrong info from people I talk to. My brother and step dad both work at a blue oval certified dealer, both manage the shop... they told me it's 265 rwHP

Will check with them again. I searched fords website, hey dont post the REAL facts about anything! Sucks.

Thanks man

the only 2v mod motor that came with over 260 crank hp was the bullit and that was 265

some people mistake crank horsepower and horsepower put to the ground as being the same and I wish it was

cause if it was then I would be over 300rwhp on motor and around 425 on spray
but I will have dyno numbers in about 1-2(both just motor abd on a 75 shot and 100 shot) weeks and new track numbers in 3 weeks

you have to take the numbers that the company says a part will make with a grain of salt
put it this way
bill p put down like 260 before cams
and that was with
bullit manifold
longtube headers
off road mid pipe
and most other bolt ons
did cams and put down 280
and that is everything minus P&P heads and going into the motor

afm did a dyno test on a lot of parts
and with every bolt on,cams,P&P heads,mid length headers and a built motor(10.5-1 compr.) they put down 323 to the wheels

I say with everything with a stock short block the most you would see and this is with one hell of a tuner is 325 rwhp

Is HP at the flywheel reffered to as "BHP" ???
Cause my mustang's spec sheet says: "260 bhp & 302ft/lbs"
Break that down for me? :)
Drivetrain takes 20% right?
Meaning I only have about 208 at the rear wheels, yeah??

I wont do heads on her... farthest I'll go into that motor is the cam covers :)

I have another question... you said getting the Accufab tb/plenum combo is a waste of the extra $200 for only 1HP
Well what should I go with then?
I want 75mm

Someone said (I believe it was you explicit) that C&L sucks!
lol

yes bhp is the same as fwhp ,I would with the c&l plenum(it these maf that sucks) and a 75mm of your choice bbk would be the best for the money


and since you have a 5 speed the drivetrain loss is more like 15%
stock with a 5 speed should put down a about 220-230 rwhp bout 275-280 rwtq

Ok I just checked out BBK's website..

The 75mm throttle body for my car says it adds 8 to 15 HP

What exactly does that mean???
rwHP or fwHP??

Another question...

pre '97 mod motor was "non-PI"

Does that mean that 98+ are PI??

and what the heck is "PI" ??

Thanks

99+ are all PI. PI means "Power Induced" I believe. Read the latest MM&FF for a great explanation of the difference between '98's and the '99 motor as well as other years.

Many of the mod (for TB's, plenums etc...) manufacturers when they quote HP, they actually mean rwhp, but they are ALWAYS very optimistic. Also, the amount of gains depends on the type of motor and other mods. For a blown 4.6, sure, just adding a 75 mm TB might get you 10 or even 15 hp over the stock TB. The key is not how much hp a mod adds, but how it works with your other mods AND the mods that you plan for the future.

Increasing your TB to a 70 mm or a 75 mm is a great idea for a place to start especially if you plan future mods. Same goes for a plenum. The bigger pay-offs will be down the road. This is why some of us jumped on you a little for waisting time with a spacer.

If you plan on making big changes to your car over the years, then do things right from the start and follow a logical path. The reason why there is so much used crap on ebay is because so many guys don't take this advice.